I couldn't help myself- I had to restore a Browning 22-250 BLR

SodakJim

SodakJim

New member
A good friend of my daughter was given a truely beat-up Browning BLR from his boss. I should have documented the before and after on this project, but didn't think about it till I had most of the work done. The stock in the photos was in 5 pieces with one missing entirely, 80% of the bluing was gone and rust had badly pitted the receiver, cocking lever, and barrel. There is considerable stained Acraglas Gel re-informent in the grip area, particularly where it connects to the tang on the receiver. The rear sight was smashed and the front sight blade was bent. Most of the stock finish was scratched off, and the checkering on the grip could not be saved. It was also missing a few internal parts, and there was no box magazine to be found. I did a total re-polishing and sent the parts off to be blued. The Wood in the buttstock was very high grade, and bore was like new, so I figured it was a good project for a complete restoration. I will post some photos of the completed rifle in a few weeks when it's done.

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That is very nice looking wood, sounds like a worth-while project. I like the BLR, my dad has a .243, I hope my daughter is going to shoot her first deer with it this year. I look forward to seeing your finished project.

Good luck, -Ron
 
Browning has always used better than average grade woods on their earlier rifles...

That is an excellent refinish job so far and you really got the grain to pop out...

Like others, I'll be looking forward to seeing the finished project..
 
Nice job! I love the old straight stock steel frame BLR 81's and have one in .308, as does my dad, his is also in .308. One of these days I'd like to find a nice one in .243 also.

Your post begs the question, how does someone let a firearm get into such terrible condition? I mean short of a plane wreck with an immediate explosion and fire, then not being recovered as it lay exposed to the weather and elements for several years - how does a person let a gun get so beat up?
 
To anser Martyn's question; I 'm doing the stock repair and refinishing myself. I used to build some custom rifles in the 60s and 70s so I can do a good job and I take my time at it. I'm not sure how it got into that condition and several others have asked how someone could neglect a nice gun to that extent. I'm working on a pair of rusty old model 12 Winchesters that need restoration now. I doubt the owner will re-blue them. It's hard to make a case for a total restoration unless there is some sentimental value attached to the gun. Many around here think of a gun as a tool that gets little TLC. You don't see many high grade firearms in central South Dakota.

I know a gunsmith in Idaho that will hot rust blue a rifle or shotgun for $45 if you do all the metal polishing.

I did a Claro walnut Presentation Grade stock once that was far above this one, but it broke in a serious fall and ended up a decorative lamp. Many of the pretty ones are not as strong as some of the plain dense walnut stocks. If the direction of the grain goes diagonal or crosswise to the length of the stock it may not be very strong.
 
Here are some assembled photos of my Browning BLR Project. I still have to mount a new scope, mounts and rings, hammer extension, sling and swivels, and the missing front sight and rear sight windage screws.

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It sure is looking better now. The owner was going to toss it in the trash. He will have $420 in the refinished gun, which includes my labor and materials, a Bushnell Tropy 3-9X40 scope, Leupold base and rings, Hammer extension, and Bulldog 44 in case.

Jim
 
I have the Bushenell Trophy 3-9x40 scope mounted with Leupold mount and rings and it is all sigted in. 1 1/2 groups at 100 meters with 55 grain handloads. That's not to bad for a lever rifle. I might try a few more bullets to see if I can get it any better. I think the owner will want it back soon. He will have to bring it back to me when I get the front sight and rear sight screws that can up missing.

What do you all think ???
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I need to refinish a browning safari grade stock. It's an older FN and the lacquer is all cracking. How do I remove the finish from the checkering without
damaging it? I've seen so many refinish jobs that the checkering is the obvious
give a way.
Sorry for not complimenting your work directly, I hope asking for advise was
an even better one. very nice.
 
You did one heck of a job that thing looks good and thats no B/S. That wood has some very pretty wood grain in it. The owner must of been crazy for wanting to throw away a browning anyway. but he will be happy now.
 
Fantasitic work on that BLR! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif

I'd even have THAT one!....Kudos! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
Quote:
I need to refinish a browning safari grade stock. It's an older FN and the lacquer is all cracking. How do I remove the finish from the checkering without
damaging it? I've seen so many refinish jobs that the checkering is the obvious
give a way.
Sorry for not complimenting your work directly, I hope asking for advise was
an even better one. very nice.



The checkering on the grip could not be saved due to all the damage and missing pieces of wood. It wasn't great checkering to begin with.

Apply some finish stripper to the checkering first, and let it sit forever how long the instructions say, then use an old toothbrush to scrub out the grooves. Once the checkering is all clean and dry, you can mask it all off and strip the rest of the stock. Remove the masking tape and re-mask the checkered areas to protect them while your sanding and preparing the rest of the stock. The masking will protect the checkered areas. If you have to use coarse sandpaper, double layers of masking may be needed.

If your going to stain the wood, remove the masking, apply the stain and VERY thin sealing coats of Tru-Oil finish to the checkered areas. You don't want to fill up the checkering grooves but you do want to prevent moisture absorbtion in those areas. Next, you mask the checkering again while you build up filling coats of the finish. Buff with #0000 steel wool between coats to fill and level the finish. After several thin coats, the finish will fill the grain. If you have any any places that are not smooth and level, you can wet-sand it with 2000 grit wet-or-dry paper. Buff lightly with the steel wool to even up the surface. If your good with a spray can of the Tru-Oil, you can put the final coat on that way. It will be a heavier flow coat that will look great if done right. If you have any minor problems like dust or very small runs in the final coat, you may be able to wet sand them out with the 2000 grit after the finish has cured for a week or so. The last thing I do is hand buff the cured finish with McGuires Cleaner Wax to bring it to a high lustre finish. Remove the masking and clean up any sticky adhesive with mineral spirits or even RemOil works OK.

Take your time, and give it a day between coats and you will have less problems. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
Jim
 
thanks for a great run down. I've done tru oil before and will use an air brush
for the final coats. (it's cold up here and easy to run the stuff when applied
by hand.) Got all winter on this one so I'll take my time. Thanks again!
 
Quote:
thanks for a great run down. I've done tru oil before and will use an air brush
for the final coats. (it's cold up here and easy to run the stuff when applied
by hand.) Got all winter on this one so I'll take my time. Thanks again!



The air brush is a great idea. The spray cans are problematic and are prone to fish-eyes and just getting clogged up all the time. It's hard to use under 72 degrees, and alot is waisted as overspray. What are you using for an air brush? I want to get one soon for myself.
 
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