looking for help finding a load for 9mm

the noobie

the noobie

New member
I am having a hard time finding load data for my 9mm. I am shooting a browning hi power. CCI SP primers, mixed brass, plated 135 grain RNFP bullets, Hodgon tite group powder.

Most I could find online was that tite group seemed to work good for this job. But I also have some clays to experiment with.

I can't find any min/max load data and don't really want to just wing it with Tite group. I also can't find anything on COAL. Anyone point me in the right direction?
 
The hodgdon site has Titegroup data for 130 & 147 grn bullets. I would look that over to interpolate a middle ground, away from max.

The other option is to email Hodgdon with your question & request data. I use TG powder with 115 grn bullets in the 9mm, works fine.
 
135gr is an odd weight for the 9mm and I would do as suggested with adopting a mid load between most published information....

You might also want to look for some Ramshot Silhouette powdeer...that's what I use in my 9mm, .40s, and 10mms..The 9mms take 5.1gr for a really accurate load for my Sig, using a 115gr bullet..

I'm just guessing, but with 135gr, you will probably come in with a 4.7-4.9gr powder weight..If you work them up from a lower starting charge level...
 
Just to be clear, the above 4.7-4.9 reference is for the Ramshot powder.

I use 4.2 grns of Titegroup powder with my 115 grn plated RN. Works just fine and averages 1087 FPS.
 
So for 130 grain they are saying 3.5-3.9
147 grain they only have one listed for an XTP bullet at 3.2-3.6

Would it be safe to just start at 3.2 and work up?

How should I go about determining my COAL. Read somewhere where a guy reccomended getting soot on the bullet and chambering it. If there were any rub marks it was the bullet contacting the riflings. Thoughts?


Reason I have Titegroup and Clays is its all I can find. I was going to grab some Unique at Wallmart but someone beat me too it. Titegroup is really hot and Clays sounds like its a lot slower. Wish I could find a powder in the middle ground. Ill just try this for now. See what I think and if need be I can experiment with different bullets and powders later.



I contacted The bullet maker they told me to check a Speer manual. I checked the 3 speer manuals we own and the one I found at the store and it had nothing. Ill email Hodgon and see what they can give me.
 
I'd work a little closer to the low side of the 130 grn lead data. The 3.2 grn may be light. The 1st indication will be failure to cycle the action. Only load a small amount until you test them.

You can take your barrel out of the gun & see how the loaded rounds 'plunk' into the chamber. They should drop in & seat easily. Another powder to keep an eye out for is Win-231(HP-38).

There is room for 'reasonable interpolation' with reloading. The problem is the definition of reasonable varies with some.
 
If I was more familiar with reloading and had a better general idea on how different powder/projectile/COAL combos would effect pressures I would feel safer with experimenting. I just like to check double check then ask and get a general oppinion to play it safe and not turn a gun into a hand grenade.

The Hi Power does have a stout recoil spring so I am guessing it will need a bit of a hotter load to function 100%. Think ill start at 3.35 3.4 and see what she does there.

Wish I had a chrony but I am hoping to be able to push the 135 grain bullets faster than 963 fps. To make a 130 power factor Think one could do so safely? Hornady lists their 135 grain +P defense loads are pushing 1100 FPS but I dont want to be in the +P pressure range with this gun. If all else fails it should easily make 125 which is just fine.
 
Quote:Would it be safe to just start at 3.2 and work up?...That would be the safe way to start...I usually load five rounds of each powder charge (.1gr increments), starting at the bottom and working up...Providing that they function the action, keep a close eye on the extracted cases before moving up to the next one..If you concentrate at reasonable ranges you will also find your most accurate and it may not be at max charge level...

You need to pull up a Burn Rate chart on powders if you are going to change powders so you will have an idea as what to expect...Bulls Eye is a relative fast powder,,,,VV powders can be quite a bit slower...On the fast powders, a very small amount can produce some dangerous conditions pretty quick...
HERE is a pretty decent Burn Rate Chart...I like it because it also compares one brand to another in the event you need to substitute....

9mms, as most other straight wall pistol rounds will head space on the rim of the case, rather than the bullet...If you plan on loading a lot of them (very seldom do they need trimming), a case check gauge is a good investment...usually $10-15..Just stick with the published OAL for the cartridge and you will be fine...

I have one .40 s&w match barrel that is fully supported and so tight that reloads on cases that have been shot out of a Glock (or other non-supported chamber) will not function, even though they pass the check gauge test..I have to keep all of that brass separate from the rest, and mark the boxes accordingly..
 
emailing Hogdon is going to be the most likely way to put your mind at ease. I use a lot of Titegroup in 9mm loads. I think 3.2 is going to be real iffy starting point on the low side because of not being stout enough to cycle. Load just two. Fire one and check to find a hole somewhere in the target BEFORE you pull the trigger on the 2nd reload. Next, with the safety on, look the gun over to make sure it fully cycled. Sometimes in our haste and nerves to test a new load we don't spend enough time to check for holes in the target and that the gun cycled. Until later. and then we have one of those DAAAAYYUUMMM moments
 


Write your reply...
Back
Top