I just finished stripping the blueing and cleaning the surface rust off a shotgun barrel so now I am ready to start my paint job. Should I reblue it before starting to airbrush it or just leave it bare?
Stop by your local NAPA auto parts store and spend $10 on a rattle can of "Self Etching" primer....A couple of light coats, let them dry thoroughly, sand out any small imperfections and then apply your Krylon, etc...
The primer is OD green and bonds really well to metal...Here's a series of prep to an AR after I had the DuraCoat taken off...
After Bead Blasting
Primed
Painted
Old 10mm 1911 that wasn't worth rebluing..But looks better primed...
Quote:Why did you remove the DuraCoat?...
When I was first getting ready to airbrush it on, I called the tech at DuraCoat and he indicated that I didn't need to prime before painting...
This was the first paint job,,
After a couple of years of use, Prairie Dogs and Shooting Ranges, the paint began to chip off and repairing it and having it look good was just not an option due to the color scheme...I wound up with obvious repair spots...I'm too anal for that...
I used to own and operate a small bead blasting shop for working on stuff from antiques to bicycle frames and always found priming insured a better paint job..
In order to paint a gun, Firstly you have to brush painting reason while this is the brush strokes in the gun. Try to keep the paint as thin as possible in this step. After that, make sure that front head of the gun does make contact with the barrel when in place and when you assemble the gun it slides across this area.
I have used Gunkote on several pistols, my Mossy 500, and a friend's muzzle loader and never primed, mainly because of the baking step. If you have an oven big enough and don't mind solid colors, I really can't recommend Gunkote loudly enough. It cures hard as a rock and has never chipped or scuffed despite my shotgun being abused pretty hard.