Mounting ARCA plate to bolt action
- Thread starter Darknight
- Start date
Synthetic stock? Is there enough clearance and material for the hardware you're going to use to hold it there?
I was going to do that to my .243 Winchester mdl 70 w/Hogue stock but decided against it. When I plan on using that rifle I’ll use the tripod clamp attachment with the ARCA plate on the clamp. I was not convinced there was enough material to tap into for mounting screws and not enough clearance for a thru bolt type attachment.
The gun, scope and IR light are just too heavy, and expensive, for me to rely on my questionable gunsmithing ability. The number of times I’m going to use the .243, the clamp will be fine. If you do it I’d be interested in seeing how you accomplished it.
I was going to do that to my .243 Winchester mdl 70 w/Hogue stock but decided against it. When I plan on using that rifle I’ll use the tripod clamp attachment with the ARCA plate on the clamp. I was not convinced there was enough material to tap into for mounting screws and not enough clearance for a thru bolt type attachment.
The gun, scope and IR light are just too heavy, and expensive, for me to rely on my questionable gunsmithing ability. The number of times I’m going to use the .243, the clamp will be fine. If you do it I’d be interested in seeing how you accomplished it.
bohunr
Well-known member
my gunsmith put a small arca plate on my savage 22 mag. he carved out a spot on the inside of the synthetic stock to hold a metal plate of the same size, then epoxied and bolted it together. so far it holds up well even when i attach it to my tripod and carry all of it over my shoulder.
it has a bull barrel and is heavy.
it has a bull barrel and is heavy.
It is not hard. I use T-NUTS. In plastic I get my location figured out getting as close to the center of gravity as I can, usually this is near the front action screw. I get the holes drilled then pack the inside with JB weld, I then push a piece of all thread rod from the outside through it, clean the threads,screw on the T-NUT and pull the t-nut down until it if flush with the stock. I do the clean up inside and out, grease up a screw and make sure the threads are good and clean. After it is set up your good to go. Now if you decide to remove it all you'll see is a threaded holes from the outside. 1/4x20 is what I use.
If wood just drill the holes and countersink the inside getting the depth right. most hardware stores will have them in the bolt aisle.
Good luck
If wood just drill the holes and countersink the inside getting the depth right. most hardware stores will have them in the bolt aisle.
Good luck
BBK
Well-known member
Drill your holes
dremel/ counter sink out the inside of the stock so your nuts will recess in
Dry fit everything to make sure it fits well
Use Jb weld on the nuts and run the bolts back in. Alternatively you can heat the nuts and melt them into your stock, after drilling holes. Use a bolt with the nut on it to do this so the threads stay clear.
Depending on outside contour of the stock and length of rail, you may need to use a belt or disc sander to flatten the stock slightly so the rail has enough contact area. Be sure to check stock thickness first
dremel/ counter sink out the inside of the stock so your nuts will recess in
Dry fit everything to make sure it fits well
Use Jb weld on the nuts and run the bolts back in. Alternatively you can heat the nuts and melt them into your stock, after drilling holes. Use a bolt with the nut on it to do this so the threads stay clear.
Depending on outside contour of the stock and length of rail, you may need to use a belt or disc sander to flatten the stock slightly so the rail has enough contact area. Be sure to check stock thickness first
I have done it to 2 Gen 1's. Did as BBK says but used 2-part epoxy. I did not flatten the stocks, and they tightened just fine with no movement. I suggest that you get the plate back as far as possible to help with the balance on the tripod, just don't block access to the action screw and mag well.
You boys are an inspiration! Especially you Bohunr, I did just what you said your gunsmith did and it worked out very well! Used a Dremel with a cutting bit and removed the raised "web" material inside of the synthetic stock foregrip channel. Relieved enough so I had room for an 3/8" aluminum plate. Drilled 2 holes in the aluminum plate to match the ARCA plate holes, tapped them and epoxied in the plate then installed the ARCA plate with 2 10x24 stainless screws. Came out great and it is solid as a rock. Thanks much for your reply, it made me take a longer second look at what I wanted to accomplish. Guess I'll be using the .243 more than I thought.
Spurchaser
Well-known member
Someone makes a plate that specifically fits the Gen2… ant remember who though. Comes with instructions and tools to do the job.
SupressYourself
Well-known member
Nice work.
Salmon River Solutions makes a number of different combo rails. I put this one on my boys Ruger Gen 1. SRS Arca + PIC – Salmon River Solutions
I used the sling stud hole as the front hole, drilled a second one further back, and used a T nut on the inside.
It's a bit of a compromise as it's not as far back as you'd typically want to mount a tripod, but at the same time, it allows you to shoot freehand without the rail in the way.
Salmon River Solutions makes a number of different combo rails. I put this one on my boys Ruger Gen 1. SRS Arca + PIC – Salmon River Solutions
I used the sling stud hole as the front hole, drilled a second one further back, and used a T nut on the inside.
It's a bit of a compromise as it's not as far back as you'd typically want to mount a tripod, but at the same time, it allows you to shoot freehand without the rail in the way.
bohunr
Well-known member
that looks almost like the plate i have on my 22 mag. good job
spotstalkshoot
Well-known member
The synthetic stock on my TC dimension has a very stiff forend. All I did was drill and tap(1/4-20) the stock as close to the front action screw and still have both bolts in the channel. I measured carefully so I didn't need to remove any of the support ribs. Correct length bolts slip fit the arca plate, thread thru the forend and have a nut/star washer. No flex and the bolt has support the entire way thru the material, cannot loosen. No crush or pressure.