Just what does it cost?

E

evilstepdad

New member
Hello, have done some searching and ran across all of the reasons for reloading and I read that a lot of you who reload list cost savings as one of the reasons and I am wondering just how much do you actually save?

I know about the better accurecy etc..but it would be nice to hear from some of you who have loaded for awhile and have a pretty good handle on what it does cost.

My original thought was a .223 as you can buy ammo fairly reasonable for it (black hills)and it looks like it would be hard to beat their reloaded ammo prices. If the savings were enough then maybe a person would want to reload for a different caliber or maybe even get the .223 cheaper.

Other calibers to consider would be the 22-250 or the .220 swift.. I had not planned on reloading but if the savings were enough it is something I might do.

Thanks,

evilstepdad
 
If you shoot a Swift, you'll probley want to reload. There are very few factory offerings in that caliber. 223 and 22-250 are available as you already know. Good luck..
 
check the price of 30-378 ammo, then figure up how much it would cost over the life of the rifle, you could reload for way less than half. this is where your saving money on the costs of specialty ammo. I can buy brand new cases for my 7mm STW and load 100 rounds for less than the price of 60 rounds of factory fodder
RR
 
Like the guys said. Your big savings are on the unique/oddball cartridges. Standard chamberings are more mass produced and cheaper for that. However, if you get a hankering to shoot a TSX, Accubond, VLD, etc. you don't have to drive all over the world trying to find those only offering in a Fed Premium, that are going to be high as the oddball cart. Reloading, you can load what you want. It's not a ton cheaper in standard cal. but the convenience to do what you want/when you want at a lower price is worth it.

With the quality of product that is produced, I would reload if it was more expensive... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-006.gif
 
Its fun too! An amazing thing, Federal Match and Black Hills ammo is exceptionaly good, especialy to long ranges. Very hard to beat that stuff in the loading room, in something like a factory chambering. But COST does factor in, and thats how I beat them. Of course I don't factor in the cost of all the equipment! (Hell! Don't ever tell my wife! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif )

I enjoy handloading, but if you shoot quite a bit, it can take up large amounts of time, especily if you get hung up on load work and trying new things all the time. The key is to make as good of records as you can. Who knows, in a year or two when you decide to re-try an old load how you will be able to "re-read" your old notes. http://www.sinclairintl.com/

Sinclair's has some good stuff, and they have a catalog that will make a handloader drool, FOR FREE! Send for one to help you think about it, but don't tell your wife I turned you on to it! I don't want to get into trouble. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Thanks Coleridge now I know I'am an Oddball , been that way for a long time , I'am comffortable with it. Swift shooters unite !
 
Most reloaders find that it saves on the cost per round (as above), but not on the cost of shooting, cause you'll wind up shooting a lot more. Ain't it great? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
thats the truth, I reload 45 acp, 30 carbine and .308 and what I found is that I shoot alot more than I did when I had to buy ammo. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif But seriously you have the ability to create rounds just for your rifle or situation, and it is great. I have plinking rounds for my 30 carbine, and hunting rounds for it. same for my 1911 and 700. But be warned it is an addiction and soon you will find yourself in seclusion trying to find the " perfect round"..... well only sometimes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowingsmilie.gif
 
First thanks for the replies..I hear ya as far as it costing as much or more because you go out and shoot more and this is why I ask the question..

When I get a new rifle it would be nice to actually go out and shoot it. Wish I had one of those money tree's but I can't seem to find one so I have to watch my coin and make the most of it as I am sure most of you do, with that being said I want to go out and shoot and it could be paper, critters etc.. so if I am spending X amount on ammo and can fire 20 rounds or spend X amount on ammo and fire 40 rounds then I have to go with the X amount for 40 if I want to get something out of this sport.

Have any of you actually figured out what it cost per round to load (220 swift, 22-250, 223) and broken it down to brass that you use X amount of times?

Again, thanks for the feed back but it would be nice if someone knew just what it cost per round to load.

evilstepdad
 
I dont reload so i buy the varmint packs at walmart.I think it is 18.00 for 40 in 223 and 21.00 for 40 in 22-250.With this price you cant go wrong.
 
Evil
prices are Mid-Way USA no shipping

Brass Rem. 223 $11.49 per 100
Brass Rem 22-250 $19.49 per 100
Nosler 50gr BTips $12.69 per 100
Mid-way dog town 50 gr. $7.92 per 100
Powder local 1 lb W/W 748 $19.00
Powder Local 1 lb RL-15 $19.00
primers local per 1000 $20.00

Basic cost per loaded round
223
.013 Brass = $11.49/100 pcs / 8 reloads
.02 Primers = $20.00 /1000
.08 powder = $ 19.00 =16 oz= 250 loads
.126 Nosler 50 bt $ 12.69 / 100
____
.239 per round fired .223 Nosler BTips

.293 per round fired 22-250 Nosler BTips(brass and powder cost more).

Give or take a few cents per round, it'll give you an idea of the cost per shot/ per box of 20 or 40. The larger the cal. the more you could save per shot compared to factory loads.

JS
 
Prices figured from the local gun shop here.
22-250 shooting a 55 V Max - 36 gr's
.015 - primer
.10 - powder ($19.15 a lb)
.12 - bullet
--------------
23 1/2 cents per shell
$4.70 per bx of 20

By using a less powder charge & less expensive of bullet then it will be cheaper yet.
 
Don't forget, the initial cost of the brass can be spread over several loadings. Its the only part you get to reuse again and again.

Lets take the 300 Weatherby
@ $50 a box that $2.50 per shell, a start.

with handloads I'll round up the cost to;
$20 for 7000 grains for powder,
$20 for primers per 1000
$1 per round for Norma brass
$20 per box 100, 200 grain SMK's

so at .24$ per powder per shell
and .20$ per bullet
and .02$ per primer
and .13$ per case, ($1.00 divided by 8 for the no. of times loaded)

That equals a cost of about .59$ per shell, compared to $2.50 per shell to purchase Weatherby's loading.

Thats quite a savings!
Much less with other ammo, but if it wasn't for handloading, there would be no way I could shoot as much as I do. Hope this helps.
 
generally speaking you aren't going to save money despite how logical you make it out to be, unless you shoot a lot.
the guy that shoots 50 to 100 rounds a year is better just buying factory rounds. but really it's just fun!
 
I might lose money on my .223, but my 22-250 cost about half what it would cost me to buy them. I reload because I like to do it.
 
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