Got one coming--got some questions

J

jmeddy

Well-known member
Lyman Sonicore Paradox DT 30 for a RAR 243

1. I know to recheck zero, but will it change the POI? Dealer told me no, but I find that hard to believe when adding 13 oz. to the end of the barrel.
2. What do they do to velocity? I will also check this.
3. How do I get the existing thread protector off w/o marring it?
4. Do I use a "tool" to tighten the can in place? Lyman info says it is "self-tightening" after installation.
5. Do they affect group size? One person told me that his groups decreased by ~1/2.
6. How often do they need cleaned and do you disassemble to do so? Lyman info says 1200-1500 shots which seems excessive to me.
**there may be more ? to come but these are off the top of my old head.
Thanks in advance.
 
actually once on sight down the bore (bolt removed of course) looking for the baffles if you see one check the alignment, you should only see barrel twist and daylight.
Usually only do that if a alignment rod isn't available.

" but will it change the POI? Dealer told me no, but I find that hard to believe when adding 13 oz. to the end of the barrel."

---- sometimes, I've had some not shift anything, and actually tighten groups. Honest the group tightening and POI shift I usually pass it off as a barrel harmonics.
I just posted about getting a new rimfire can to go with my other can.
The new one is a Sparrow, no POI at all groups tightened, the OCL Ti 22 which is half the weight close to same length and diameter, My POI shift is almost 2" up. Now could that be baffle construction as they use two differing typs maybe maybe not . It could simply be the weight difference on that barrel. On the other 22 (Win 121 single shot bolt gun) the OCL Ti 22 has only a slight POI shift up 1/2" that barrel is a lot thinner, and again the groups tightened vs with out. (that is measured at 75 yards BTW, not 25 or 50)
 
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jmeddy said:
Lyman Sonicore Paradox DT 30 for a RAR 243

1. I know to recheck zero, but will it change the POI? Dealer told me no, but I find that hard to believe when adding 13 oz. to the end of the barrel.
2. What do they do to velocity? I will also check this.
3. How do I get the existing thread protector off w/o marring it?
4. Do I use a "tool" to tighten the can in place? Lyman info says it is "self-tightening" after installation.
5. Do they affect group size? One person told me that his groups decreased by ~1/2.
6. How often do they need cleaned and do you disassemble to do so? Lyman info says 1200-1500 shots which seems excessive to me.
**there may be more ? to come but these are off the top of my old head.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
1) Yes it will change zero & POI.
2) No big, if any, change in velocity. It will reduce some recoil.
3) I like to use a small piece of rubber cut from a rim strip used on motorcycle spoked rims, & pump pliers. Maybe drizzle a little penetrating oil & add some heat to it if it's too tight.
4) I use a wrench to snug my cans on, no need to go farmer tight, use lube.
5) I tend to see as good, if not better, size of groups with the can.
6) A good rule of thumb is to weigh your new can on a decent scale, then clean when it gains an ounce or two. I can't recall the exact number.
 
Personally I'd Love to hear @jmeddy opinions and thoughts of the Lyman can after he runs it a bit. Itty bit of anti-seize will be your friend to keep it from sticking on the muzzle. I forgot to add this when I responded earlier. Best of luck with your newest purchase.
 
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Sgt_Mike said:
Personally I'd Love to hear @jmeddy opinions and thoughts of the Lyman can after he runs it a bit. Itty bit of anti-seize will be your friend to keep it from sticking on the muzzle friend. I forgot to add this when I responded earlier. Best of luck with your newest purchase.
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I am a great fan of "silver surprise" but have yet to figure out how not to get at least a little of it on me :mad: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:.
I will give a report but have nothing to compare it to.
THAT IS IF I CAN EVER GET THE PROTECTOR CAP OFF MY BARREL-prolly got 5hrs at it and it hasn't budged. It is at this point all scarred up from channel locks biting through the 4 layers of rubber and then leather, so I just went to vise grips. Kroil applied 8 times soaking for hours including overnight, propane torch for 1 min with no movement then 2 minutes and no movement including a couple raps with a dead blow. The guy that put it on is proll ystill laughin!!
 
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Jmeddy. I am hating to hear about your trouble with the thread cap. Now you prolly will have to do a close inspection on the threads of the rifle. Hopefully no rough threads or cross thread which I doubt. BU it would be a real aggravation to have to run a die AKA thread chaser over a barrel.
On the cleaning,, Bore-tech eliminator works good. Get the one for cleaning Carbon. Pdog shooting, after bout 1K ,, I pull the can plug the front hole and spray it good inside. Oops forgot to say put on some throwaway rubber gloves. Cover the barrel end with your hand to seal or you can use a loose glove and tape it. Shake the can drain and repeat a time or two.
Part of all this depends upon your powder. As you know some are dirtier than others. Good luck on that thread protector.
 
Hey... try putting the thread protector in a vice and then use a PIPE wrench to turn the barrel?
...maybe you're tightening the protector more? Righty tighty lefty loosie.
....you're welcome.
šŸ¤£šŸ¤£šŸ¤£

In all seriousness- I've had to soak factory muzzle breaks in a pill bottle filled with Break free for 3 days, then put a heat gun to it for 15 minutes.
Good luck!
 
Have you tried PB blaster?

Also, is it a Ruger American? If so, they are known to put their muzzle devices on SUPER tight. So tight that a lot of times the barrel will unscrew before the muzzle device.
 
Shorter, thicker barrels have less poi shift(can vs no can) in my experience with direct thread suppressors. Record the exact weight when new, base your cleaning by manufacturer recommendation about weight gain from fouling(usually a rimfire use issue). I use copper anti seize(light amount) on threads, one can calls for 25 ft lbs torque. But honestly I just hand tighten, remember cans get very hot(as in skin burning hot) don't check by hand while shooting. My experience, a suppressor usually improves groups. But I develop loads without the can, than check and zero with can.
I thought Ruger thread protector had two flats on them? Then your not clamping on them and making it harder to remove?
 
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spotstalkshoot said:
Could mark opposite sides and use a angle grinder to cut two flats to match open end wench. Put barrel in a padded vice, smack wench with mallet.
Click to expand...
I like that idea!!!!!! It has been soaking overnight in a pill bottle of kroil per limbhangers post and if my neighbor doesn't have a machinist's trick I will be "grinding". I hope there is enough 'meat' as from the look from the front this cap does not look very thick-not near as thick as the one on my Tikka T-1 22 or the Glenfield I had hold of in a local Bass Pro yesterday.
I am going to call Ruger when done with chores this am also.
 
WELL, NO SENSE BEING A DUMMY WITHOUT PROVING IT OCCASIONALLY!
I might be mistaken but swear when I bought this gun in Mar. '24 the Ruger website said it was threaded. Since that page is "no longer available" I can't prove it or be sure but was told by Ruger today that it IS NOT!!!
So now the decision is to pay to get the boogered end of this threaded or cut off and crowned and sell it then buy another that is suppressor ready. Barrel already has almost 400 rounds of Varget rounds through it and the last RAR I had started losing accuracy at just over 750 with Varget down the tube.
OR see if I can get a refund on the can.
Embarrassed and extremely pi**ed doesn't come close to describing me right now.
 
I never considered option #7 in your 1st post, "Is this thing threaded?

Please excuse my uncontrolled smiling.....šŸ˜

Not sure how far up the barrel you have it tattooed, but you're half way there to getting it threaded now, might as well go all the way.
 
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