Duracoat or Brownell's Gunkote??

No experience with either of those finishes. However, if a non-baked on finish is an option, I've had excellent service and results with Brownells Aluma-Hyde II finishes.

The finish works very well heating the parts with a hand held blow drier after a very thorough degreasing.

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I have never used Gunkote so can't comment on it, but would take the Aluma-Hyde II over Duracoat. It just seems to be a harder finish from what I've seen.

Welcome to the boards Hunter303!
 
Duracote is an air dry option but the two or three day cureing can be speeded up with a hair drier. prep just requires degreaseing no pre heating or vodoo dances. For the price i would vote dura coat.
 
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I have never used Gunkote so can't comment on it, but would take the Aluma-Hyde II over Duracoat. It just seems to be a harder finish from what I've seen.

Welcome to the boards Hunter303!



Thank you, Sir.

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I prefer thermal cured finishes such as KG Gunkote and Norrell's Moly Resin over air cured Duracoat.

Anything thermal cured will be more durable compared to air cured.

If I had to choose between KG or Norrell's, I'd go with KG since the odor isn't as strong as Norrell's.

Norrells
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KG
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I prefer thermal cured finishes such as KG Gunkote and Norrell's Moly Resin over air cured Duracoat.

Anything thermal cured will be more durable compared to air cured.




FWIW, you can use DuraCoat and air cure it or you can heat cure it. It's up to you to decide which you prefer. I do all of my DuraCoat work in the off season and let it air cure for a few weeks. No problems. MI VHNTR
 
Hey guys got a couple of questions.

When spraying duracoat with a HVLP gun, what size fluid tip are you guys using?

Duracoat isn't water based is it?

I've camo'd several synthetic stocks with krylon using a Plastic adheasion promoter & clear coat, and they turn out great. But not so sure on Krylon on my AR.
 
This was done with Duracoat and cured in an oven for over an hour. I had my brother in law disassemble this one for me so I could coat it. After I coated the pieces I could not wait to get it back together so I downloaded a schematic from the interweb and assembled it myself. I had to put it together and take it apart about 10 times to get it back together in the right order. My point is even after all that not scratch in the finish. I am happy with duracoat.

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I had a ss Hart barrel duracoated a few years ago it can be done. I can not comment as to durability as this rifle has never been in the woods goes from the case to the bench only.

arky65
 
Thanks for the info guys, Emailed Lauer and they suggested a .5mm or a .8mm tip. The only tips I've seen that small are for air brush's Most HVLP automotive style guns only go down to a 1.2mm unless you get a touch up gun and then you can get down to 1.0mm. I just can't see putting a base coat down on an entire AR using a air brush. I'd probably go crazy and use it the 223 on my self before i finished.

Don't have a touch up gun now, maybe I'll have to get one. Cant see using Krylon on any metal surface of my guns. And at 17.00 for 4oz, Ill have a hard time playing with a HVLP w/ a 1.3 tip to get it to lay a good coat.
 
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