Please help me with my Savage 110

Bloodhound

Bloodhound

New member
I have a Savage 110 .270...The problems just started about 1 month ago, never had a problem prior to this...the gun at the range shoots 4 or 5 rounds without flaw, and then the trouble starts...the round won't fire, this goes on for a round or two, and then it fires, and I can't get the bolt open, and have to tap the bolt open, then it won't fire 2 or 3 rounds...light dents on the primer.

I have changed loads, scrubbed the chamber, cleaned the bolt as best I could and even resorted to factory ammo this afternoon...same thing happened...couldn't see any signs of pressure out of spec...this one has me stumped. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
 
I have seen a problem with Savage 110's with the front action bolt mashing down the plastic bushing in the stock and making contact with the bolt, causing many different problems. Since the bolt is a 2 piece design, it may be binding the firing pin. I know it will bind the bolt for sure. Try backing off on the tightness of the front bolt without making it so loose that you can move the action. Test fire a round or two. If this is the problem that I think it may be, the best way to fix the problem permanently would to have a brass bushing put in the place of the plastic. Short term fix is to file the end of the bolt down a little shorter, but keep in mind that you may have to replace the bolt when you fix the gun permanently....JOHN
 
Following on to what the last post said. Savages should only touch the stock in the area around the two action bolts and along the sides of the action bewtween the two bolts (ie along the reciever opening where you insert a cartridge). If the tang area of the action touches the stock it creates a third point of contact. In that case when the rear action screw is snugged down it bends the action slightly causing a bind in the bolt. Think of it as trying to stick a cleaning rod through a bent barrel. You should be able to slide a business card between the tang and the stock hitting only the safety. I have had bolts get sticky from this problem. The site below explains the action/stock fit well. Then I added a recent anecdote about it as well.


http://www.savageshooters.net/Articles/Bedding101.html

Two nights ago my next door neighbor was getting frustrated with a model 12 in 308 that would not shoot under 2". We found a splatter (1/16" wide by 1/2" long) of bedding compound in that area causing the tang to touch. A little sanding and last night it was shooting .5" groups.
 
..."the round won't fire, this goes on for a round or two, and then it fires, and I can't get the bolt open, and have to tap the bolt open..."

When you say that you can't get the bolt open... Do you mean that the bolt handle won't lift? Or do you mean that the handle lifts, but the bolt just won't pull back?

Dan
 
I meant to mention... If the bolt handle just doesn't want to lift, I'm thinking this is an issue with the adjustment of the safety...

There is an over-travel screw on the trigger, and a safety engagement screw. The safety engagement screw is probably a couple thousandths out of adjustment. When the rifle heats up just a bit, this is when you see the problem. Light primer strikes, a bolt that won't lift... I think it's the safety adjustment.

Check this page: http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/savage110trigger.html

Odds are, someone has improperly adjusted the trigger.

Dan
 
Wow...I am reading this at work, and don't have the rifle with me...so I have to wait the entire day to start the fix ideas you have given...

The bolt handle lifts with no problem, but then the bolt won't come back...

If I am reading the above solutions/explinations...is this an intermitant problem that is kicked into play by the gun heating up with repeated fireing?

I have never had the gun out of the stock, but I will tonight, and see what is going on...

Thanks for the ideas...I'll post what I find when I get the action out of the stock.

thanks again for all the help
 
Hex bolt/slotted bolt on the back of the bolt handle is coming loose....tighten it up....problem goes away. Been there done it.
 
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Ok...so last night I did the paper test, it wouldn't clear/slide to the action, so I removed the action and punched out the plastic bushing, and built one out of some brass stock I had and epoxied it into the hole, I then removed the bolt cleaned it (Again), and tightened the sloted tailpiece (3/4 of a turn! how did it get that loose?), checked to see that the action wasn't contacting the stock anyplace it shouldn't (It wasn't), and put it back togather, recheced to see if I could pass paper under the barrel all the way to the action (Yes).
So its off to the range tomorrow to see if it will keep shooting, and not bind up...keep your fingers crossed.

Again Thank you for all the help
 
OK...sorry to keep on about this, but well its bugging me...I got the stock and the bolt worked out and took the gun to the range...no more failures to fire, but still wouldn't extract about every 3rd round...had to tap the bolt to get the case out...harder than I could do with my hand...and I was seeing some signs of pressure, flow on the primer strike...I am going to back off my load and go back to the CCI Primers...(Was trying to use up some Remington)...but the primer was the only change...soanythoughts...the bolt lifts fine, just won't come to the rear...Brass looks fine, but well I'm open to your thoughts.
 
If after you back off the loads and still have issues with extraction you can buy a new extractor/spring/detent ball from Midway for a few bucks. They take two minutes to put in..........
 
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