Head Space Gauges

G

GLMyers

New member
I read a post by a gentleman that was having some trouble with case head separation on his 25-06. I've recently run into the same problem with my 300 Win Mag. Back in the 70's before I took up archery, I was reloading the 300 and had no problems. Then I got into archery and all my rifles took a long rest. When I returned to elk hunting with my 300, I tossed all the 300 ammo I had loaded. The loads were 30 plus yrs old. Most if it was 165gr Sierra BTHP and they shot sub 1 min groups back about the time dirt was discovered. I was loading the brass, both Rem and Win, with IMR 4831 and they were about max loads. Things weren't real technical with my reloading back then but I do recall using the FL resizing die to just neck size the brass. Again, I had no problems.

Recently, I began working on a 180 gr load for the 300 using once fired Win brass. I think my problem is that I full length resized the brass and the shoulder was pushed back. I didn't notice the shinny ring on the case then but now after running into actual case separation, there is the tail tail sign of a rough shinny ring. That was after only three firings, two of which were full length resized.
I bought a neck sizing die so now I'll try just sizing the necks and see how that works out.

I want to buy a gauge to measure the actual chamber. Stoney Point has gauges to measure the cases and RCBS has one they say will measure the chamber. My question to the group is: What gauge will fill my needs? Are they accurate and do they give repeatable readings? Any suggestions/comments?

I go the extra mile with all my cases. They are always clean (inside and out) and trimmed. The powder loads are near the middle of the range and the OAL is the recommended length (3.34").
 
I have used the Stony Point tool for quite a while. With careful measuring it is repeatable. You must hold the calipers up to a light and make sure the case head is square. Repeated measuring is required when setting the die, but once done all is good. I load on a Forster so one setup is all that is required. When dealing with a threaded press and .001-.003 I feel that the same process would be required each time the die is put into the press.
 
Just size you case so they headspace of the shoulder and not that stupid belt on the case and this will solve your problem.
 
hello...i use the stoney point guage's...as hairtrigger mentioned you must hold your case up to a bright light to be sure everything is flush for an accurate measurement...i'm sure there are better tool's out there...at least these tell you where you are...i have learned without some type of headspace gauge you are only guessing as to how you are resizing your brass...they are simple to use & as mentioned require a bit of tinkering with your resizing die initially...then it's only a matter of rechecking thing's...good luck !!
 
Quote:

Things weren't real technical with my reloading back then but I do recall using the FL resizing die to just neck size the brass. Again, I had no problems.

I bought a neck sizing die so now I'll try just sizing the necks and see how that works out.



Problem with neck sizing dies (whether belted case or not)is that the case body will stretch and in two or three firings will be a bit hard to chamber.

Your old method of setting the full length die to "partially full length size the case" works better IMHO.

With either the RCBS or Stoney Point you simply measure a case which has been once fired in your rifle and then set the die to provide about .003" more headspace than the once fired case. Ammo sized in this manner will not give you chambering problems at the worst possible time.

Regards,
hm
 
if you're looking to measure to the lands on loaded ammo.

A black magic marker is the easiest way to do it, plus economical and you don't need 3 hands to work it.
 


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