Framing and drywalling a radius wall

T

Tackdriver

New member
Hello
Well the home remodel proceeds, today converted a 60 inch french door to a 30" six panel door. I had to frame and drywall a 30 inch section and install the pre-hung door.

I still have some sanding and trimming to do but it seems to have gone o.k.

Ok, now for the next part.
I need a wall that instead of having a 90 degree corner, instead has a 2 ft approximate radius.

How do I frame and drywall it?

It bears no load.
 
instead of using a 2x4 top and bottom plate, use two pieces of 3/4 wafer board for each plate and cut your radius. Then stud as usual following the radius.

Score and break the backside (or front side depending on convex or concave radius) of your drywall every couple inches and follow your radius.

tape your slits if convex and float to smooth out the radius and sand sand sand.
 
Quote:

Score and break the backside (or front side depending on convex or concave radius) of your drywall every couple inches and follow your radius.



I use 2 layers of 1/4 inch in a situation like this. No need to score and break. A tight radius you may have to dampen the paper. If so let the first layer dry so you don't trap moisture.
 
For a top and bottom plate the guys around here cut slots every 1/2 inch or so most but far from all the way through a board (2x4 usually, then soak the wood for a little while, then bend ans nail. worked fairly nicely for my house.
 
You didn't bend that one nail bender you hit er on the head.
1/4" 2 layer is the only way to go a little H2O is also helpfull
 
Steel studs and screws are easier to work with. The "face" on them is not as wide, so you don't wind up doing as much mudding and sanding, and you get a more consistent radius.

We used to do a lot of "curve work" commercially, not just radii for columns, etc., but compound "french curve" walls and corners. Sheet rock is a lot more versatile than most folks think, especially using metal framing. You can "bend" up to 1/2" rock fairly easily by putting it in a bath first. The trick is to get it wet enough to be pliable without getting it so wet it falls apart (and use two people to set it).

One other thing you should be aware of. If you are building an outside radius in a high traffic area, it may get bumped into and damaged. Use a harder mud in those areas. Float it on as thickly as you need to and don't worry about it cracking when it dries. Belt or palm sand it and float and sand to fill the cracks as needed.
 
For a stronger joint and better durability, use "hot mud", the joint compound that comes as a powder, and you mix it with water. I usually use 90 minute type, it sets hard in about 90 minutes and you can work with it for about 45 minutes. They make 2 different types, one for the first coat and easy sanding type for the top coat.
kevlars
 


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