How to get blood out of pelt ?
- Thread starter crosseyed
- Start date
tunered
New member
Dont know if this answers your specific question, but this is good,
http://www.furharvesters.com/pelthandling.htm
http://www.furharvesters.com/pelthandling.htm
EasternYotes
New member
usually ill hit mine with a comb as soon as i get home, and sometimes that works, but sometimes they need a little washing. you can dip em in some soapy water before fleshing, then let hang up to dry and flesh the next day.
Lungbuster
New member
Mine get dunked in soapy water and rung out before they go on the stretcher.
Noveske Crusader
New member
Skin out the pelt and put it in the washing machine, fill it with cold water and spin and drain.
Do this process over and over until the water is clear after the spin cycle.
Get an industrial blower/dryer....the kind that insurance restoration guys use to dry out flooded basement...and set it to blow on the hung pelt....
Do not stop the blower until pelt is completely dried or it will rot!
P.s. this is not a joke I used to use this method on huge arctic wolf pelts and it works beautifully.
Do this process over and over until the water is clear after the spin cycle.
Get an industrial blower/dryer....the kind that insurance restoration guys use to dry out flooded basement...and set it to blow on the hung pelt....
Do not stop the blower until pelt is completely dried or it will rot!
P.s. this is not a joke I used to use this method on huge arctic wolf pelts and it works beautifully.
Kollincoyote
New member
A friend of mine uses oxi clean. Scrubs it in the blood and rinses with water. Then use a blow dryer to dry em.
I just sold a bunch of pelts.. I have been on the learning path for this whole process and would tell you that you are good to get out there and go to HomeDepot or other places and get a 35 gallon trash can..
Flesh First..
Get some 20 mule team borax and on sale shampoo (brand doesn't matter)
I have a set of trapping wrist gloves.. I was just using the shampoo, and the buyer gave me some great tips (american fur) He said to use the borax to kill bacteria which will help save the hide.
put the hides in and aggitate and let set for a few minutes and aggitate again. then wring it out and rinse in clean water..
(IMPORTANT money making TIP)
Get a Good Dog brush and comb out the hides.. Make sure the fur lays flat and straight. hang on stretcher skin side out and let get dry so not tacky, then reverse it so that the hair is out.. Then brush it out again, and as it drys keep brushing occassionally.. (for best results)
OK.. The reason...
If you don't do this the blood will cost you in the grading, the holes will too (sew them up) then if you don't brush the hair out as it dries it will get wavy like a perm and that costs money too.. By brushing as it dries this improves the grade. Make sure you use the right stretcher as outlined by the Fur association...
(they are easy to make using a 2X4 cut in half lengthwise.
I also have learned that i was fleshing to much. I was cutting all of the meat, even that thin layer off down to the white hide.. To much, which mean wasted time...
Get the chunks off, all that thin layer on the face is fine.. Leave it.. Get the big chunks and layers of fat off.
Should be a 10-15 minute thing at most..
Biggest leason.. Case skin, but few people talk about that area between the legs.. I was told to leave a patch of fur between the legs like a G-string.. THIS IS WRONG, and i saw that on one of the hunting shows..
you cut from the leg below the joint with the tendon.. around the leg and up the color to the vent.. Go between the vent and the tail with the cut, and back down the color line to the other foot. Then cut down around the vent to the gentials and back up to the other side of the vent.. WHEN you are done there should only be fur on the feet, and a baseball size patch around the vent.. That's it.. All the rest of the fur should come off as part of the hide. Don't try and skin out the ears on the body.. That is a waste of time.. Just pull the hide until you start to see the ears.. about an inch makes it easy.. Then cut them off, with the hide.. When you flesh you can slide the knife between the catilidge and the ear fur.. Run the knife until you have about a 1/4" free and then use plier to pull it the rest of the way off. be careful to pull a little off on each side until you get to the tip of the ear or you will loose a chunk of ear.
you can see they are already graded here and the ones closest where put up and the better hides the ones farthest were not fleshed and dried, not sewn up and not washed.. for the price i got.. I almost should have left them laying where they were when I shot them.
Hope some of this helps.
Flesh First..
Get some 20 mule team borax and on sale shampoo (brand doesn't matter)
I have a set of trapping wrist gloves.. I was just using the shampoo, and the buyer gave me some great tips (american fur) He said to use the borax to kill bacteria which will help save the hide.
put the hides in and aggitate and let set for a few minutes and aggitate again. then wring it out and rinse in clean water..
(IMPORTANT money making TIP)
Get a Good Dog brush and comb out the hides.. Make sure the fur lays flat and straight. hang on stretcher skin side out and let get dry so not tacky, then reverse it so that the hair is out.. Then brush it out again, and as it drys keep brushing occassionally.. (for best results)
OK.. The reason...
If you don't do this the blood will cost you in the grading, the holes will too (sew them up) then if you don't brush the hair out as it dries it will get wavy like a perm and that costs money too.. By brushing as it dries this improves the grade. Make sure you use the right stretcher as outlined by the Fur association...
(they are easy to make using a 2X4 cut in half lengthwise.
I also have learned that i was fleshing to much. I was cutting all of the meat, even that thin layer off down to the white hide.. To much, which mean wasted time...
Get the chunks off, all that thin layer on the face is fine.. Leave it.. Get the big chunks and layers of fat off.
Should be a 10-15 minute thing at most..
Biggest leason.. Case skin, but few people talk about that area between the legs.. I was told to leave a patch of fur between the legs like a G-string.. THIS IS WRONG, and i saw that on one of the hunting shows..
you cut from the leg below the joint with the tendon.. around the leg and up the color to the vent.. Go between the vent and the tail with the cut, and back down the color line to the other foot. Then cut down around the vent to the gentials and back up to the other side of the vent.. WHEN you are done there should only be fur on the feet, and a baseball size patch around the vent.. That's it.. All the rest of the fur should come off as part of the hide. Don't try and skin out the ears on the body.. That is a waste of time.. Just pull the hide until you start to see the ears.. about an inch makes it easy.. Then cut them off, with the hide.. When you flesh you can slide the knife between the catilidge and the ear fur.. Run the knife until you have about a 1/4" free and then use plier to pull it the rest of the way off. be careful to pull a little off on each side until you get to the tip of the ear or you will loose a chunk of ear.
you can see they are already graded here and the ones closest where put up and the better hides the ones farthest were not fleshed and dried, not sewn up and not washed.. for the price i got.. I almost should have left them laying where they were when I shot them.
Hope some of this helps.
Noveske Crusader
New member
Blood is still visible on your pelts.....
NOTHING works like a washing machine..!!!!!
It will make a bit of a mess on the machine but washing off the blood in the washing machine is effortless....
There will be 0 blood regardless of what it looked like before and it will not stink....but dryer blower is a must have.
NOTHING works like a washing machine..!!!!!
It will make a bit of a mess on the machine but washing off the blood in the washing machine is effortless....
There will be 0 blood regardless of what it looked like before and it will not stink....but dryer blower is a must have.
The ones that have blood were sold as Green and not put up. They were shot a few days prior to the buyer arriving.
I don't have the space, and I would imagine most people don't have the space or a wife that would go along with the idea of a washing machine to put bloody coyotes in. I know mine won't..
Maybe a late night run to the local Laundry mat though.. i could just see the look on the face of someone that shows up.. lol
I don't have the space, and I would imagine most people don't have the space or a wife that would go along with the idea of a washing machine to put bloody coyotes in. I know mine won't..
Maybe a late night run to the local Laundry mat though.. i could just see the look on the face of someone that shows up.. lol
Noveske Crusader
New member
That's ok our wives said no way too.
We just waited till they went out shopping and whammo in the washing machine they went.....gotta be quick...
You must have a partner acting as a lookout for when momma comes back that;s all....
We just waited till they went out shopping and whammo in the washing machine they went.....gotta be quick...
You must have a partner acting as a lookout for when momma comes back that;s all....