Math Experts

Hogghead, why the harsh words directed at zilla? I don't know his intent, but I read his response as a statement of the obvious, directed not at you, but at the readers following this thread. A few good-natured souls are climbing thru their you-know-whats to reverse engineer your load data and two very(possibly most) important pieces of data missing are chronograph and scope height. Without these I have to agree with zilla...'Otherwise all we're doin is makin a a scientific wild a** guess.'

I hope you get the info you need and everything works out fine - Warren
 
If it were me i wouldn't even worry too much about mv if you're thinking of keeping it or selling it. A fast twist 22-250 capacity case shooting 75-80 A-Max accurately has to be one of the finest long-range (to 600 or so) varminting combinations out there really--great accuracy capability and right at the edge of the "overbore" threshold with decent case life. I have 1 myself that i'll be using for coyotes next season probably--

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Originally Posted By: HOGGHEADOriginally Posted By: zillaIt'd be real helpful IF we had some chrony data.. Otherwise all we're doin is makin a a scientific wild a** guess.



It would also be "real helpful" if you bothered to read the thread before you make a comment like that. Especially the part where I specifically said my chrono is broken?? But then why confuse the issue with the facts?? Sorry I did not meet your expectations. Tom.


excuse me for pointing out the obvious.. You want us to do all your work for ya.. If it is that important go set up targets at 100, 200, 300, 400, 500 yds etc and see exactly what your trajectory is.. No amount of math is going to give you your true trajectory without real velocity..
 
Originally Posted By: zillaOriginally Posted By: HOGGHEADOriginally Posted By: zillaIt'd be real helpful IF we had some chrony data.. Otherwise all we're doin is makin a a scientific wild a** guess.



It would also be "real helpful" if you bothered to read the thread before you make a comment like that. Especially the part where I specifically said my chrono is broken?? But then why confuse the issue with the facts?? Sorry I did not meet your expectations. Tom.


excuse me for pointing out the obvious.. You want us to do all your work for ya.. If it is that important go set up targets at 100, 200, 300, 400, 500 yds etc and see exactly what your trajectory is.. No amount of math is going to give you your true trajectory without real velocity..




I am also pretty sure I explained why I could not go back to the range also. Do you even bother to read the thread?? And I do not remember asking you to "do all the work for me". Just a little help and a discussion. SHHEEESSSSHHHHH. Tom.
 
Originally Posted By: sscoyoteSomeone already mentioned the true click value, but u may also want to consider the drag function used to calculate the BC of that VLD bullet. Most ballistics programs use a G1 drag function, but some such as JBM can use different drag functions that more closely match the bullet types (VLD to VLD such as you have there). Check it on JBM and adjust the drag function for G7 and see what the velocity and drops come out.

Tom--u need to go to JBM and study those systems. It is a great resource for LR shooting and making (the most) accurate calcs. I couldn't null out the trjectory for my AR using a 65 JLK Low Drag for love or money and finally started adjusting the drag function until my data matched as closely as possible and i finally had it then.




I am sure you are right about that. I often question the BC that a manufacturer gives for their bullet. And we know that changes with different velocities of the same bullet. I did not think about slightly adjusting the BC in the ballistics calculator I was using. I will give that a try, and see if I can get a bit closer.

However most of what I have been able to find out has been for a velocity of 3400 fps with the 75 -Max. And I thought that velocity was unobtainable by the standard 22-250. But I have had a few comments from some guys who say they are actually getting as much as 3450 in the 22-250 with the 75 A-Max and H-414.

The way I figured 3400 fps was trial and error of all the variables that are "known" in this scenario. Kind of a fun thing to toy around with. I didn't mean to ruffle any feathers. I guess a few guys don't want to join in on the conversation. They just want to ridicule my motives?? Not sure why?? But it is a free country.

As far as selling the rifle. I was going to. But I did not get the price I felt it was worth. So I have decided to hunt with the rifle. Even if it is a bit heavier than what I prefer. I can deal with the weight. Especially since my Kawasaki Kule will be doing all the carrying. Thanks to the guys who spent a little time trying to help. I am going to try and get out to hunt a few times this year, and the hay is down in one of my favorite spots. And shots to 600 in these meadows is regular shooting. And my 22-250 is sighted in well to 500 and looking good to 600, so she is ready to hunt. I just wanted to have a little better understaning of the 100 to 200 yard shots, and thus the question. Heck we all know it is going to be in the 3" area at 100 yards from our past experience without shooting the first shot or making the first calculation. I just thought it might be fun to work it backwards. Sorry if it offended anyone. I am going to turn her loose!! Thanks, Tom.
 
my program (PCB) agrees with old turtle's

PCB 1.8 Trajectory chart.

Bullet name..................... Hornady A-MAX
Bullet weight................... 75 grains
Bullet diameter................. 0.224 inches
Muzzle velocity................. 3200 ft/sec
Ballistic coefficient........... 0.435
Line of sight above bore axis... 1.50 inches
Zero............................ 0.0 inches at 300.0 yards
Crosswind....................... 0.0 mph from 0 degs
Temperature..................... 80 deg F
Altitude........................ 1000 ft
Sights zeroed at 0 degs
Firing angle.................... 0 deg
Cant angle...................... 0 deg


Range Velocity Energy Flight Drop Maks Path Drift Click Click
time height up side
[yds] [ft/s] [ft.lbs] [ins] [ins] [ins] [ins]
===============================================================================
50 3093 1593 0.048 0.4 -0.5 1.3 0.0 -9.9 0.0
100 2989 1487 0.097 1.8 -0.1 3.1 0.0 -12.2 0.0
150 2887 1388 0.148 4.1 0.5 4.0 0.0 -10.5 0.0
200 2788 1294 0.201 7.4 1.4 3.8 0.0 -7.5 0.0
250 2690 1205 0.256 11.9 2.6 2.5 0.0 -3.9 0.0
300 2595 1121 0.313 17.6 4.1 -0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
350 2502 1042 0.371 24.5 6.1 -3.7 0.0 4.2 0.0
400 2411 968 0.432 32.9 8.5 -8.9 0.0 8.8 0.0
450 2321 897 0.496 42.7 11.3 -15.5 0.0 13.6 0.0
500 2234 831 0.562 54.2 14.7 -23.9 0.0 18.9 0.0
550 2148 769 0.630 67.5 18.7 -33.9 0.0 24.4 0.0
600 2065 710 0.702 82.5 23.3 -45.8 0.0 30.2 0.0

 
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Maybe this is what you're after? A series of steps:
Step 1: INCHES/DISTANCE = MOA
Step 2: MOA/SCOPE ADJUST INCREMENTS(For 1/4" @ a 100 yards use .25 and for 1/8" @ a 100 use .125)
An example: You are shooting 9" low @ 375 yards

Step 1: 9 inch divided by 375 yards is calc'd: 9/3.75 = 2.4 MOA
Step 2: (Say we are using a scope that moves the crosshairs 1/4" @ 100 yards) 2.4 MOA/.25 = 9.6 clicks up on scope to be dead on at 375 yards

Maybe this can help
 
With the scope 1.5" above the CL of the bore...the 75gr Amax at 3200 fps=
100yds...3.1 hi
200yds...3.8 hi
300 yds....0
400 yds...-9.20
500 yds....-24.7
600 yds.....-47.6
700 yds...-79.3

and so on.
 
Tom, I did exactly what you're looking for by taking know range clicks and backing into a velocity using JBM. Look up your altitude and weather conditions, find your BC from the manufacturers site. Measure the center of the scope tube to the center of the bore using a caliper. Then put in a starting velocity and adjust up and down. When you get close, adjust the BC and sight height by .1 here and there and viola.
 
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