has anyone ever threaded their barrel themselves

N_Georgia

N_Georgia

New member
Midway sell a die and an alinement tool to thread your barrel for a muzzle brake. I have used dies for many other project but don't know if I want to do my barrel.
 
It's best done on a lathe. Are you talking about threading the end of a barrel for a muzzle brake, that's what it sounds like. If so check out the stuff Brownell's sells for doing that. It's not so expensive to have a machine shop do this in a lathe compared to buying the dies.

Threading a barrel blank for an action needs a lathe.
 
I talked to d-tech about sending my barrel to him and having him install one of his integral compensators, not expensive at all if I can remember, that might be a better route for you. I know just to thread a barrel a gunsmith normally doesn't charge but $50.
 
I drilled and pinned a muzzle brake on a Mini-14, and that barrel steel was very tough. We ended up using a carbide end mill in the Bridgeport. If you get the die started the least bit crooked, it's going to be obvious. If it were me, I'd skip the muzzle brake and send it to D-Tech for one of his compensators, too. It will be shorter, quieter, more effective and come out right.
Good luck if you try it yourself. Make sure you're aligned before you start cutting threads, use cutting oil, and have everything locked down in a vise, because I'll bet ti's going to take some major torque. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I looked at Midway. It's $41 for the die and alignment tool (which you insert in the bore), plus the die is round, so you'll need a big die handle. Putting a steel rod into the bore of my rifle would be something I would avoid.
When you add up all the costs and risks, the machine shop route looks pretty good to me, and the D-Tech route is still the way I would go (unless you know a local machinist with a lathe available).
 
I am a machinist and I would personally send it to D-Tech or another shop that is setup to do it. These guys are right about figuring the cost of the parts to do it and the cost of the risks involved. I usually do all of my work myself but there are times when someone else's knowledge, experience and setup is well worth the price. Some will also say that if you buy the die and the alignment tool then you will have it. But in all honosty how often will actually use it. It's not like guys will be knocking down your door to have you do their custom jobs with it. Just my opinion as always.
 
I too am a machinist and do all my own work. But Hitman has said best, you are better off sending it off to an accomplished smith.

Because one screw up and you get this /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif and then this /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angry-smiley-055.gif and then $$$$$ to fix your screw up. Good luck with what ever you do. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
What is the od of your barrel? what is the id of the break? the end you want to screw on to your barrel? You weill have to hog down the OD of the barrel some way to the ID of the break before threading For instance I have a David Gentry Break is OD is .836 the ID is 5/8" - 28 TPI. It is for a .458 bore. I am getting a barrel made in .458 Socom the machinist is going to leave the chambered end at 1" turn down the portion under the gas block to .930 then taper the part infront of the Gas block to .836 turning the muzzel end back 1/2"to 5/8"or .625" and threading it 28 TPI. That will be going on my next big bore brush gun. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
If the muzzel end of your barrel is the ID of the break then the break will have a larger OD then your barrel, see what I mean?
 
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