H.S turkey choke with #4 buck???

Jonathan

Jonathan

New member
I am shooting a 12ga beretta extrema 2 and I am planing to use #4 buck 3.5" tomorrow for yotel muts it is only 0.007" tighter then my factory full but it is ported and extended and I am hopeing that it will patteren better as the choke constriction
will be over a longer length?!?!? any one try them or any turkey choke with #4 buck?

as a side note it paterened great with BB shot out to 55-60yrds .......I just didn't have time or the ammo to try the #4Buck.


thanks in advanced Jonathan /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowingsmilie.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
 
I can't help you with that specific choke, but I have shot #4 buck out of tight choked 12ga's and, generally, they didn't pattern worth a darn. With standard chokes, normally either a light mod, mod, or imp. mod will work the best, depending on the gun and load, of course. I got good patterns out of a Rem. 11-87 with their Xfull (.685") choke using 4Buck, but that was the only tight choke that worked for me. The Pattern Master seems to work well for many shooters using buck shot, although, performance varies. I got good patterns with 00 buck, but not with 4buck in my 11-87. A friend with a SBE gets good patterns with one shooting 4 buck. My 10ga. doesn't get good patterns using a PM with 4 buck, but does with a .705" Terror choke.

You just need to try it with a few shots and see how it performs. It may surprise you ...... with how well or with how poorly it does.

Try to use Federal Premium buck shot loads as they seem to pattern the best out of most guns I have seen. Cheaper loads, with soft shot just don't pattern nearly as well.
 
Quote:
I am shooting a 12ga beretta extrema 2 and I am planing to use #4 buck 3.5" tomorrow for yotel muts it is only 0.007" tighter then my factory full but it is ported and extended and I am hopeing that it will patteren better as the choke constriction
will be over a longer length?!?!? any one try them or any turkey choke with #4 buck?

as a side note it paterened great with BB shot out to 55-60yrds .......I just didn't have time or the ammo to try the #4Buck.



YOu shot BB size steel shot of out a full or x full choke. You must be ready to throw that thing away. I called Benelli a couple of years ago about my SBE and they said nothing tighter than mod for steel shot. It causes to much back pressure and will kill your gun quick. I bought a Pure gold buckshot choke for my shotgun and its around 696 light full but is specially heat treated and built to release pressure. Buckshot is buckshot not matter is its no. 4 or 00. I would NOT try to shoot it out of a turkey choke EVER. When we use to run dogs we used modifed chokes it holds a lot better patterns then fuller chokes some people even like IC. It sounds crazy but we patterned 5 or so different times and the fuller choke was always worse. If your gun takes a mobile choke or optima choke systems I know where you can get a Buckshot extended choke cheaply.....
 
This has been discussed a ton over the years here. Many, if not most, very accomplished and experienced coyote hunters use turkey chokes. Some as tight as .660" and number Four Buck and to very good effect. If you'll run a search with the key words "shotgun", "choke", or "buckshot" you'll get a ton of info.
 
To solely focus on the tightest possible pattern is much less important hunting coyotes than it is with small, more stationary targets like turkeys' heads or bullseyes. I've missed more coyotes running full speed between me and the caller with super tight chokes than I ever did with a more open choke at longer ranges. Most of the time, good aim and lead are more important than a tight spread anyway. We'd all like to think we've got a perfect swing, lead, and sight picture, but most of the time, that just isn't true. Pattern it so you know exactly where it shoots, but use a more open choke and let those pellets spread out a bit. It only takes a few good hits or one in the head to knock a coyote flat.

I shoot the same gun and ammo as you now and then (3.5 #4 in an Xtrema 2 though mine's pretty new) and already I prefer the stock modified or full choke over the choke you mentioned. Extended chokes are nice because they protect the muzzle, but ported chokes just mean more noise and blast to give away your position and wreck your hearing. The Xtrema already has a noisy action and throws those bright red hulls all over. You don't hear about a lot of guys taking doubles or triples on turkeys, but you sure do with coyotes, and when they come in they're a lot more likely to be running 15 MPH. Extra full and super full on a coyote aren't needed most of the time.

Did you put a Tru-Glo rear sight on your shotgun yet? If you didn't, get one.
 


I say no. two reasons. With tight choke, and big shot the constriction of the choke deformes(flattens) the outside of those shot rubbing the bore. This makes them very un-aerodynic and they immediatly become flyer, or that is to say they immediatly start away from the shot column at the moment of bore exit.

big lead in a small choke is just a littole hard on things as well.

I use 2/3/4" 000 buck in a no choke (cyl.) or at best improved cyl. why? well 2 3/4" 000 loads are higher velocity than 3" -that help with running shots and shooting through brush/weeds. Also if I recall correctly, a "000" buck shot is about the same diameter as a 9mm handgun slug, but moving faster. So shooting a dose of 000 buck, no clchoke is effectivly the same as 8 guys with 8 9mm handguns unloading on the yote at the same time. Gives far better chances of a vital hit/knock down- especailly with a running shot and or through weeds. Be careful of your back stop though. 000 buck packs a punch way down range.

If you still want to go with #4 buck, nothing wrong there except shortened range, experiment with improved cyl. choke, modified choke , and if you can get your hands on one, improved mod. One of those three will give you the best 50 yard pattern.
 
The problem with making any recommendations on choke/load usage is that there is so many variables with respect to the guns, chokes and loads, that to change even one can make the results very different than what we experienced.

That's why you can get recommendations which seem all over the place in terms of choke/load suitability. That doesn't come from one or another poster being inexperienced, but from their experiences with the equipment they have used being different.

Ultimately, we all need to do our own patterning with the chokes and loads we have available to us. And, not rely solely on the recommendations of others who use equipment that may vary slightly from our own. Because those variations may produce markedly different results on the pattern board, possibly good or bad.
 
For #4 Buck you would be better served with a more open choke IMHO if yopu get a good pattern with BB at those ranges, maybe you ought to think about staying with BB? Just call em in closer. I personally like #4 in a Mod cyl or improved cyl choke. They still pattern good out to sixty yards or better depending on the gun
 
I like the BB idea too. They work just fine in a 10 ga and are about the only lead ammo available for it. I think he switched to #4 buckshot because it was 3.5", and no one makes 3.5" lead BB ammo. Once in a while you can find Hevi-shot BB, but it costs almost triple the price of lead buckshot.
 
Thanks to all for your posts,I admitintly have to agree with the fact that I should have patterened them before the hunt but I did have 2 of the BB loads to back the #4 up!

I also do have a 10ga browning gold and have flattened alot of
stuff with it...seams that my Dad has takin a likeing to it and is using it for geese.

I reload for the 3.5 10ga and have done alot of patterening with it, But as of yet I do not have a 3.5 12 ga loader and I am oppen to any info or reconmondations that you all have!
 
If you have the 2 3/4"/3" MEC Sizemaster, or SteelMaster, you can load 3.5" shells on it without a conversion kit. It is a bit involved as you have to resize/deprime and reprime all the 3.5" cases with the press adjusted for 3" cases. Then, after you have done that to all your empties, you can move the post up 1/2" and do the balance of the loading. It's not the most efficient way of loading if you are sizing/depriming small batches of cases. I didn't think you could do that, but a friend has just that set up and that's how he loaded his 3.5" 12ga. hulls.

If you have the 600Jr., you could probably do the same, except for the sizing, which would have to be done on a Supersizer. And, you would have to remove the sizing die, leaving only the depriming post. That's how I size and deprime my 10ga. hulls, anyway.
 
Thanks CDR I have a size master and I will look into it
I also have a jr600 so maybe I can do a split opperation on it
and the size master!
I will most likely only use it for limeted amounts of specialty loads like lead BB and duplex 4/7.5 for crows!

Thanks again
 
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