Five of the 6 lights you referenced use the XR-E type/size Cree LED. The XR-E throws further than the XP-G LED, which is in the DINO 300 lumens light. The XP-G is better for flood light, not spotlighting. The 300 lumens of overall light that is quoted for the DINO is probably true. The XP-G can produce more overall light, but doesn't have the strong concentrated beam for distance.
The XR-E (single LED) is only capable of producing up to 250 lumens. So the claims of "800" lumens, or "345" lumens are false.
Of the 5 lights that have the XR-E LED:
The SG900 has a large head and deep smooth refector, which is great for throwing the light beam. However, this model uses the Q5 flux LED which is one step weaker than the R2 flux. Also, the electronic LED driver for this light only has 710 to 760 milliamps of current going thru the LED. This limits the light that an XR-E is capable of producing (usually you want from 1000 up to 1400 milliamps to get the greatest possible light from an XR-E). Of course, the battery life will be longer since it's not drawing so much juice.
The e-bay Ultrafire is a recoil thrower design. It's a good thrower.
The C8 "345 lumens"? Ultrafire is a good thrower if it comes with the smooth reflector. One picture shows an orange-peel reflector while another picture shows the smooth reflector. How do you believe what you're buying, if they're lying about the lumens output and the pictures are misleading.
The 800 lumen Ultrafire seems to have the smooth reflector. It will probably throw well. But the 800 lumens is a lie.
The Uniquefire HS-802 is a great thrower. Large head, smooth deep reflector (more deep than those Ultrafire C8 flashlights), an R2 flux XR-E LED, and the driver has 1000 to 1200 milliamps powering the LED. This is the one that would throw better than any of the others.
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From a past post:
The R2 has a higher flux (more efficient) than the Q5. This means that the R2 produces more lumens for the same amount of battery current, as compared to the Q5. The Q5 has higher flux than the Q4. The Q4 has higher flux than the Q3.
The R5 is a higher flux than the R2. However, the R5 is not available for the small XR-E size LED (the XR-E is the favored LED size for maximum throw of the light beam). You can get the R5 flux for the larger XP-G size LED, but it won't have as good of throw as a R2 or Q5 XR-E size LED.
Many of the CandlePower forum experts get upset when vendors say that their light is an R2 or a Q5, or a Q4, without mentioning the LED size/type and other information.
To better describe the LED for a flashlight, you need to know the LED type/size (such as XR-E), the flux (such as Q5), the voltage range accepted by the LED driver (such as 3V to 18V, so this tells you if you can use two batteries in series or not), the maximum current being delivered by the LED driver (such as 1.2 amps), and the "color" of the white light (for example 6500 degrees K). For outdoor use, you want a white light color temperature of less than 5000 degrees, so that the true colors of nature are more distinct and visible to you (and better for blood tracking, like the old incandescant light bulb).
and from another post:
The reflector size and design is important to throw (lux, not lumens). The larger, deeper, and smooth reflectors give the most throw (how far the beam will shine). The lumens (overall light going everywhere, not directed to any particular spot) has little to do with throw. The size of the LED is important to throw (smaller LED size, the better). For Cree brand LEDs, the smaller XR-E type throws farther than the XP-E and larger XP-G,and XM-L types. But the XR-E puts out less lumens than the larger XP-G and XM-L type LEDs.
LEDs use a driver to govern the amps delivered from the battery to the LED. The driver board that can provide the most amps without burning up the LED can give you more lumens and more lux (and use up the battery charge quicker).
LEDs driven hard will produce heat. It is good to have this heat transferred into the body of the flashlight, so the LED itself won't overheat and burn up (and reduce its output). So flashlight designs for "heat sinking" allow the LED itself to not overheat (but the flashlight body will feel warmer to you).