Leupold Boone and Crocket reticle

Y

yoteblaster

Active member
For those of you who have the Boone and Crocket reticles at what power on the scope ring does the small and large triangles appear. I am thinking of buying one but don't want the power setting on the large traingle being to low not allowing me to do as well on the longer shot
 
I have the 4.5-14-40 BC on the 270wsm and run it on 14 power it also depends on what cal your gun is. They are nice scopes and the book that comes with it will tell you all about useing the bc ret.
 
the spacing is as follows....

200yd zero DROP
300yd 2.19 moa = 6.8 inches
400yd 4.80 moa = 20.11 inches
450yd 6.26 moa = 29.5 inches
500yd 7.82 moa = 40.95 inches

most calibers will match this reticle....

my 223 runs great with it with 75 grains at 2780 fps

my 7mm runs great with it with 160 accubonds at 2900 fps

easy to use and easy to tailor to your rifle.
 
The best part about the reticle is that you can make slight adjustments to the power ring to exactly match your trajectory to scope. Tom.
 
I am looking at the 3x10 and the 4.5x14 I am just wondering where the marks are at. I generally set the scope on 5 or six when I sit down to call. It would be nice if the marks were right on for the drop of my load. The sierra load book shows my 223 with the SBT at 3300fps lining up almost exactly with the amount of drop on the Boone and Crocket reticle using the large trainge. I am wondering where that mark is at on the above scopes.
 
Here's how i would zero that reticle to have the most precise intuitive system of reference.

1) Run the ballistic program for your load to see if the zeros will be close using the 200 yd. x-hair zero that the Leupold BAS system advises to do using the MOA values that Y2C referenced above (u can convert those figures to inch per hundred yds. [IPHY] if u wish by multiplying each 1 by 1.05). Adjust zero range a little and rerun the program checking to see if the longer-range zeros come closer to the reticle.

2) Check x-hair zero at whatever range you've chosen from the program.

3) Set big tgts. up at all the 300, 400, 450 and 500 yd. ranges.

4) Use 1 aiming point for the center x-hair to shoot all your gps. high on the tgts.

5) Go out and measure how far down the gps. are from your aiming points.

6) Convert those measurements to inch per hundred yds. like this--

a) 400 yd. gp is 16" low, 16/4 = 4 IPHY
b) 450 is 22" low, 22/4.5 = 4.9 IPHY
c) etc.

7) Go back to the 100 yd. tgt. and put black marks below a center x-hair aiming point at all the IPHY calcs from #6 above.

8) Look at the tgt. with the scope and while keeping the x-hair on the uppermost aiming point adjust the magnification until the marks are aligned with their respective reticle stadia points, paying particular attention to the longer range marks.

9) Mark the scope with your new reference mk. that gives the best true reticle to trajectory fit.
 
I have seen a lot of charts and diagrams over the years. Some were good, and some were bad. But the only way to really know what your rifle is doing is to shoot your rifle at the range. I have had several scopes with reticles the same as or similar to the B&C. The only real way to know is to shoot it. It takes a good bit of range time, and powder to really get it right. It has taken me about 300 rounds or so to really understand my VH reticle on my Leupod 6.5X20. But now that I have it figured out, the reticle is truly deadly out to 500 yards on my Rock River Varminter.

I have to set my scope at just under 20X(approx. 19X) to get the optimium performance out of my VH reticle. My crosshair is dead on at 200 yards. And the bullets are 2 inches high at 300, 400, and 500 yards. That is as close as I can get it. There is a trade off involved. And as long as you understand that trade off-then the reticle is deadly. In this rifle I shoot the red box Black Hills 50 grain V-Max ammo. I bought 4 cases on closeout a couple of years ago, and it shoots so well that I do not think I can reload a more accurate load. Tom.

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Hey HOGGHEAD I likes that photo of your AR...Wish I could have one, but I can't. I live in Californication. I'm originally from Parkersburg, West by God. Ain't been there since 76. Grizz
 
Guy's thanks for all the help, but really all I want to know is where the the marking locations are located on the scope on the 4.5x4x40 and the 3x10x40. I am interested in buying one of these but if the large traingle is located at 3 power or 10 power I wouldn't be interested but if it was at 6 or 7 power I would buy. I just want to know where the markers are placed on the scope power ring. The large marker drop figures are almost perfect for my load.
 
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Guy's thanks for all the help, but really all I want to know is where the the marking locations are located on the scope on the 4.5x4x40 and the 3x10x40. I am interested in buying one of these but if the large traingle is located at 3 power or 10 power I wouldn't be interested but if it was at 6 or 7 power I would buy. I just want to know where the markers are placed on the scope power ring. The large marker drop figures are almost perfect for my load.



If I'm not mistaken the large triangle is always at the max magnification. It is the smaller that varies, depending on the scope.

I'm trying to remember this from what the Leupold person told me so my memory is fuzzy. My large triangle is on the max setting, I have a 4.5x14x50 with the vhr and I love it.
 
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8) Look at the tgt. with the scope and while keeping the x-hair on the uppermost aiming point adjust the magnification until the marks are aligned with their respective reticle stadia points, paying particular attention to the longer range marks.

9) Mark the scope with your new reference mk. that gives the best true reticle to trajectory fit.



When performing step 8 remember the target has to be at the range for the group you are adjusting for.

So if your zero is 200, and you want the next dot at 300, then put the target at 300. The cross hair then has to be on zero, then move the power ring till the 300 yard dot is on the 300 yard group with the cross hair on zero.

Now for the 400 yard dot you will have to take the target to 400 yards. Check it there and see if the 400 yard dot is close to the 400 yard group and so on.

If the bullet is following the dots perfectly the dots will line up after the 300 yard step at each range. Usually this is not the case, but they do get close enough that a dead center hold will be all you need.

Your other option is to do each step, changing the scope power for each range, and marking the scope for each distance. This for me is a little silly since you never know what range your shot will be at, and while your adjusting the scope, the dog is busting you.
 
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don't worry about the dang markers, use the MOA of the reticle lines and shoot.



Exactly! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
 
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8) Look at the tgt. with the scope and while keeping the x-hair on the uppermost aiming point adjust the magnification until the marks are aligned with their respective reticle stadia points, paying particular attention to the longer range marks.

9) Mark the scope with your new reference mk. that gives the best true reticle to trajectory fit.



When performing step 8 remember the target has to be at the range for the group you are adjusting for.

So if your zero is 200, and you want the next dot at 300, then put the target at 300. The cross hair then has to be on zero, then move the power ring till the 300 yard dot is on the 300 yard group with the cross hair on zero.

Now for the 400 yard dot you will have to take the target to 400 yards. Check it there and see if the 400 yard dot is close to the 400 yard group and so on.

If the bullet is following the dots perfectly the dots will line up after the 300 yard step at each range. Usually this is not the case, but they do get close enough that a dead center hold will be all you need.

Your other option is to do each step, changing the scope power for each range, and marking the scope for each distance. This for me is a little silly since you never know what range your shot will be at, and while your adjusting the scope, the dog is busting you.



Vogelsong step 6 above converts the true bullet drop at each range to inch per 100 yds. This way u don't have to adjust the power ring for each distance at each distance. The whole idea is to get the best trajectory to reticle fit as an avg. of each distance. That's why u adjust bullet drop for what the bullet drop will look like thru the optic at 100 yds. IMO, this is the best way to do it since all the IPHY bullet drops are on one sheet of paper.
 
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don't worry about the dang markers, use the MOA of the reticle lines and shoot.



I also simply match trajectory to reticle subtension most of the time with a ballistics program, but sometimes this is less than ideal. My old XP-100 6.5-284 using the 129 gr. SST followed the reticle subtension perfectly with the optic i was using, but my AR 223AI using the 70 JLK VLD was way off at the longer ranges. Sometimes i will go to the JBM site and use their different drag functions to get the best fit. That almost always works.
 


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