Primos Sit N Spin & Mojo Critter 2 Decoy review
- Thread starter Recon Ops
- Start date
Have used Jack in the Box, Mojo Critter (1) and currently using J Jack Daddy. By far the best of the three, but not in same price range.
Having had problems w/the spike in hard ground (no frozen ground here) on the critter, I'm a bit apprehensive w/same system on the Jack Daddy. May have to alter the JD as I did the CRITTER just to be on safe side.
Regards,
hm
Having had problems w/the spike in hard ground (no frozen ground here) on the critter, I'm a bit apprehensive w/same system on the Jack Daddy. May have to alter the JD as I did the CRITTER just to be on safe side.
Regards,
hm
utahcoyotehunter
New member
Used the original mojo critter with the metal stake and you do have to be careful when the ground is frozen to avoid breaking it. The original also had the thumb screw that can get lost while the newer one had the magnetic attachment which is the best so far. The newest mojo critter with the tripod legs (Mojo Outdoors® Critter
2), no sound, and the removable battery compartment I used for a weekend and am going to take it back. The legs did not break but would not stay in the rubber housing section after a half day of calling. The battery compartment pulls in and out so there are no wires but the connection was spotty even when tightened down as tight as the housing compartment allowed. I would press the on button and 50% of the time I had no power. I would have to press on the battery housing cover to make contact to get it to turn on. I do like the decoy size compared to others and the motion but the other issues are a no buy for me. Will have to try the fox pro's decoy that attaches to the shockwave. I like the idea of having them separate as I typically place the caller up on top of sagebrush to get the sound out there and the decoy right in from of it but may have to try the fox pro and see how it goes. Still have the original mojo critter as a back up-haven't broken the housing yet
2), no sound, and the removable battery compartment I used for a weekend and am going to take it back. The legs did not break but would not stay in the rubber housing section after a half day of calling. The battery compartment pulls in and out so there are no wires but the connection was spotty even when tightened down as tight as the housing compartment allowed. I would press the on button and 50% of the time I had no power. I would have to press on the battery housing cover to make contact to get it to turn on. I do like the decoy size compared to others and the motion but the other issues are a no buy for me. Will have to try the fox pro's decoy that attaches to the shockwave. I like the idea of having them separate as I typically place the caller up on top of sagebrush to get the sound out there and the decoy right in from of it but may have to try the fox pro and see how it goes. Still have the original mojo critter as a back up-haven't broken the housing yet
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: hm1996Have used Jack in the Box, Mojo Critter (1) and currently using J Jack Daddy. By far the best of the three, but not in same price range.
Having had problems w/the spike in hard ground (no frozen ground here) on the critter, I'm a bit apprehensive w/same system on the Jack Daddy. May have to alter the JD as I did the CRITTER just to be on safe side.
Regards,
hm
Was concerned about breaking it also. (Ground is frozen solid here now) I took a 6 Inch square of 1/4 inch aluminum. Drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole in the center. (same thread as the base of the critter) Cut some threaded rod to the desired length and mount the critter on that. Makes a good stable platform. And you can adjust the height with different length rod. A little more to carry but worth it to me.
Having had problems w/the spike in hard ground (no frozen ground here) on the critter, I'm a bit apprehensive w/same system on the Jack Daddy. May have to alter the JD as I did the CRITTER just to be on safe side.
Regards,
hm
Was concerned about breaking it also. (Ground is frozen solid here now) I took a 6 Inch square of 1/4 inch aluminum. Drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole in the center. (same thread as the base of the critter) Cut some threaded rod to the desired length and mount the critter on that. Makes a good stable platform. And you can adjust the height with different length rod. A little more to carry but worth it to me.
Jeff Gu
New member
I recently bought the Primos Stray Cat decoy. It has a much more realistic motion than either the Sit N' Spin or the Mojo Critter. It has the bungee-corded tripod legs, but they clip into a plastic retainer instead of the failure-prone rubber arrangement. It comes with extenders, also bungee-corded, for the legs. The cat-butt's tail (the decoy) fits into the motor head like a hex bit, as others have mentioned, this is a better arrangement. Motor/drive noise is minimal, and is growly enough that it doesn't seem to bother anything that comes in close to it. The great forward/reverse motion of the motor shaft means the drive gears make a noise that's not nearly as mechanical sounding. I've had one curious raccoon sit in front of it and stare at it as though he was trying to figure out which end to bite. I wasn't after coons, so I spooked him off before he decided to try a taste test.
The hex shaft on the tail is, unfortunetly, not a standard 1/4" hex so making alternative decoy "tails" meant filing down appropriate sized aluminum rod to fit the hex retainer on the motor. Not a big deal.
The ICOtec e-callers use a pulsed contact closure to control decoys, and the Stray Cat didn't work on the GC350 that I tested it on. Again, for me, this wasn't a big deal. I've simply built an interface that allows me to use any decoy system on any caller system as well as some homebrew remote control systems. The remote for the Stray Cat has about a 40 or 50 yard range, which is sufficient for a lot of setups, but I need more range and flexibility than any of these things offer, so I spend a ridiculous amount of time and engineering effort on better systems. In all honesty, I think these companies should be doing this instead of pumping out gimp products that Chinese factories will make for peanuts.
I do think the Stray Cat has better potential as an effective decoy... the motion it produces is a lot more conducive to making your own custom shafts and covers for it that actually mimic real animals than the simple spinning motion of the others.
The hex shaft on the tail is, unfortunetly, not a standard 1/4" hex so making alternative decoy "tails" meant filing down appropriate sized aluminum rod to fit the hex retainer on the motor. Not a big deal.
The ICOtec e-callers use a pulsed contact closure to control decoys, and the Stray Cat didn't work on the GC350 that I tested it on. Again, for me, this wasn't a big deal. I've simply built an interface that allows me to use any decoy system on any caller system as well as some homebrew remote control systems. The remote for the Stray Cat has about a 40 or 50 yard range, which is sufficient for a lot of setups, but I need more range and flexibility than any of these things offer, so I spend a ridiculous amount of time and engineering effort on better systems. In all honesty, I think these companies should be doing this instead of pumping out gimp products that Chinese factories will make for peanuts.
I do think the Stray Cat has better potential as an effective decoy... the motion it produces is a lot more conducive to making your own custom shafts and covers for it that actually mimic real animals than the simple spinning motion of the others.
OregonMike
Member
I made a metal stand that the sit and spin screws onto.... kinda like an h and you can sink it with your foot. So far I have had no reliability issues, and it looks good to me. Been using 2 years....
I can see how if it was hard ground and you were pushing down you could bust it where the stake attaches.
My only complaint was the SHINY A$$ GREEN PLASTIC. Why would they do that. My first order of business was a rattle can coat of ultra flat brown and Ultra flat tan camo job.
Would give it a good mark for reliability... Good value, so far sturdy.... but color was BAD... also, you could charge a buck less and leave the lil teddy bear eyes off it.... yotes aint gonna see em anyway...
I can see how if it was hard ground and you were pushing down you could bust it where the stake attaches.
My only complaint was the SHINY A$$ GREEN PLASTIC. Why would they do that. My first order of business was a rattle can coat of ultra flat brown and Ultra flat tan camo job.
Would give it a good mark for reliability... Good value, so far sturdy.... but color was BAD... also, you could charge a buck less and leave the lil teddy bear eyes off it.... yotes aint gonna see em anyway...
borrowed time
New member
thanks for review! i LOVE Primos hand calls but have chosen to go with Fox Pro E-caller & decoy as per the reviews and recommendations i read here. in fact i give some credit to my F.P. Wildfire 2 for my first coyotes ever about a month & 1/2 ago. it kept them distracted & eyes off me enough to get 'em both! i also picked up a now discontinued Fox Jack 2 decoy that fits my W.F.2.
You guys are a major source of good info on gear & techniques, I know youve saved me hassle, headache and money by following your advice! thanks everybody!
You guys are a major source of good info on gear & techniques, I know youve saved me hassle, headache and money by following your advice! thanks everybody!
Last edited:
AdamT
Well-known member
I had been using either the Mojo Super Critter or the Mojo Woodpecker. No complaints really on either. I liked the sound on the Super Critter but when it was plugged in to the caller for remote start and stop, you lost the sound ability. I just got in a Foxpro Jack Daddy and really like it. Ive only used it on one set so far but it works well and you can remote start/stop the motion and the sound independent of each other. I like this option especially for when using hand calls. SportsmansGuide did have them on sale for right at $70 but are sold out now. I also used a FoxJack when I had a Crossfire but I like having the decoy separate from the caller for when the caller is on top of a post or hung in a tree.