paper tuning

COYKILL

COYKILL

New member
I have read a lot about paper tuning and some say don't waste your time. My broadheads and field points are shooting the same so should I still paper tune it anyway to see or is it best to leave it alone. I always say if it works don't fix it. If I do paper tune it and it isn't good then if I make a correction my field points and broadheads may shoot different. I have also read a lot of the distance to put the paper from you and there was never a set distance as a lot of people say different distances.
 
I used to work in a bow shop and we would paper tune every bow we sold and give the paper to the customer. Some bows just don't tune well, I would try everything and I could not get then to shoot clean holes or you would have to move the rest so far in or out to make it shoot a clean hole that the customer would not be happy. I would just move back from the paper until I shot a clean hole. Man is sounds bad now but back then the boss was on you and you had limited time to set up a bow.

I think paper tuning is great along with bare shaft tuning, but If my arrows are shooting well and have good flight and I am not setting up a 3d or target bow I would not mess with it.

If the bow is shooting well and you are grouping well, don't change something just to change something.
 
Dont do anything to it if it's shooting straight. If you shoot it through paper 90% of the time it's not going to look pretty on paper.
 
EVERYONE should at least check it on paper. The newer compounds (I'm assuming you're using a compound here?) are WAY easier to set-up tune than they used to be with them all being centershot-cut and such. One's I set up years ago, were much more picky than newer models, but you should check it anyhow. You may learn something interesting that helps you out in the field. And if it IS well-tuned as everyone here wants to believe, you will only have to shoot a few shots to prove it,and not change anything. Gets you to understand your bow and the workings of it too.

JMHO.
 
I shot pro-3D for years and worked in an archery shop. Paper tuning only drove me crazy. If you are getting good arrow flight, leave it alone. I've seen bare shafts shoot a clean hole and not fly work a crap when fletched. IMO, it is a waste of time, but what do I know.
 
there is a huge misconception that when paper tuning that you only tune the bow--- wrong-- set it up to spec.. once it's correct it's all about tuning the arrow.. when you buy an arrow it is spined for certain weights- however its only and average-- you may need a longer arrow- or a SHORTER ARROW - or a lighter or stiffer spine--- just have to keep working it out-- I used to start with a softer spine and start my lenghth 2" longer than I needed and cut it down in 1/4" increments till I shot a perfect hole--- another thing to mention is distance from paper--- 3'-6' then 20yrds.
 
Another thing about a bow is that you may be gripping it wrong.If you are putting torque on one side,you may never get good flight results.
 


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