How To Zero A Thermal Scope

Kirsch

Kirsch

Active member
I've been asked how to zero a thermal scope many times. I decided to put together a quick video on how I do it. Sorry for the audio quality and wind, but you use what you have.

I realize it is really hard to see the reticle move when I adjust it to change my zero. I probably should have closed the lens cap when in place to give a better view of what it looked like. It looked good in the scope but didn't record very well.



 
I've used everything you mentioned for targets except heating nails and ice cubes. HVAC tape is my favorite. Good hundred yard groups with thermal is a challenge for me.
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In general, people need to realize they will not typically shoot as good of groups with thermal as a high quality glass scope. Some of the challenges impacting thermals include:

First, it is hard to get an exact aiming point. The cross method works about the best for me vs a larger square. Image bloom is also a culprit to lots of poor groups.

Second, lots of thermals simply don't have the accuracy people are used to with using a glass scopes as you are seeing an electronic interpretation of the target. You add the fact the digital image is redrawn after each NUC based on complex algorithms and movement can and does happen. Different brands and models of thermal scopes shoot better groups also.

Third, image quality decreases dramatically on a thermal scope once digital zoom is deployed, so it can get really difficult to get a large sight picture of the aiming point like you can with a glass scope. 1 pixel is still 1 pixel when it is zoomed in digitally on a thermal. These are just a few of the reasons.

Igor, I think most people would take that group with a thermal. Groups like that should lead to a dead coyotes and/or hogs.



 
Hello Korey, your video is very beautiful and the reticle calibration method is really simple. Unfortunately I don't understand your excellent English. I ask you 3 things: 1) At what distance should the target normally be set for calibration; 2) What it is called and where you can buy the metallic adhesive tape; 3) How can I translate your voice into YouTube video from English to Italian. Thank you in advance
 
Originally Posted By: Ernest49Hello Korey, your video is very beautiful and the reticle calibration method is really simple. Unfortunately I don't understand your excellent English. I ask you 3 things: 1) At what distance should the target normally be set for calibration; 2) What it is called and where you can buy the metallic adhesive tape; 3) How can I translate your voice into YouTube video from English to Italian. Thank you in advance
Distance: I would recommend starting at 50 yards/meters, to get it close, and then move to whatever distance you like to zero your optics. I like to be 1 inch high at 100. I sight my glass scopes in at this range and do the same for my thermals.

Tape: It is Aluminum Foil Tape. A better image can be found here

Translation: You tube doesn't get closed captioning perfect, but it gets a lot of the words correct. Open the Video in YouTube, select the 2nd button in the bottom, right corner that says Settings, Select the third Option in the List that says Subtitles/CC, select Auto Translate and scroll through the options until you see Italian. If Auto-Translate is not an option, select English or another option first, and then try again. If the text is still not showing in Italian, make sure to select the CC option on the bottom so it has a red line below it. The voice won't translate but you can see a text translation in Italian that will get most of the words correct.
 
Wow! Thank you very much! I managed to read the Italian subtitles in your YouTube video. .. Although the automatic translator does not translate well, I understand almost everything. It is a really simple calibration method. But is it better to calibrate point 0 during the day or at night? There is a passage that is not entirely clear to me when you say that you have to tilt the target by 10-20 degrees to get the light reflection of the aluminum adhesive tape. Does it mean that if you do the calibration during the day, the thermal device sees it better? But at moonless night, what light can it reflect? Maybe you need to light your target with a torch?
 
Originally Posted By: Ernest49But is it better to calibrate point 0 during the day or at night? There is a passage that is not entirely clear to me when you say that you have to tilt the target by 10-20 degrees to get the light reflection of the aluminum adhesive tape. Does it mean that if you do the calibration during the day, the thermal device sees it better? But at moonless night, what light can it reflect? Maybe you need to light your target with a torch? I prefer to sight my thermals in during the day because everything works better when you can see. Tilting the target back allows more reflection from the tape, and makes the target easier to see whether day or night.

When I zero (calibrate) at night, I shine my vehicle lights on the target but any light would help reflect the light.
 
Another way to zero your thermal scope is to get a resistor from on old electronic device, or just buy one from a place they used to call Radio Shack,(I loved that place), wire it to a 9 volt battery, tape the wires and resistor to your target and shoot away. Makes a very clear black circle, easily seen from 100 yards.
 
This morning the friend who bought the Pulsar Thermion XP50 went to the shooting range for calibration. He followed the advice suggested in Kirsch's video tutorial well. He writes to me now that, at a distance of 55 yards, with the Thermion eyepiece, he is having a hard time seeing the bullet holes on the cardboard. He asks if he should replace the cardboard with a metal plate.
 
If using cardboard, you will not see your bullet holes often. I walk/drive up to my target after each shot. I have been told there are other types of materials you can use that will show the bullet holes, but I can't remember what it was. I always have a piece of cardboard laying around so that is why I use it. When he shoots, he can mark his bullet holes with a small piece of the HVAC tape to mark them, so he can adjust the scope to where the bullet hit.
 


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