Duracoat or Cerakote??

Cerakote is much tougher. But limited in colors. Duracoat has a rainbow of colors, but lacks the abrasion resistance of the cerakote.

I prefer Cerkote. I did a lot of research before I sent my rifle in to get it done. The cerakote had higher praises then duracoat. Now...duracoat is a great product, but IMHO, inferior to Cerakote.
 
I am interested in seeing the responses to this as well. Im about to order a tube for Gary Eliseo and trying to figure out what finish to go with.
 
OK, so anyone who has done their own,...how difficult is it to do?? and what was your proceedure?? I have a rifle that has come back "in the white" and needs to be done
 
In my experience, duracoat is just as strong as cerakote, better colors, no oven curing...its just a better, easier product to use. Now if you don't let the duracoat "set-up" and cure for a 30 day period, then you can see scuffing and scratches. They both work great but the only poeple and companies that I see toting the praises of cerekote are the ones that apply it...I could be put in this same boat because I use duracoat, but I did experiment with both products and there isn't a "inferior" one...duracoat is just easier.
 
Originally Posted By: JustC OK, so anyone who has done their own,...how difficult is it to do?? and what was your proceedure?? I have a rifle that has come back "in the white" and needs to be done

Use a good degreaser (tru-strip) and an sos pad. I clean all sufaces with the pad and toothbrush, degrease then spray it all off with air and let dry. Apply product in thin coats with a quailty airbrush or automotive paint gun...give at least 45 minutes inbetween light coats...let cure for 24-48 hrs and reassemble. Remember to keep solvents away from finish for the first month. Good to go.
 
Originally Posted By: bushyIn my experience, duracoat is just as strong as cerakote, better colors, no oven curing...its just a better, easier product to use.
everyone has their preferences, but I respectfully disagree here...
I have used both, and applied both to many of my weapons, and used only air cure for both brands, no need to mix the hardener with cerakote, and I have had multiple instances where my duracoat eroded from gun solvents, this will NOT happen with cerakote, after experience in the field of using both products put to use hard, I use only cerakote now, much more durable and abrasion resistant, as well as chemical resistant, and its easy to apply, simply shake well, pour it into your air brush, and paint.
 
Originally Posted By: skinneyOriginally Posted By: bushyIn my experience, duracoat is just as strong as cerakote, better colors, no oven curing...its just a better, easier product to use.
everyone has their preferences, but I respectfully disagree here...
I have used both, and applied both to many of my weapons, and used only air cure for both brands, no need to mix the hardener with cerakote, and I have had multiple instances where my duracoat eroded from gun solvents, this will NOT happen with cerakote, after experience in the field of using both products put to use hard, I use only cerakote now, much more durable and abrasion resistant, as well as chemical resistant, and its easy to apply, simply shake well, pour it into your air brush, and paint.

I agree 100%. The last rifle I duracoated had to be refinished with cerakote. Anyone who does not believe cerakote is the tougher of the 2 just doesn't know, IMO...
 
What's with the oven cure Duracoat? I just recently saw this product available, seems like it's supposed to be more abrasion resistant than standard duracoat, but still more user friendly than Cerakote (supposedly so... Not entirely certain how, but that's what I hear. IMHO, it's a pretty similar process).
 
I have never sprayed on the air cure Cerakote but have a couple rifles that were done on the air cure. It seems to me that it does not hold up quite as well as the oven cure. Cerakote is pretty easy to use, the mixing of the hardener is not as complicated as some have made it seem to be. I had never used a spray gun when I started. It has taken some trial and error to figure it out. I'll tell you the one thing you don't wanna do, and that is touch any of your products before you bake them. If your shirt brushed them, you accidentally touch them, anything it is very apparent. Best to bake the. For a while pull them back out, re-blast, degrease and spray again.
It is also crucial to have a very brightly lit area when you are applying as it is pretty easy to get thin spots. The brighter colors seem to be harder to get
a nice even coat. The blacks, browns, darker greens tend to be easier to get a really smooth finish.
Cerakote also has quite a few colors if you order through them.
Now these are just my opinions and experiences, by no means am I saying they are the end all be all.
 
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Originally Posted By: 2muchgunOriginally Posted By: skinneyOriginally Posted By: bushyIn my experience, duracoat is just as strong as cerakote, better colors, no oven curing...its just a better, easier product to use.
everyone has their preferences, but I respectfully disagree here...
I have used both, and applied both to many of my weapons, and used only air cure for both brands, no need to mix the hardener with cerakote, and I have had multiple instances where my duracoat eroded from gun solvents, this will NOT happen with cerakote, after experience in the field of using both products put to use hard, I use only cerakote now, much more durable and abrasion resistant, as well as chemical resistant, and its easy to apply, simply shake well, pour it into your air brush, and paint.

I agree 100%. The last rifle I duracoated had to be refinished with cerakote. Anyone who does not believe cerakote is the tougher of the 2 just doesn't know, IMO...

I also believe that the oven cure cerakote is "harder" when cured...however in the air cure department duracoat wins hands down. I did my own little test with fishing lures. I coated one with duracoat and one with air dry cerakote...the cerakote did erode first. I did not do this with oven cure so I am sure that it would outlast duracoat but the extra process is time consuming and makes the whole thing more problematic. I only used oven cure cerakote once and it did turn out beautiful but I feel that the "extra" ends just don't justify the means ( in other words, a bit tougher I can live without). I have had solvents erode duracoat before the 30 day cure period so that is something to be careful of. I use wipeout foam and butches boreshine very often and am careful, but notice no degredation of the duracoat. Just my observations.

BTW, I have many rustoleum jobs that have held up to alot of years and use...duracoat is in my opinion 3 times as strong as rustoleum, cerakote oven cure in my opinion is 3.3 times stronger than rustoleum.
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In my experience, KG and Cerakote bake finishes are much better on metal surfaces than Duracoat. However, DC does well on things that cannot be baked, like stocks.
 
just came in from the spray booth and my AC isn't hooked up down there yet...at 115 degrees here today, I think that my duracoat is oven cured.
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Originally Posted By: VarminterrorWhat's with the oven cure Duracoat? I just recently saw this product available, seems like it's supposed to be more abrasion resistant than standard duracoat, but still more user friendly than Cerakote (supposedly so... Not entirely certain how, but that's what I hear. IMHO, it's a pretty similar process).

Duracoat has a product called DuraHeat. It is NOT an oven cure, however it IS a ceramic based product and will withstand up to 1800 degrees F. It is extremely abrasion resistant and applies as easily as std DuraCoat. We use it on M4 and AK Barrels. Just as with any coating, the secret to a good job is Prep. Nothing short of degreasing and abrasive blasting will give you the very best results. It costs more, but the cure time is shorter than standard DC (7 days). It's available in just a handfull of colors, but I feel it is every bit as durable as ceracoat. Best part is that you can coat ANYTHING with it, as it doesn't need heat to cure it. While 400 degrees may not hurt a rifle, it can destroy a scope or any kind of stock.
 
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