If you had to design the perfect coyote skining knife it would........

Good Lord G C !
All of your knife porn is beginning to make me feel a bit faint !
Those are some truly beautiful blades . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
>>>>>>rfm.
 
Well thank you fellows. Let me leave you with two factory blades. A Benchmade folder with carbon fiber handles and M2 blade:
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And a Microtech LCC with 154CM blade.
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I'll quit now, but a good knife is an investment that literally will last several lifetimes with proper care. I enjoy knowing that my knives will see use long after I'm gone in the hunting fields in the hands of my children and most likely my grandchildren when that day arrives.
 
GC,

Thank You, for breaking out all the pics of truly some very nice knives plus the web sites I will be using those for sure. We strayed away from the original post a little, but when a collector as your self starts pulling out the "ACES", it's well worth the change.
anyway I will continue to seek for the style and design of the "all most" perfect yote skining knife. All suggestions are welcome and I'm just curious of different hunters opinion and moreso there designs.

Thanks again
vaportrail
 
The Knives of Alaska Cub is both. IIRC it's actually offered as both a fixed (that would be my preference) and a new folder they've brought to the market.

OK, to address your question I strongly prefer a smallish fixed blade of no more than about 3" in blade length and certainly less than 7" inches overall. I like a thin blade stock, no more than .125", a high hollow grind is my preference, but I wouldn't argue with a thin flat ground blade. Any of the very good blade steels I mentioned above would suit me fine with me probably favoring carbon steels such as 52100, 1095, or the semi-carbon D2 and M2. If "stainless" was my only option S30V would be the choice. I like natural handle materials such as Stag and Jigged Bone, but for a pure working knife Micarta is tops. I like my handles to have a slightly rounded and very slightly curved feel. A single finger groove is alright, but no more than this one. I don't care much for guards. If they're present they must be small, real small. A Kydex sheath takes the worries out of security and clean-up. A horizontal/crossdraw sheath is handiest of all worn to the left of the front belt buckle. The fixed blade is simple, strong, always ready, and the clean-up from blood, fat, hair, ect., is a snap. Much easier than a folder. That's my ideal fur knife. Something like the Dozier Canoe Knife or Arkansas Traveler. There are several other Dozier's that fill the bill very well too. A Scott Cook Small Owyhee Hunter is about perfect as well.
 
GC, you and I have the same taste in knives!! I prefer carbon steels too, like the steels you mentioned. And if I had to pick a stainless it would be S30V with VG-10 running a close second. And I love sharpening knives of all sorts!
 
I also have a KOA Cub Bear and use it for all skinning. They really hold an edge, I sharpened it at the begginning of the season and didn't sharpen it all year with lots of skinning. I ran it over a steel once in a while but that is it. I also have the sure grip with the non-serrated edge. I even bought one for my dad because i was alwyas bragging it up and he needed a better skinning knife. I would carry it on my hip for dressing deer etc, if i had another one. Great knife.
 
Hi, For those who have not seen a Cub here is a pic. Also a pic of a Ka-Bar(this model is good), the old timer, and a Gerber which has skinned more than it's share including a half dozen elk.
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Quote:
I also use the muskrat as a fleshing knife.



J. Holly, how do you sharpen the fur it to get it to cut? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I would recommend any knife from Knives of Alaska. They are just a great product. I used the small knife in question to skin 2 buffalo before it needed sharpining. A buddy of mine was sharping his knife and his buffalo wasn't half way skinned yet. For those of you that have skinned a buffalo, you know how tough it can be, especially skinning on the head.
 
Well, what I generally do, is I file down the teeth, and just whittle with them!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-006.gif
 
GC,

You truly have some NICE knives there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowingsmilie.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowingsmilie.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowingsmilie.gif

I've always used Buck, Gerber, and Kershaw knives and have sharpened them with my Lansky system which has left them literally razor sharp. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif

I got on a knife forum recently and got talked into a Benchmade Griptillian with D2 steel. This steel doesn't seem that it will EVER get dull but if it does will my Lansky sharpen it? I don't have the diamond hones... Just the stone version. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
Griptillian

I've never skinned a coyote... Well... I tried once and made a mess of it but plenty of deer and elk have gone under the knife. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I like small blades that are extremely sharp and often use a Gerber 500 for a whole deer without even re-sharpening once. This knife is a very lightweight folder with a 2 3/4" blade and a drop point. We use either a Wyoming saw for bone or a battery powered reciprocating saw if available.
Gerber 500

btw... I also "reshape" a blade with a course stone before using my Lansky. It shortens sharpening time and makes for a finer cutting edge. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
Lansky Standard

$bob$
 
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