Finshed stove

J

justshoot

New member
stoveopen.jpg

stoveback.jpg

stoveoverview.jpg

I finished the wood stove for my Mobil Camp. Burning off the paint and burning out the inside. 15" X 21" with a 5" pipe. Have a stovejack on its way here to be sewed into the tent wall. Maybe 2 more sections of pipe and a pipe damper. I put a larger handle on than needed, but it stays cool, a clean-out in back, and from the scraps I made a shovel.
 
Looks good. Just one thing, is that a galvanized stove pipe? You need to use the blue steel stove pipe on a wood stove. The fumes from the galvanized metal will make you sick.
 
Originally Posted By: JackindistressLooks good. Just one thing, is that a galvanized stove pipe? You need to use the blue steel stove pipe on a wood stove. The fumes from the galvanized metal will make you sick.

+1... found that out the hard way welding some Galvy pipe... i didnt inhale enough to do serious damage but my eyes and nose didnt like it at all
 
Cook on top, the surface is 16" dia. and the pipe eats up 5", enought for coffee pot and pan to heat up already prepared meals. Thanks for the warning about galvanized pipe. This will be "cooked" before it is put in the tent. The flame I can get out the stack looks like a flame thrower. Finished sewing in the stovejack and I quit sewing on this tent. After Christmas will give it a work out for predator hunting. My Church has kept me busy and will have lots of free time coming up. When you make one, use a cutting wheel on a hand held grinder, this makes a better job than a saw. Also double thickness on the door, the opening you cut out use that scrap piece, cut it down a little for the liner for the inside of the door. Pitman, soon! coyote surprise on toast! Thank all.
 

Justshoot,

Out of curiosity, how difficult is it to sew in the stove jack? Can it be put on most any tent, or does it have to be of a particular material?
 
If you wanted more room on top for cooking you can run the stove pipe out the back side. That will also make it slightly more heat efficient since your heat isn't going straight up into the stove pipe.
 
Nice stove. I would use fire rated wood burning flue pipe. Rather than "furnace duct pipe". Otherwise, your asking for trouble. Oh yeah, hang a smoke detector in your tent as well.
 
justshoot, what made you build it 'standing up', instead of the conventional barrel/cylinder stove way? More, and longer/bigger wood can be burned horizontally, depending on door size.....Bigger cooking area, to boot....

IMG_1292.jpg
 
6mm06, the hard part is man handling all that material on the tent around and into the throat of the machine. Set the tent up and mark with chalk and allow extra material for tucking under seams for a nicer job. The stovejack is a heavy material and should go into like wise med to heavy stuff. The canvas I used is 10 oz, I have sewed them into light canvas and heavy vinyl tents as the Army uses. I don't think the light nylon should be used. A good machine, heavy needle, nylon thread, and double sew everything.
Kirby, thank you for the heads up, this is standard stove pipe, heavy gage, just cheaper than the black pipe. Yea, the duck pipe would have melted at first burn.
Huntsman22, good looking rig, for about 20 years I used normal burn stoves. I went with the up-right to save space. If you have not seen the tent, it is about a page back under "Mobil Camp". And it is only me that ever goes camping in zero weather.
Jaskindistress, I agree with you, I am trying an idea. I have an order to make another stove like this one. The customer wanted to know if using a larger pipe to start off from the stove and then reduce it down, if that larger area pipe would act as a heat exchange. I don't know, so I made it to find out.
 
justshoot, what I'm getting at is "radiant heat" from a non-double or triple walled stove flue.

A friend of mine done the same thing many yrs ago. Used a non-rated fire flue. He caught his garage attic on fire.

Just so happened that day. I was out hunting coyote in his area & stopped by on a whim. To visit him abit. He was out in his attached double garage welding motor mounts. His garage was full of smoke. I could see his wood burner glowing on the far end of the garage. Through the smoke haze.

I told him, I think your garage is on fire. He looked at me oddly, so I went & lifted up the scuttle hatch above the wood burner. The vertical stud members & a few of his rafters were burning. I knocked the fire down with a 5gal bucket of radiator fluid he had drained prior to his welding on his truck.

High radiant heat, although no flame is touching can catch things on fire. As the radiant heat, "heats-up" material to it's ignition temperature = fire
 
Last edited:

Huntsman22,

I have a stove very similar to yours. It's a barrel stove with a flat plate on top. The welding shop at the trade school where I used to work made it. It heats really well. We used it in an old abandoned house that we fixed up for a hunting camp, placed it in a bed room. That stove would run us out at times with too much heat if the draft was kept closed enough.
 
Single wall pipe is fine. Even galvanized....It goes thru a fire-proof stovejack without coming close to canvas. Some of you guys need to get out in the camping world, once in a while. Ya know, see the sights and how the world operates in a rural setting. It might come in handy if ya ever get in a 'survival' sitchy-ation......
 
Back
Top