HELP! How to re-zero a scope???

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burris

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I have a Burris Signature Series 6-24X50 with target turrets that I had on a previous rifle and am now going to mount it on a new rifle. Does anyone know how I can take the previsouly sighted in scope and bring it back to zero. I am concerned that if I cannot figure it out I could run out of elevation or windage adjustments. I went to the Burris website and it was very little help. Thanks for the help!

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Do you mean recenter it as if it was new out of the box?

Just count the clicks from one stop to the other and divide in half, move it back that much.
 
Originally Posted By: FurhunterDo you mean recenter it as if it was new out of the box?

Just count the clicks from one stop to the other and divide in half, move it back that much.

Geeze, its been a long day. Thats simple enough. Yes, I am trying to get it back to factory settings (NIB). Thanks!
 
Why not just mount it up on the new rifle and bore site it? Then you will be within a few shots of being sited in for that rifle and whatever load you have chosen.
 
Originally Posted By: Ricky BobbyWhy not just mount it up on the new rifle and bore site it? Then you will be within a few shots of being sited in for that rifle and whatever load you have chosen.



Well... He could do that but If he starts from center and used a bore sighter he could tell if he needed to move a windage adjustable base to center the scope one way or the other. This saves the OP another problem thread titled " not enough adjustment in my scope" He could also use the signature rings to take advantage of most of the verticle adjustment in the scope. Which is easier when the scope is centered in its adjustment. It's just easier to use center as a baseline when mounting scopes.

Those older Burris sig scopes were real nice. I had a 6-18 x whatever and the glass was real good. If Burris still made quality scopes like those older ones, I might still be buying them.
 
Originally Posted By: FurhunterOriginally Posted By: Ricky BobbyWhy not just mount it up on the new rifle and bore site it? Then you will be within a few shots of being sited in for that rifle and whatever load you have chosen.



Well... He could do that but If he starts from center and used a bore sighter he could tell if he needed to move a windage adjustable base to center the scope one way or the other. This saves the OP another problem thread titled " not enough adjustment in my scope" He could also use the signature rings to take advantage of most of the verticle adjustment in the scope. Which is easier when the scope is centered in its adjustment. It's just easier to use center as a baseline when mounting scopes.

Those older Burris sig scopes were real nice. I had a 6-18 x whatever and the glass was real good. If Burris still made quality scopes like those older ones, I might still be buying them.

Yes, the older Signature scopes were great. I have several Leupolds VariXIII and a few Ziess, and this Burris smokes them all, I just cannot get ride of it. Its clearer than any scope I have ever owned.
 
I remember something about standing the scope on a mirror objective down. While looking through eyepiece you would see two sets of crosshairs in the reflection of the mirror. You would then adjust the windage and elevation until you saw only one set of crosshairs. I never tried this, maybe someone else will also remember reading about doing that.
 
Originally Posted By: burrisOriginally Posted By: FurhunterOriginally Posted By: Ricky BobbyWhy not just mount it up on the new rifle and bore site it? Then you will be within a few shots of being sited in for that rifle and whatever load you have chosen.



Well... He could do that but If he starts from center and used a bore sighter he could tell if he needed to move a windage adjustable base to center the scope one way or the other. This saves the OP another problem thread titled " not enough adjustment in my scope" He could also use the signature rings to take advantage of most of the verticle adjustment in the scope. Which is easier when the scope is centered in its adjustment. It's just easier to use center as a baseline when mounting scopes.

Those older Burris sig scopes were real nice. I had a 6-18 x whatever and the glass was real good. If Burris still made quality scopes like those older ones, I might still be buying them.

Yes, the older Signature scopes were great. I have several Leupolds VariXIII and a few Ziess, and this Burris smokes them all, I just cannot get ride of it. Its clearer than any scope I have ever owned.

Well........ I wouldnt go as far as saying its better than the Zeiss
 
Originally Posted By: who meI remember something about standing the scope on a mirror objective down. While looking through eyepiece you would see two sets of crosshairs in the reflection of the mirror. You would then adjust the windage and elevation until you saw only one set of crosshairs. I never tried this, maybe someone else will also remember reading about doing that.

+1 tried mounting it and dialing it and ran out of adjustment, used the mirror got me back to "center" or what is called mechanical zero.
 
You could max out your elevation nob in the up or down position and then count the clicks to the opposite (up or down) and then divide it in half. So if you have 50 clicks to get from bottom to top you would divide it in half and then turn it 25 times and you should be centered. Same goes for windage. This is how I have always done it for both scopes and open sights.
 
Originally Posted By: Warboar_21You could max out your elevation nob in the up or down position and then count the clicks to the opposite (up or down) and then divide it in half. So if you have 50 clicks to get from bottom to top you would divide it in half and then turn it 25 times and you should be centered. Same goes for windage. This is how I have always done it for both scopes and open sights.

Isn't that exactly what Furhunter said in the very first reply?

Never heard of that mirror trick. Pretty cool if it works.
 
Use the mirror and after you get the reticle centered, loosely mount it on the rifle and then bore sight it to see how close your rings/mounts are holding it to what you are seeing through your bore...

The more centered you can keep the reticle on a mounted scope the better...I've done this with all my rifles/scopes and get extremely good accuracy and it seems to make cranking the turrets more consistent when returning to the initial settings..
 
Originally Posted By: deaddogwalkinRpete, I have tried the mirror trick and It works good.

I'll be darned.
I've always just counted the clicks and split em.
Learn something new every day, eah?
 
Here's another trick for scopes.... if you don't know it already.

Low end scopes that won't easily adjust for the amount you desire... need to have both turrets turned FULLY all the way in and out a couple of times to loosen up the grease inside. Then they will adjust for minor click adjustments.

You should do it on all scopes... cheapo's or not.

You won't have to adjust a few clicks and tap on the scope anymore.


Ps... that is a good site... it's now in my favorites... thanks
 
Okay, so first I counted the number of 1/8" clicks for both evevaltion and windage and divided in half and rolled back that many to "zero". Then I followed the instructions using the mirror and could'nt get the two sets of crosshairs even close before I ran out of windage.

With this scope one click 1/8" at 100YDS. I have a total of 210 clicks for elevation and 230 clicks for windage. Soooo...when I divided that in half that gave me a center of 105 clicks for elevation and 115 clicks for windage.

At "center" that allows a maximum adjustment of 13 1/8" of total agjustment up or down for elevation and a maximum adjustment of 14 3/8" of adjustment for left to right for windage. That just doesnt seem correct to me. I must be missing the boat somewhere on this.

If I zero at 100yds. and am shooting at a target at, say, 400yds, I would more than likely be way past my boundries with this particular scope...correct?

The scope was taken off my 25-06, and will be mounted on my CZ 17 Remington.
 
Originally Posted By: stuart_hayes Originally Posted By: who meI remember something about standing the scope on a mirror objective down. While looking through eyepiece you would see two sets of crosshairs in the reflection of the mirror. You would then adjust the windage and elevation until you saw only one set of crosshairs. I never tried this, maybe someone else will also remember reading about doing that.

+1 tried mounting it and dialing it and ran out of adjustment, used the mirror got me back to "center" or what is called mechanical zero.

Above is one way of doing it...and it can be called "mechanical zero" but it is more accurate to call it "optical zero." Mechanical zero is talked about further back in this string when the gentlemen suggested turning the turrets while counting and then split the difference. All things being perfect both the "mechanical" and the "optical" zero should be one in the same. But, they rarely are. Another way to find optical zero is to place the scope in two vee blocks and spin it while adjusting the turrets so that eventually when spun the reticle center remains centered on a fixed spot as opposed to rotating in orbit around the fixed spot. The significance of being optically zeroed is that you can then do as much as possible zeroing bullet impact with shims for elevation and {one way} Redfield style bases, i. e., to ideally have bullet impact and as close to perfect optical zero as possible. This insures as much light as possible is centered between the eyepiece and objective lenses for the best view/light gathering the scope can possibly have. Maybe a better way to explain it is that the scope is adjusted not by moving the actual crosshairs but by moving a "washer" around in the tube with a smaller opening. If you think of the light entering the scope as water sprayed out of a hose imagine the difference between that water sprayed straight thru a pipe or sprayed thru a pipe with an offset washer in the middle. More light for a better view gets thru a scope that is optically centered.
 


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