MPBR Question and some pics of my new rigs

roadkill46

roadkill46

New member
thought some pics would be nice, but does anyone on here use Maximum Point Blank Effective Range on their rifles? I have all my life been using an improvised type of this without knowing it. My question is, if you do subscribe to using MPBR and let's say Hornady Vmaxx 33 grain .223 and all the other information you put into the ballistics calculator says that you should zero at 213 yards and your MPBR is 335 yards, do you actually site in at the 213 yards? If i were to do that at our actual range i would have to take the long wheel tape and measure, pissing everyone off, etc. better to take my portable table and rest out to the desert and measure it off. Anyway if anyone uses this method, which is great with no holdover/under used at all unless farther than the MPBR, let me know how you zero. thanx in advance!!!
first pic new Savage 10FP-SR, B&C tact medalist, .308, S&B 1.1-4x24 short dot, shooting 150 grain Fusion ammo
second pic Bushmaster Predator Vortex optics and magnifier, shooting 55 grain Vmaxx ballistic tips.
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Modified Mojo Critter Works Perfect:
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I keep the MPBR in mind when setting my optics...For instance, my .204 CZ is equipped with a Leupold 4.5-14x Varmint Hunter's reticle with the initial cross hair calibrated for 300 yards and stadia lines for 400, 500, and 600 yards..

By using the JBM ballistic calculator and feeding in the specific information, with target ranges at 50, 100 and 200 yards and receiving my trajectory outputs in 50 yard increments, I know that my round should be having a point of impact at various locations on the target at the distances our target stands are set at the Benchrest Club...

To achieve a 300 yard zero, my point of impact at 100 yards should be +2.7" above my point of aim...Very similar to the picture below...the SA notations were for "Scope Adjustments" using the bottom of the diamond as a Point of Aim to bring the Point of impact into the center..Since my targets are set at a known distance, I don't need to use odd distances to achieve the same information...After achieving the initial setting, it's simply a matter of shooting at the other target distances to verify that the spacing is as indicated...

Since the round will be used initially for Prairie Dogs, I need to keep the rise/fall of the bullet trajectory within 5" , if possible and if I'm going to use it for Coyotes, I will reset it for a 200 yard zero and still keep the MPBR within a 3" kill zone..but not be concerned about shooting the longer distances...

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The two larger holes were identified as .308..
 
I was also wondering about the backwards rail on the savage...why the great glass in such a low power for that platform?
 
the weaver base can go on either way according to how much eye relief you need. shows it both ways on the package insert. reason for 1x4 optics? i only shoot predators, no elk, deer etc due to an extended vacation with Uncle Sam i can't shoot anything bigger than a dog. where i hunt is deep SW AZ and there are really no shots that present past 300 yards and i'm good on that scope at that range. most of my 59 dogs last year were with the shotgun and DC loads anyway. I absolutely hate shooting paper for groups, find it boring as sin, so i choose a low power optic and stalk or wait until they are in my range. i only use a 3 power mag on my AR's with Eotechs and Aimpoints and one with a Vortex and still shoot to 300 without issue.
had me worried on the scope base but reading helps and it clears everything so it is fine.
Oh and the "great glass at such a low power" was a gift. I'm not about to spend $2500 plus the $200 for the LaRue SPR-e it came with. Coast guard up until a few years ago used this scope on their M14's to take out fast mover boats, part of the story on how i got it as a gift. good enough for them, good enough for me for minute of coyote.
 
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I've been using, and teaching mpbr for hunting rifles for years. It's not a tool for benchrest by any means. And you have to remember that a calculator gets you close, test firing gets you where you want to be.

So 1st thing. MPBR isn't determined by your rifle/caliber/bullet etc. It's determined by your target size.

2nd. If you plug numbers into your calculator it will give you an approximate zero. It will also tell you how high to be at any other range. So 0 at 254, but 1.3" high at 100. If you have a 100 yard range just adjust scope so you're 1.3" over POA and you have the 254 zero. On paper anyway test fire yada yada yads.

So quick primer. You have an animal with an 8" vital area. To be safe you want to limit your MPBR target area to 6". Working around a dead center hold (bullseye of a 6" target). What you're looking for is the maximum range that your bullet NEVER goes more than 3" higher than point of aim, and NEVER goes lower than 3" below POA. The range that the bullet drops below that 3" mark is your MPRB.

At what distance either of those points happens is dependent on the bullet load etc, and adjusting anything will likely move your MPBR a bit.

For deer and goats most of my hunting rifles fall into a range of 350'ish yards. If I'm elk hunting, due to the larger vital area, same rifle may hit 400+.

If the rifle pretty much follows what the calculator puts out, just find where you should be at 100 and set so your POI is the right number of inches above POA. When I set my scopes I use 2 stickers, 1 to aim at and 1 above it to actually hit. As long as I'm aiming low and hitting high, meat in the freezer. Or dead prairie dog
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thanx, yeah i know the theory and all, i was just wondering if if anyone used the actual yardage the ballistics program spit out say "zero at 213 for 300 MPBR" or measured out on a 100 yard target. i like the 2 sticker idea and will go with that i think next week to the range. I have been doing MPBR without knowing it since i've been hunting, just kinda automatic when i used to zero i would keep going back until it dropped down to an unsatisfactory zero and stopped there. the calculators make it a lot easier to figure it out but i know i have to shoot to ensure. Thanx!
 


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