Little nervous now just finished bedding my rifle with in weld.

Those spray on release agents such as Accra Release are great. There is another one we use at work that is real good too, but I can't think of the name of it. Easy to apply and very easy to clean up. Of the many bedding compounds I've used, Accra Gel is the most versatile, but Pro Bed is my favorite. Devcon I thought was ok, not fond of the mixing ratio, 1 :1 is so much easier to remember..................age maybe
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, plus, you can have any color you want as long as it is black......actually a dark grey.
For somebody just starting the Bedrock bedding kit is not a bad option. The bedding material is good and it comes with every thing you will need to mix, apply, and has the surgical tubes that some like to use. Bedrocks release agent works good, but Accra Release spray on is quick and easy and the way to go.
 
Originally Posted By: ackleymanevery time they have a problem, it is because they used some kind of wax.

There have been so many problems with new guys learning to bed, that I tell them straight out that I will not teach them how to bed unless they use Brownell's spray Accra Release agent.

NONE of the new guys EVER HAVE A PROBLEM when they use this Brownell's product.

I let my guns sit for 3 days before I touch them and in cold weather, 7 days on my kitchen table.

I have used a variety of bedding compounds:

Devcon
Marine Tex
Bisonite
these three are the best

Probably 80% or more of the gunsmiths out there use Marine tex. Marine Corp used to use Bisonite.

I degrease all parts twice with brake cleaner. Then give two coats of the Spray accra release, including chamber and lug recess. When you are finished, the accra release washes off with the brake cleaner, easy and quick. Getting release agent down in the chamber and lug recess is critical, all knooks and cranies in the trigger area, etc. The spray gets in these areas real easy, and also cleans up easy.

A can of accra release cost around $32 and you can bed 10 guns with it, and just forget ANY issue with the action sticking.


So, if you want to dive into bedding your own gun, Marine tex Grey or Devcon, can of brake cleaner, and Brownell's accra release, and you will have zero problems...none!

I can't say that there is anything wrong with JB Weld, and I would not get the quick dry unless I was just bedding the recoil lug.

I have not had great success with plastic stocks in as far as really improving the accuracy with the exception of one Rem sps in 7 mag. I always drill a bunch of 1/8"holes, rough up the surface, degrease with brake cleaner. The epoxy has always stuck to the sides. Problem with plastic stocks is that they are very flexible in the pistol grip, and just in front of the recoil lug. The 7 mag that I had good luck with, I filled the forearm full of 1/4" steel rods, JB weld, and free floated the barrel.

Since plastic stock rifles are usually not a long range rifle, bedding may be a waste of time, stock replacement is advisable if you are wanting to seriously improve your groups.

I shot benchrest for many years and did my own stock work and this info. is very close to what I did with all my guns, and many other benchresters followed procedures very similar to this for what it's worth.
 
Ok now I got it back together action is bedded barrel nut is floated but when I tighten the action screws I noticed the barrel at the end of the stock is almost touching on the one side. Nw hat would cause this? How to fix it?
 
Originally Posted By: zr600Ok now I got it back together action is bedded barrel nut is floated but when I tighten the action screws I noticed the barrel at the end of the stock is almost touching on the one side. Nw hat would cause this? How to fix it?

Time to start over.

I just bedded a Montana yesterday. When I get some time I'll start a thread and show how to do it.... Well, how I do it. But, I think you'll see it's not bad! Turned out perfect.
 
Not sure, but if you didn't wrap the barrel with a few layers of tape near the end of the forend to keep it centered then that will do it for sure.
 
Ok that's what happened then so just a few layers or enough to basically lightly touch each side of the stock? Should I do more then one spot with tape?
 
shoe polish works just as well for way less money and I have done my share,i like devcon but I have used JB weld also and never had one stick you have to be careful and make sure you cover everything.i even color the devcon to closely match the stock.
 
I just put a couple business cards or tape around the barrel to keep it centered.

To be honest, the plastic savage stock is complete garbage. You will still have a flexible stock. Some guys will epoxy metal rods in the forearm area to stiffen it. Because it is so flexible, it is possible that the flexing could pop bedding loose.

Finally, it sounds like you did a skim bedding. Yeah, that is probably better than nothing, but it is much better if you relieve an 1/8" or more so it is thick. Drill some holes to help anchor it in place too. A dremel will really make short work of this process. I use a bit that is a little round ball shape that cuts, but not sure the name of that dremel bit as it came with it.

Once you are confident with your skills I think you should get a better stock and do it one more time.
 
I'm not trying to be rude or start and argument, promise... But shoe polish isn't half as good as Johnsons floor wax.... Which I found out recently is about half as good as Acra-Release. But, to each his own.
 
how do you get wax into the chamber & lug recess? Bedding material comes up through the front lug screw hole. If you don't have lug recess, chamber degreased, and release agent applied, you can be in real trouble. Friends brought me their guns to get gobs of glued in bedding material out of the lug recess and chamber. I sent them to the gunsmith, hundreds of dollars later, they were ready to hunt, after waiting for the gunsmith to do a job he really did not want to do, and they got charged a "stupid customer" fee with no apology.

I have seen so many problems with wax, I will not even help a guy that wants to use wax, I tell them to loose my phone number. All it takes is one little tiny area to have bedding stick to where it should not, and it can be a night mare. Ever try and use a jeweler's screwdriver as a chisel? How about a dental pick with stuck bedding in the lug recess, and ruined chambers from trying to dig the bedding material out with a dental pick of some kind.

Spray release agent two coats, after two spray downs with brake cleaner, and you will NEVER have anything but beautiful, easy bedding jobs. Bedding spray release agent is NOT something you should cheap out on!
 
Originally Posted By: ackleymanhow do you get wax into the chamber & lug recess? Bedding material comes up through the front lug screw hole. If you don't have lug recess, chamber degreased, and release agent applied, you can be in real trouble. Friends brought me their guns to get gobs of glued in bedding material out of the lug recess and chamber. I sent them to the gunsmith, hundreds of dollars later, they were ready to hunt, after waiting for the gunsmith to do a job he really did not want to do, and they got charged a "stupid customer" fee with no apology.

I have seen so many problems with wax, I will not even help a guy that wants to use wax, I tell them to loose my phone number. All it takes is one little tiny area to have bedding stick to where it should not, and it can be a night mare. Ever try and use a jeweler's screwdriver as a chisel? How about a dental pick with stuck bedding in the lug recess, and ruined chambers from trying to dig the bedding material out with a dental pick of some kind.

Spray release agent two coats, after two spray downs with brake cleaner, and you will NEVER have anything but beautiful, easy bedding jobs. Bedding spray release agent is NOT something you should cheap out on!

Thanks for the reinforcement! Furthermore, they should have used studs instead of the action screws.... Then the bedding compound couldn't possibly find its way into the recess and chamber.
 
I cut pieces of Styrofoam to fit in the mag hole in the receiver,then modeling clay in everywhere else there is a hole. I put clay anywhere in the stock that I don't want bedding and then everything gets a couple coats of release agent.

And yes use studs to align it with
 
I for the life of me cannot get my head wrapped around the idea of promoting bedding a rifle, but then see how cheap you can do it. Why bother with it then if expense is an issue? Spray release does not cost much.
Bedding can and will flow up into the chamber area and set up with the action/stud screws installed. Modeling clay in recessed area's or vent holes you don't want bedding in is good advice.
If the barrel or action lays against the side of the stock and cannot be moved to center without forcing it then you need to remove material to allow it to move freely before bedding it. Generally that occurs in the lug area of the stock. Then you can wrap the barrel with tape to center it in the forearm. I wrap tape at the end of the forearm and about half way down the forearm. Sporter weight barrels can be forced to one side of the forearm easily only to spring back when the tape is removed, so taping closer to the chamber area will show you if there is more of a gap on one side or the other without the taping forcing only the barrel to move (or a flexable forearm to move).
 
I have bedded many rifles, and have yet to have bedding end up in my chamber. Properly prepare and use clay prior to bedding. You don't bed a rifle with the bolt in it, therefore, there is no excuse to end up with hardened bedding in your chamber. You could see it and clear it after you seat the action.

I have used Kiwi wax all along, it is not a matter of "going cheap", it is using what is readily available…and works.
 
I'm not going to argue with anyone over how they go about bedding a rifle. I should have said that bedding can and will flow into the ramp and lug area. Something I have had happen in the past, but was able to remove easily do to the way I prepare the barreled action before I set it in the bedding.
I'm sure you have bedded several rifles and wouldn't consider challenging you on that, as have I do to my employment. I'm sure it would be much cheaper for the company I work for to use shoe polish for release, it is the spray Accra Release they have us use.
But to each their own.
 
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You can shake your heads and tell me I'm full of it but after waxing (or release agent) the barrel and exterior parts of the action and using Play Doh it fill holes and dam up the stock to keep the flow where I want it, I use cheap cooking spray for the interior of the action. Sometimes I use action studs and sometimes I use the action screws and yes, sometimes it gets into the action but the bedding will not stick to the cooking spray and I take a q-tip and it comes right out. Using studs helps to eliminate the the the oozing into the chamber area. The release agent that comes in the kit works really well and I have some small brush's to apply it. I haven't tried the spray so I can't comment on it.
 
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