Looking at getting my first silencer.

im4flight

im4flight

New member
Hey all,

I am looking at getting my first Silencer.

My 5th year wedding anniversary is coming up in a few months, and my wife wants an outrageously expensive ring, I thought I only had to buy one of those in a lifetime. But I figure she has put up with me for 5 years, so she deserves it. If all I do is have to buy her a ring every 5 years to stick around, I am doing pretty good.

Back to me though, I have talked her into a Silencer in return. I want my first one to go on my AR, it is a 5.56, I shoot mostly .223 through it. If I can, I would like to use on my 10/22 from time to time also. I do reload, so will play around with subsonic rounds as well. I will be using it primarily for hunting; I do like to punch paper with my AR too, so it will be shot pretty regularly.

I have absolutely no experience with cans and would like any and all input you guys will throw at me. Brands, prices, where to buy etc…

I have decided I will be going the trust route, thanks to some posts on here I have read. But that is it. I don’t even have my barrel cut/threaded yet, so anything and everything ya'll can advise me on is possible. Oh, I do have a heavy barrel on my AR if that makes a difference.

Thanks,
 
I would look heavily on Silencer Research and Silencer talk forums for information. There are manufacturers there so you get info straight from the horses mouth, and there is a ridiculous amount of information.

In regards to shooting 22LR through a 223 can, I wouldn't advise it. 22LR is dirty with its lead bullets, and you will want to tear down a can to clean it that has had 22LR shot through it. "MOST" 223 cans do not break down for cleaning, and this can create problems. They are also super heavy compared to a 22LR can. Your best bet, is to get a 223/308 can and 22LR can or a 223/308 can alone. You can use 308 cans on 223's. You may have to use different thread adapters, however.

YHM QD cans are a good value, and the 308 QD suppressor will go onto a 223 QD adapter, so no modification/thread adapters needed.

I just ordered a 223 can (M4SD-locks on a standard A2 flash hider) and magnum rated 22LR can (Checkmate QD) from Griffin Armament. I should have em in hand in ~3months. SWR, YHM, Griffin, and there are several other good suppressor manufacturer "bang for the buck" cans out there if you are on a tighter budget. There are super nice AAC cans, but they're generally twice the cost.

I'm looking at picking up a YHM 308 QD can as well, to use for 6.8, 308, etc.
 
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Thanks for the info JoeBob, I was going to be looking at a can for me .308 next, if I could get one to work with the AR and my .308 that would be even better. I will be looking in that direction now, thanks for sharing.

My .308 is a bull too, and will be getting that barrel cut and threaded at the same time as my AR. So the thread adapter shouldn't be an issue for me. I am assuming that I would still need some kind of mod. kit though to use it on the .223?

As far as cleaning a can, I am pretty retentive about cleaning my rifles, and would assume I would be the same way about my silencer. So does that mean I should be looking at a breakdown option?

I will start looking at some sight specific forums too. I have seen a lot of talk about cans on here recently, and am a big fan of the knowledge shared here, so wanted to start here first.
 
Originally Posted By: im4flightThanks for the info JoeBob, I was going to be looking at a can for me .308 next, if I could get one to work with the AR and my .308 that would be even better. I will be looking in that direction now, thanks for sharing.

My .308 is a bull too, and will be getting that barrel cut and threaded at the same time as my AR. So the thread adapter shouldn't be an issue for me. I am assuming that I would still need some kind of mod. kit though to use it on the .223?

As far as cleaning a can, I am pretty retentive about cleaning my rifles, and would assume I would be the same way about my silencer. So does that mean I should be looking at a breakdown option?

I will start looking at some sight specific forums too. I have seen a lot of talk about cans on here recently, and am a big fan of the knowledge shared here, so wanted to start here first.

Most 223 caliber are cut to a different thread compared to a 308. So, if it were me, I'd cut the 223 to a standard thread and then use a suppressor like the YHM that allowed the same 223 adapter to work on a 308 can, or just use a thread adapter.
 
I would suggest NOT THREADING ANYTHING until you have your suppressor picked out and ordered. Only then will you know for sure what you have coming and only then will you know for sure what grade of threads to send to your gun smith. Besides, you're going to have between 2-3 months to wait once you get it ordered anyway, no rush.

I've said this on other topics, but not all 1/2 x 28 threads are equal (normal threads for .223). You need to contact the mfg of the suppressor you purchase and find out what grade of threads and what the pitch is or they may not honor what is usually a great warranty system.

I'd also recommend the .308 can unless you have the extra $1000 laying around and really want a separate one for each rifle. A .308 will work just find on everything all the way down to .223 and you'll likely never be able to hear the difference. Yes, you COULD use a .223 can for a .22lr but like JoeBob said, I wouldn't recommend it UNLESS you get a take down .223 can...but at the same time, if you're looking to buy 2 cans to cover 3 calibers...I'd go with the .308 for center fire rifle and a dedicated .22lr for rimfire.

If you're dead set on cleaning a center fire can (which is not required until your round count is up in the 1000 area, depending on the model and mfg suggestions)...a take down can is not necessary. Most center fire can's can be cleaned by soaking the internals with WD40 for a couple hours and blowing it out with an air compressor.

Most .22lr cans and other pistol cans are built to be taken apart because the powder fowling is not the only thing that will build up. You'll get a build up of lead gas that will condense into some seriously nasty stuff and you'll want/need to clean it from time to time.

HERE is a post I made just showing the list of Suppressor builders that I like to follow.
There are TONS more and these are by no means recommendations, just the ones I like to keep up with and follow but others as mentioned are Griffin , and even Thompson Machine
 
Thanks Cbass, I was hoping to see you on this thread.

I am planning on holding off on the barrels until I make my other decisions, trying to do it all right the firs time, instead of more time and money later.

I don't want to spend a fortune, but don't plan on buying too many of these in my lifetime, so I do want it to be the right one.

I will check out your other post too, and work on getting through all of these sights posted so far.
 
Cbass, I've never heard the word *grade* used when discussing threads. Can you explain what grade means when used in regards to threads?

Thanks
 
Perhaps my terminology is off a bit. It seems "Classes" and "Grade" are used to describe what to a lay person (ME) are the same, but may be slightly different.

When I got my info from my gun smith, he related it to the same thing as nuts and bolts.
Here is a link that shows the basic info ...but I cant find the thread at SilencerTalk.

As long as you get the info from the builder, you'll be good to go, they usually have them listed on their site.

YHM has them all listed seprately for less confusion
Here is the info for the YHM 308 Phantom

Here is a list of most/all of the AAC supressor specs.

Someone with machine knowledge could probably read them and know the difference in grade/class. I don't, I just know you should get the info from whoever built it and have your smithy do it with all the info.

I had a regular Tom/Dick/Harry thread a 10/22 barrel. Not a gun smith, not a qualified barrel threader, just a machinist. I had him do it in what I understood as "standard" 1/2 x 24 and they came out less than correct. They were the right threads, but the grade/class was wrong and it never stayed tight. I learned the hard way.
 
I bought a Thunderbeast 30p-1. Zak at Thunderbeast answers questions usually within minutes of emailing him anytime of day. They have videos on YouTube shooting a 223 through a 30 caliber suppressor and others. Search TBAC on YouTube.
 
The grade/class generally means just how close it is to the tolerance limits.
Today, the UNF full profile carbide thread cutter is normally compatible with most threads. Just make sure you are not even a tenth over diameter.
It is always best for the person doing the threading to have the nut(can) in hand when threading.

Jack
 
im4,

I messed around quite a bit with a suppressed AR-15 earlier in the week. It was a 14.5" M-4 type that made it like 18 1/2" barrel contour with the suppressor screwed on.

After shooting it quite a bit, I looked at what use I would have for one.

The practical effectiveness was pretty good. It was a tad louder than a 22 magnum. (Out of the 14.5" bbl., that's saying something.) It was still pretty loud because of the speed of the bullet being faster than the speed of sound.

In the area we hunt, with the difference in muzzle blasts, I don't think I would be inclined to throw down $600 for a suppressor.
 
comparing a 14.5" suppressed SBR to a 18-24" suppressed hunting rifle is like comparing apples to loafs of bread.

But...you're right, they aren't for everyone.
 
My AR has a 20" on it, so it would hopefully be a little better. I have heard and seen a lot on them. When I get it, I do expect to be a little dissapointed, but again whenever I can talk the wife into a new toy, it is a good day, and I hold on to it :0).

I don't expect it to be life changing, but fun, and novel if nothing else. Hopefully make hunting more fun too.

Barry, I am still working at it, 2 years now and yet to see a Coyote, I think you need to take me out and show me how this is done at some point :0).
 
I'd be glad to. My advice is right now to wait awhile, until the cold sets in good, and the coyotes are harder pressed to find something to eat. Nothing has been bringing them in real well all fall. They will turn on sooner or later though....

It may be good for you to get to the PM Hunt in las Cruces. I's be glad to take you out hunting there, and the coyotes perhaps will be running to the call by then.
 
I have 2 cans a .22 rimfire and one I switch between my .223 AR and 22-250AI.
I clean mine (.223)with 300-400rds through it by mixing 50/50 vinegar 5% acidity with Hydrogen peroxide 3%.
I cut the top off a water bottle, one big enough for the can to fit uprite (threads up).It will foam a lot.
Let set over nite. You wont beleve all the crap that comes out of it.
Rinse well with water then I use the compressor with air nosil untill no more water comes out.
 
Got it thanks fastfire.

Barry, I am trying to make it up to the hunt. I may have a training for work that week, they are still finalizing the dates will let you know.
 
Originally Posted By: fastfireI clean mine (.223)with 300-400rds through it by mixing 50/50 vinegar 5% acidity with Hydrogen peroxide 3%.
I cut the top off a water bottle, one big enough for the can to fit uprite (threads up).It will foam a lot.
Let set over nite. You wont beleve all the crap that comes out of it.
Rinse well with water then I use the compressor with air nosil untill no more water comes out.


I'm sure that works great and it's a common practice for cleaning suppressors, but be careful with the toxic gunk that it gives off.
Lead Acetate is nothing to joke around with. It is water soluble and should be disposed of with care.
 
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