Good Trigger Low cost ?

I put a Hyperfire in my dad's 450 the other day and it's a [beeep] fine trigger. Has a hair of Creep then breaks smooth almost like a two stage. Still is no Giessele but for $80Ish you won't beat it
 
I like the LaRue two stage, or the Armalite two stage that you can tune, or for a few more dollars they will sell you a tuned one.
 
I have 3 CMC triggers and they all break cleanly from 2lbs. 8oz. to 2lbs. 12 oz. There are usually sales on them or they come up for sale used sometimes.
 
after getting a chance to spend some time shooting my rifle with the Hyperfire EDT3 trigger I am more than satisfied for less than $90.
 
Originally Posted By: steve garretta RRA varmint trigger which is different from the NM trigger they offer. the varmint trigger is 90% of a $280 geissele

I wouldn't say that. Even with a JP spring kit, it's pretty easy to tell the difference between my RRA Varmint triggers and Geis Hi-Speed Match, in feel and in weight per stage.

With some tuning, the old Bushmaster 2 stage Nat'l Match trigger feels more like a Geis than an RRA does - the RRA is a heavier second stage than first, whereas the bushy's and Geis are heavier in the first stage take up with very light breaks. It's not as clean as a Geis, but with shims, they get pretty close.

With both at 3.5lbs, my Geis Match 2 stagers are 2.5lbs in the first and 1lb in the break, whereas my RRA Varminters are 1 1/4lb take up and 2 1/4lb break.

The RRA Nat'l Match and Varmint Match are great triggers, I use them in a lot of builds, even my own "go-to" coyote and varmint rigs, but they're very different in feel than the Geiselle's.

Is the difference worth $150? Not for a hunting rifle, not to most people. But if a guy wants to drive a Cadillac to work and can afford to do so, far be it from me to call him foolish for doing so (all of my wife's AR's have Geiselles, only three of mine do).
 
Originally Posted By: VarminterrorOriginally Posted By: steve garretta RRA varmint trigger which is different from the NM trigger they offer. the varmint trigger is 90% of a $280 geissele

I wouldn't say that. Even with a JP spring kit, it's pretty easy to tell the difference between my RRA Varmint triggers and Geis Hi-Speed Match, in feel and in weight per stage.

With some tuning, the old Bushmaster 2 stage Nat'l Match trigger feels more like a Geis than an RRA does - the RRA is a heavier second stage than first, whereas the bushy's and Geis are heavier in the first stage take up with very light breaks. It's not as clean as a Geis, but with shims, they get pretty close.

With both at 3.5lbs, my Geis Match 2 stagers are 2.5lbs in the first and 1lb in the break, whereas my RRA Varminters are 1 1/4lb take up and 2 1/4lb break.

The RRA Nat'l Match and Varmint Match are great triggers, I use them in a lot of builds, even my own "go-to" coyote and varmint rigs, but they're very different in feel than the Geiselle's.

Is the difference worth $150? Not for a hunting rifle, not to most people. But if a guy wants to drive a Cadillac to work and can afford to do so, far be it from me to call him foolish for doing so (all of my wife's AR's have Geiselles, only three of mine do).

I did say 90% yes there is a difference I still say its not that much. its 1/4th the price.
 
I like the geissele dmr 2 stage the best but at the lower price ranges the rra 2 stage is a good bet.
 
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I have 4 AR's, all have Jard top adjust triggers with 2lb trigger springs, cost $145.00. Adjustable for pre-travel and let off; crisp no creep.
 
DIY is the cheapest but you better know what you're doing and test it thoroughly. I stoned my trigger and added the set screw mod. Then re-hardened it. It's quite good, but took lots of effort.
 
from what i've read - stoning a trigger is probably the worst idea possible for the average DIY'er. very few people have the equipment (or ability) to properly re-harden a trigger to the correct specs for longevity after that modification.

in addition to that, its VERY very easy to over-stone fire controll parts and ruin them due to removing too much material in the wrong place. there's not a whole ton of sear/trigger engagement in the first place so a couple thousandths too much or change the geometry the wrong way and you can toss your stuff in the recycle bin. removing metal is a whole lot easier than putting it back on. you can very easily end up with a trigger kit that will double, triple or even do mag dumps on you. not only is it a safety issue - but if it were to happen at a public range and the RSO is one of the cranky types and calls the authorities, now you've got a serious issue with the BATFE to deal with for being in posession of a illegal NFA item that will take away your firearms owning ability and majorly dent your pocket in the process! going back to my above statement about rehardening - if done incorrectly (or not at all) you can also have parts that wear on you over time that cause the same issues. like TCS said... unless you REALLY know what you're doing modifying trigger engagement surfaces is probably not worth the risk IMHO.


if someone wanted to go the DIY route, probably the best option that i've seen would be to use a pistol grip set screw to remove some of the travel ( get one from joebobs ) and put in a JP yellow trigger spring (and only the trigger spring)(JoeBob's has that too ) to reduce the trigger pull weight.

its typically recommended to avoid using the yellow JP hammer spring - unless you plan to bob your hammer to reduce the mass. The JP yellow hammer spring is known to not have enough gusto behind it to move a mil spec trigger fast/hard enough for a solid strike and can cause fail to fire issues on (some/many) hard cup nato style primers.

this mod may required threading your pistol grip screw hole the rest of the way through the receiver, but since its already most of the way there, a quick finish with a tap should only take a few mins of your time at most. Even if you have to buy a tap, you're still only going to be at most about $30 into doing these mods.

there's lots of video's on youtube on how to do the trigger adjuster screw mod, here's one to get you started


HTH
 
The Trigger Adjuster + JP Reduced Power Springs are a popular option for a budget trigger. I wouldn't say it makes a GREAT trigger, but it can make a heavy creepy trigger feel a ton better! At the end of the day, its never going to be as good as a Timney or other higher-end trigger with tighter tolerances and improved engineering. However, its also a fraction of the cost.
 
i sure wasnt trying to suggest it could run with anything like a timney, just a budget option for a safe way for a DIY'er to improve a horrible trigger.


ive got a bill springfield trigger that came with my .308 when i bought it. that's essentially a different version of the set screw mod - the rear of the trigger itself it drilled/tapped for the adjustment set screw instead of replacing the pistol grip screw in his case. its also got a bob'ed hammer. i havent figured out if he uses replacement springs (its not JP yellows that's for sure) or just tweaks the mil-spec ones, but it sure beats a factory trigger.
 
I peruse trigger threads specifically to see if Springfield pops up, and then recommend that anyone considering him google "Springfield doubling". He's only cheap until he turns your rifle into a wall hanger and won't refund. I wish i had researched him more before i sent him my trigger. 50/50 odds on his work as a guess.
 
Originally Posted By: NdIndyI peruse trigger threads specifically to see if Springfield pops up, and then recommend that anyone considering him google "Springfield doubling". He's only cheap until he turns your rifle into a wall hanger and won't refund. I wish i had researched him more before i sent him my trigger. 50/50 odds on his work as a guess.

ya i'll never send one out to him. i've read those same articles. as i said mine came in the rifle when i got it and had about ~300 rounds on it when it came into my posession. i've since replaced it with a timney and the "springfield" trigger group rides in a seldom shot lower to keep the round count low on it. it appears i have a good one, but if i even so much get an inkle of a doubling out of it, itll end up in the recycle bin. i wasnt trying to endorse the fella, just found his set screw usage as applicable to the discussion
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Originally Posted By: jimmypafter getting a chance to spend some time shooting my rifle with the Hyperfire EDT3 trigger I am more than satisfied for less than $90.

If you don't mind could you elaborate on the EDT 3. I have been looking at this one and want to know more. Especially how much creep does it have before it breaks?
 
Originally Posted By: VanceOriginally Posted By: jimmypafter getting a chance to spend some time shooting my rifle with the Hyperfire EDT3 trigger I am more than satisfied for less than $90.

If you don't mind could you elaborate on the EDT 3. I have been looking at this one and want to know more. Especially how much creep does it have before it breaks?

I would compare the Hiperfire EDT series of triggers to your mid-range triggers in the $130-$170 range. POF, CMC, etc. Very minimal creep, very positive reset. They have a trigger pull about 4-5lbs so it won't be quite as light as your Hiperfire 24 series triggers, Timney, Jard, etc. However, they're also a fraction of the price.

If you're wanting a decent trigger for generic use that doesn't break the bank then the Hiperfire EDT series is hard to beat. Just don't expect for it to be as nice as say a Hiperfire 24C.
 
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