High Rack Advice

Powerstroke99

Powerstroke99

New member
I am building a high rack with a 6'x8 platform. I plan to have 3 seats, with the center one higher than the others for the scanner. I would like to be able to move the front and rear seats to 3 positions-- left of center, center and right of center.

I can't decide between expanded metal or plywood for the flooring. Anyone have any innovative ideas for mounting my seats? How far should the seats be from the rail? Would 42" be an acceptable height for the rail?

I apologize for so many questions, but I plan to pick up supplies tomorrow and hit this project hard this weekend. Also. Any pictures you are willing to share would be great.

Thanks, PS99
 
I have plywood floor covered with carpet but I just use fold out chairs, so that they can be moved to fit each shooter. Mine is also 6x8.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BobbyHI have plywood floor covered with carpet but I just use fold out chairs, so that they can be moved to fit each shooter. Mine is also 6x8.

BobbyH-- how high are your sides? My son and I did some measuring tonight and we think 38 inches will work for us when using a chair height of 18 inches. Also, what kind of wind resistance do you get with plywood in the front? I have a friend that is trying to convince me to leave the front open. Thanks for the pic!
 
If I remember right they are 36", with a 2x6 top trail for a good shooting platform. I have a storage box in the back left corner that doubles as a raised platform for whoever is running the spotlight. The resistance with the front is terrible, since this pic I have redone the front. It now has 2 pieces that come out for transport and then just slide in when you get to wherever your going to hunt.

 
Last edited:
I didn't want something real tall, heavy, and noticeable going down the road, so I built what I call "The Low Rack." It actually works really well! Shooter has 360 field of fire. and the light man can stand on the tool boxes on either side of him just depending on how the stand works out. I aslo have a "box" I can put in there to stand in the bed as well, just whatever floats your boat.

As far as dimensions go my seat is a boat seat on a home built stand, height is 20". The rail is at 41", but to be honest it would be better at 42" or possibly 43" if you are or hunt with big fellas. Rail flips up and down for access if needed, but I usually just crawl under.



 
Neither expanded metal or plywood. What if you drop something? The stand may be and is probably over. Use a sheet of expanded but then lay rubber over it. Old astro turf is great for this.
 
I would suggest that you have rotating seats.. I like the 2" pipe, with a 2.25 overlay with a 2" bearing in the top of the overlay cap to make it easy to swivel.

I would make the lower seat have an adjustable shooting stick mounted to the seat,infront of it so that no matter which way it's facing you have a shooting rest. I also suggest a small bass fishing seat for the light man. The idea is that no matter where the eye's are coming from you can swivel as a group and not have to move, just rotate. I have also seen something like this on a pivot for transport, and allow a pin to be removed and set to hold it up.

One thing i would suggest thinking about is covering the lights of the vehicle.
I was out a few weeks ago running some tests to try out different things. We called with the truck not covered and then again with it fully covered in camo. It was clear and definate that covering the lights made a difference, they came closer and more readily, even with white light.
You can take some old camo, or just some thicker fabric and glue some fridge magnets to it and then when hunting cover the lights. (I did this because if you walk away from the truck at night and look back you see the lights reflect, so why wouldn't the coyotes see that?
 
Last edited:
That is very interesting about covering the lights Tbone, hadn't thought of fabric with magnets, would be quick and easy.

My next step is going to be to spray the expanded metal floor of the calling rack and the top of my toolboxes with bed liner to dampen sound. The expanded metal floor of mine has several cross braces and is welded down real well so it it pretty quiet anyways, but I figure the bedliner will help on those just in cases scenarios.

Another thing, IMO the Halo Shield from Boondocks is worth it's weight in gold. It helps a ton keeping glare off the truck/shooter.
 
Good point about the halo shield on the light. I was noticing that i need the same thing.

Welded down Expanded metal and a swiveling seat the is dry lubed should be quiet enough. I use the call to mask any noise I make.

I also found it more helpful to open the beam as wide as possible right before the shooting happens. Reason being is that once the shooting starts, if they don't drop,(my friend was using SP bullets) Once they are hit, and start running the narrow beams are hard to keep on a running dodging coyote. It's hard to find a dead coyote that runs off in the light, and really hard in the night if you are not sure where they ran off toward.
 
Things are progressing well. I changed my plan and went with a 4x8, expanded metal flooring which I am going to cover with outdoor carpeting, and a 38" shooting rail.

All I have to do is fabricate the seat mounts, access ladder and attach the sheet metal to the sides and it will be huntable. There will be other things to do like gunracks and wiring for lights, but that is the easy part.

I will have to give covering the truck lights some thought.

I will post some pics later (can't do it from this computer).

Thanks for all your suggestions.
 
I run a Lightforce 170 with dimmer and Halo shield, I really like that setup. But also keep a Wicked lights 402 with the green bulb in it as a weapons mounted light for instant use just in case. You never know when a light can come unplugged or whatever. Also if you get multiples the shooter can get on one and the light man swap to the other to keep track of both. I like to have the top man run the light and call, and the shooter, just shoot.
 
Since they have just started the night hunting here in AZ, there is a bit of a learning curve. One was trying to figure out what the best method would be.

I figured out that a 5 million candle light isn't really that bright. I also learned that a focusing light of 1000 lumen light isn't enough.

I want a light that will allow me to clearly see at 300 yrds the fur. Not just eye's. I also want it to work when there is dew in the air or very light fog. I also don't like plugging into the car battery. I would hate to end up with a dead battery.

I am also very interested in how the different racks are designed and working out. There just doesn't seem to be enough space or room in the truck for all the gear.
 
TBone I've been hunting at night my whole life, and 300 yards is like 1000 during the day.
To add to that, a light that powerful is going to make animals turn away.

I use a lightforce 170 and 150 yards is a good poke for a safe shot.
 
Good advice, What about the dimmer switch?

What kind of set up do you guys usually recommend for a back of the truck set up? Meaning once you make a box, or what ever you decide, do you install a car battery under the swiveling seat, with a quick connect to a relay that charges the battery when driving, but doesn't drain the truck?
 


Write your reply...
Back
Top