moly coated bullets

S

Spike

New member
I finally found a box of 65gr vmax in 243 cal. what I did not see was they were moly coated, the price sticker was over the moly statement. I want to remove the moly from the bullets. I'm hoping to hear from some one that actually has been success /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gifful removing moly from bullets.
thanks for replies spike
 
If you have a vibratory tumbler just dump them in the tumler with treated corn or walnut media. After maybe 1/2 hour all that will be left will be a slight discoloration.
 
Tumble it off..........corn media will take it right off. the plastic tips will still have a little on them but it will wipe off. I know I made the same mistake.
Its messy, doesn't reduce barrel wear, is a huge PITA to clean out when you decide that it truly does suck, doesn't make your gun shoot straighter, longer, better and maybe only very slightly cooler.
 
dtech
skb2706, thanks for the information, I have a tumbler and will use it. a few years ago I tried the liquid cleaner for brass and was not happy with it.

xpert rifleman, I tried moly when it first came out and was not happy with it. some people swear by it and others swear at it. to each his own. spike
 
I shoot moly coated in my .223. I haven't found it to affect accuracy to any degree at all. I can't testify as to it increasing barrel life. I've heard pros & cons regarding extending barrel life, but I haven't worn one out yet, so I can't comment. I do know 2 things about molycoated bullets for an absolute fact, though.

1) Given the same powder charge, molycoated bullets will actually turn out less velocity than a standard jacketed round. (Less friction = less pressure = less velocity). In the .223 Rem, with equal powder charges, the moly round will travel, on average, 100 fps less.

2) Barrel fouling, while not completely eliminated, is so greatly reduced as to be pretty much a non-issue while on a pdog hunt. I have actually fired my .223 over 250 times without punching the bore while over a dogtown, and still managed to get sub-3/4" 5 shot groups with it.

As far as a moly build up? It cleans out much easiser than copper fouling, and I usually clean my bore thoroughly after a dog shoot anyway. It just keeps me from having to clean so much while in the field, and it does seem to help somewhat with barrel heating issues.

Mike
 
i removed moly from a batch of blitz kings last year.
all i used was a small cup and about three quartersof an inch of Kroil in it. put several bullets in so they are covered w/ kroil and let stand for 20 minutes.swish around a bit and youll be able to see if the stuff is coming off. wipe them off individually, and your all set.

( i dont own a tumbler)

jim k
 
linefinder...you bring up a good point about moly, I've never heard any comparison to moly vs. copper removal but that could be a REALLY good point. How many of you have had to remove copper and found that to be a chore? I've had lots of copper problems with a hot-rod 22-250Ai and think maybe you are right, it's much easier to remove the unwanted moly than to get rid of the copper and with the moly I HAVE NEVER found the accuracy to be less than without it and with copper in the barrel ...well, we all know what that does to accuracy!
 
Just my thoughts on moly. I shoot a lot of rounds per year. I shoot non moly in everything but one situation, usually never go over 15-20 rds through a rifle before cleaning. and most time that is at the range. i take the rifles i want to shoot and a cleaning kit with me, i clean the rifles while they are still warm and the copper comes out fast. The only reason i shoot the molys in the other circumstance is for competition. We will go through 80 rounds during a CMP match. with the time spent scoring for the other shooters in my lane, the time i spend shooting and the time spent pulling targets on my lane there is no time for cleaning. When i get homoe and try to clean it, the moly is difficult to remove. but not any more so than the copper from 80 rounds used to take before moly came out. Why moly then? because the accuracy stay up longer. the last leg of the shoot, is 22(2 sighters-20 for score) rounds from prone at 600 yds. we have 20 minutes to fire these. and this is after 66 rounds for other positions. barrels get hot and fouled bad. the moly seems to cut down on this problem. I think it all boils down to what you are more confident in. Which you would rather clean, moly or copper. Just my opinion, but one i thought some readers would like to see.
 
I would have to agree with the some love it and some don't. 17, I don't know about accuracy and all that cleaning. As I stated in a post before, my friend and I shoot PD's every year. We both use the same rifles in .220 Swift with the same loads. His are moly and mine are not. Don't see any difference in accuracy and we have run them as high as 500 rds or so.

I ran 700 rds through a sniper rifle once to check this and it would still do 1.5 inches for 5-shots at 500 yds without cleaning. I will say that some rifle barrels will foul and foul bad so cleaning them is a must. However, for the most part I had not seen this to be the case.
 
I've tried pretty much every brand/type of copper removal product on the market. Some work, some don't. My favorite, if I have the time to use it, is Wipe Out with Accelerator, but...while the end result is great, best results are obtained after an overnight soaking.
My 2nd favorite is Sweet's, though, if the copper fouling is severe, I've had to use it as much as 4 times to get a "clean patch". But, since, once again, no brushes are involved, it's my everyday "go-to" cleaner.
For cutting copper in a hurry, the best I've found is the combination of Shooters Choice MC-7 and Shooters Choice Copper Remover. This one requires the use of a bore brush, so, I pretty well limit it's use to "field-cleaning" while over a pdog town.
The products listed above work well for my 6mm Rem after firing non-moly bullets. For my .223, in which I fire only moly bullets, 1 application of Sweets, (without a brush), is all I've ever had to do to strip the moly from the bore.

As I've said, my opinion on moly bullets is strictly relative to their "ease of cleaning" role, and, to a lesser degree, the relatively less barrel heat generated by using them.

Mike
 
Steve I think we are in agreement on this. But I probably didn't explain the reason I clean at the bench. Not for barrel life,not for accuracy, but for expediency. I have to drive about 40 miles to get to a range to shoot. We dont have prairie dogs. The reason i shoot as much as i do is for pleasure. I reload. I am constantly playing with loads. I will take 2-3 guns and try different loads in each. usually take 20 rounds of the same loading for each rifle. after i have fired the 20 in one particular rifle i will clean it and put it in the truck. get the next and do the same for it. till I am through for the day. when i get home i dont have to clean all three rifles into the night. now these guns may not get shot again for a month or so while i am figuring what load i want to try next. . The competition loads in my ar15 are Seirra 77gr molymatch king. the gun likes them. after going to moly in this particular rifle, my 600 yd scores went up about 8-10 points. maybe i got better at shooting maybe it was the moly. I havent had the urge to go back to non moly and see what it will do. The point i was trying tomake is that either way youwill have to clean the gun when you are through with shooting it for the day. I havent noticed it is any easier with or without the moly. each barrel fouls differently.
 
Quote:
What technique/procedure works best for cleaning moly out of barrels?



Just to knock the coating down somewhat, I've found plain old Sweet's followed by dry patches works just fine, and tht is the method I usually employ. If you want to strip it out completely (which I rarely see any need to do), the 2 part Shooters Choice treatment, with the bronze brush will strip it bare in a hurry.

Mike

edit - With the Sweet's only method, I apply the Sweets with a loose fitting patch on a loop jag. The dry patches are tight fitting and pushed through with a spear-tip jag. My final step is one patch through the bore with alcohol, and let it dry, followed by one last patch slightly dampened with Kroil.
 
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Hey, 17shooter. I just noticed you're from Shreveport. I just moved here to Colorado Springs from West Monroe last July. Sure is a different world up here!

Mike
 
Linefinder, I had a sister lived in Colorado Springs for last ten years, gone to california now. has an Air Force husband. She wants to get back to Colorado when he retires. I went to visit some, and yes it is different.
 


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