Millett angle lock ex-high rings any good?
- Thread starter skeetlee
- Start date
Ridge Runner
New member
I use alot of millett's, good rings for the money, just be sure and center your scope adjustments, then center the front ring on the base, use the rear ring for windage till ya get it real close.
RR
RR
SodakJim
New member
Quote:
I use alot of millett's, good rings for the money, just be sure and center your scope adjustments, then center the front ring on the base, use the rear ring for windage till ya get it real close.
RR
I think you should move BOTH rings to get them lined up to the bore. You don't want to have torque on the scope tube when the bases are tight on the rail. The front base doesn't pivot like a Leupold STD base. If the scope doesn't lay in the tighten bases squarely, you may need to move one or both rings till they do. At the same time, the centered scope should should line up with the bore sighter. Lapping may may be advisable to get the best fit on the rings.
I use alot of millett's, good rings for the money, just be sure and center your scope adjustments, then center the front ring on the base, use the rear ring for windage till ya get it real close.
RR
I think you should move BOTH rings to get them lined up to the bore. You don't want to have torque on the scope tube when the bases are tight on the rail. The front base doesn't pivot like a Leupold STD base. If the scope doesn't lay in the tighten bases squarely, you may need to move one or both rings till they do. At the same time, the centered scope should should line up with the bore sighter. Lapping may may be advisable to get the best fit on the rings.
Ridge Runner
New member
unless theres a milling problem with the reciever, ya center the front ring on the rail, tighten it, leave the rear ring a bit loose, mount scope, hook up the boresighter, use the ring adjustments on the rear to make lateral zero, the rings should be centered. Am I correct?
RR
RR
SodakJim
New member
Quote:
unless theres a milling problem with the reciever, ya center the front ring on the rail, tighten it, leave the rear ring a bit loose, mount scope, hook up the boresighter, use the ring adjustments on the rear to make lateral zero, the rings should be centered. Am I correct?
RR
Just using the rear ring windage adjustment can put the scope tube in a bind because the front mount dosn't pivot. These rings can only move left and right, so you need to move them together to line them up with the boresighter centerline. The scope should lay in the tighten bases squarely to the bottom of the radius without the ring tops installed. At this point the scope should line up with the boresighter. If it doesn't you move both mounts left or right till they do. If your lapping the rings, this is the time to do it. If your not lapping, install the ring top halfs and re-check the bore sighting. The final adjustments are made in the scope when sighting in the rifle.
unless theres a milling problem with the reciever, ya center the front ring on the rail, tighten it, leave the rear ring a bit loose, mount scope, hook up the boresighter, use the ring adjustments on the rear to make lateral zero, the rings should be centered. Am I correct?
RR
Just using the rear ring windage adjustment can put the scope tube in a bind because the front mount dosn't pivot. These rings can only move left and right, so you need to move them together to line them up with the boresighter centerline. The scope should lay in the tighten bases squarely to the bottom of the radius without the ring tops installed. At this point the scope should line up with the boresighter. If it doesn't you move both mounts left or right till they do. If your lapping the rings, this is the time to do it. If your not lapping, install the ring top halfs and re-check the bore sighting. The final adjustments are made in the scope when sighting in the rifle.
