gun safe trouble

bubbak45

New member
Have a Heritage safe 5 yrs old, the electronic lock has failed whats your opinion should I convert it to a dial lock, would it be more servicable than a key pad type, I have the option to repair the keypad or replace with a dial lock at same cost /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
 
A dial is harder to get through should someone try. I saw a show where they were able to dust the fingerprints on a keypad and open the safe.
 
I'll take manual over electronic/digital any time.
But then I'm old and don't accept change very well, so don't go by me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Seriuosly, mine has a dial that's been trouble free for 25+ years, and It's not a top of the line safe.
You shouldn't have to replace a lock after only 5 years. Another reason to do with a mechanical lock.

Good Luck
 
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Well, after having worked on computers for several years, I can certainly assure you that the internal METAL workings of a manual lock will far outlast the CONTACTS in any electronic keypad. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
+1
Quote:
I'll take manual over electronic/digital any time.



My preference is just based on simple logic... Mechanicals work the same way every time, provided simple dry lubrication is maintained..

Electronics are too dependent on more factors to insure dependability and function.
 
The manual surly is more bulletproof than the electronic, but I sure like the electronic LaGard Basic that came on my Cannon safe. I just did the first battery replacement and that's after five years of use.

If it costs the same pick the one you would feel more comfortable with.
 
Hi Bubbak45,
I open and repair safes and vaults every day, and have been doing it for almost 20 years now.I personally installed the first six S&G 6120 electronic locks that Sargent and Greenleaf released from their factory in Kuntucky back in 1993. As far as I am concerned, stick with the mechanical locks. You will have far less trouble with them. When an electronic lock fails, and it is not if, but when, there is almost nothing you can do to repait it. You will have to rep[lace it. They cost upwards of $300.00. The mechanical locks, ie S&G 6730 is less than half that ammount, and I work on some in Washington DC every week that are over 100 years old and still working fine. Have it serviced by a competant safe technician about every two years, and it will out last you, your kids, and your grandkids. The most common electronic locks you will find on a gun safe is the S&G 6120, the Lagarr 33E, and the Amsec ESL 10. I have less trouble with the ESL 10 and the Lagard locks. If I have to drill one out that has failed open, it usually requires more that one hole, and about an hour or two labor. You could easily spend five or six hundred dollars to open your safe, and repairing the door is extra. The repair never look as good as it should, because the paint job is very hard to match. I opened a 6120 this morning that failed for no reason that I could fine, and this is the second time in two years that I have opened this very safe. The first time the job went over six hundred dollars, and this mornings ticket was $534.00 THey replaced the lock with a 6730 mechanical fron Sargent and Greenleaf. If a mechanical lock fails, all the drilling is done under the dial, so when the door is patched and a new lock is installed, it looks like it did when it leaves the factory.
In my opinion, run, don't walk from the electronic locks. If you want some more information, you can e-mail me at Willeys622000@yahoo.com
Good luck,
John
 
Yes, that was some good info Safecracker.

Have a question?
My two safes have Medco locks, what's the durability of these locks? Like, are they a secure lock?

Thanks
 
Thanks for the info. I am getting ready to buy a second safe and WAS considering an electronic. My first one is manual and for 10 years, no problems.

THX! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif












m
 
When I made my decision the safe builder gave me a scenario something like the following...It's the perfect morning, the wind is just right, and your buddy is waiting in his truck in the driveway. You go to you safe to get your gun out and the battery is dead.

I quickly made the decision to go with the dial. I have never had a regret.

GrouseSetter
 
Coyote Control
Medeco locks are about the best thing out there as far as a key type lock goes. They are a pain in the arse to get extra keys for though. Some retailers have their own keyway, that being the groves on the sides of the key, that they buy from Medeco. In those instances you have to go back to that retailer to get extra keys made. No one else can buy that key pattern, and that keeps you locked into dealing with that retailer. That also lets him set his prices to anyplace he wants to set them to. The company I work for charges up to $15.00 per key! That is the down side. The up side is that they are almost compleatly pick proof. The pins inside them all have to be lifted to a common shear line. This is done by the cuts in the key raising the pins to the top of the plug, or the small circular part with the key hole in it. They also have to have a rotation match at the same time. Look at the cuts in the key and you will see that they are cut on angles that shift right, center and left. Another way they are protected, is that at the top of the key hole, there are two hardned pins on either side of where the key goes into the lock. If one was to try to drill out the key hole, their bit would break off in the lock, and now you have to deal with that little problem. You have also just wreaked the cylinder, because now you can't get the key into the hole. They are VERY good locks indeed. I have Medeco's deadbolt locks on my home. Wouldn't have any other lock at any price. They should last for many many years on a safe, and give you no trouble in you lube them about once a year. THere used to be a product on the markey that was perfect for Medeco products. It was a dry spray lube called Poxy Lube. I haven't seen the stuff in years, but it was the best. You could use WD-40, but after about six months, the cylinder will get gummed up and you will have to spray them again. For what it's worth, I use WD-40 on my deadbolts. It won't hurt anything, it's just a little messy.
Good luck.
John
 
wow, safecracker, good to see all the info I had a local locksmith tell me basiclly the same as you but am really happy with your info, and just for info I had yesterday made the decision to have a mechanical lock installed, again THANXs, it's mechanical all the way for me !!
 


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