Problems loading up .357 magnum

YoteAddiction

New member
Alright, I'm trying to load up .357 magnums, using Winchester brass, Rainier lead-safe 158 grain bullets, and lee dies. The first round I loaded I thought my seating die was also crimping, so I adjusted the die, and loaded another one, and adjusted and loaded another one, and adjusted and loaded another. Now I have three rounds that all appear crimped on a bullet with no crimp groove, despite following the instructions with the dies to avoid crimping. As I continued playing with the die adjustments (loaded three more) I noticed that I can actually see where the base of the bullet is through the case. The edge of the case mouth was very slightly bulged, and clearly indented into the bullet(no crimp groove)and there was a .002" difference between the outside diameter of the case where the seated bullet was, and the case below the bottom edge of the bullet. I took some measurements and first noticed the cases outside diameter (after full length sizing) was .374" and both my manuals and the info with the dies lists it as .379". Further inspection revealed the inside diameter of the case to be .353" and the bullets all measured in at .3565 (measured 10 of them). I don't think this seems alright (though I'm new to loading, so maybe it is) but it appears that the inside case dimensions are not big enough, and the the bullet is forcing the case wider. My three guesses are I'm doing something wrong, my full length sizer isn't working properly, or the brass is not the right size. Any ideas as to what the problem is?
 
Originally Posted By: YoteAddictionAlright, I'm trying to load up .357 magnums, using Winchester brass, Rainier lead-safe 158 grain bullets, and lee dies. The first round I loaded I thought my seating die was also crimping, so I adjusted the die, and loaded another one, and adjusted and loaded another one, and adjusted and loaded another. Now I have three rounds that all appear crimped on a bullet with no crimp groove, despite following the instructions with the dies to avoid crimping. As I continued playing with the die adjustments (loaded three more) I noticed that I can actually see where the base of the bullet is through the case. The edge of the case mouth was very slightly bulged, and clearly indented into the bullet(no crimp groove)and there was a .002" difference between the outside diameter of the case where the seated bullet was, and the case below the bottom edge of the bullet. I took some measurements and first noticed the cases outside diameter (after full length sizing) was .374" and both my manuals and the info with the dies lists it as .379". Further inspection revealed the inside diameter of the case to be .353" and the bullets all measured in at .3565 (measured 10 of them). I don't think this seems alright (though I'm new to loading, so maybe it is) but it appears that the inside case dimensions are not big enough, and the the bullet is forcing the case wider. My three guesses are I'm doing something wrong, my full length sizer isn't working properly, or the brass is not the right size. Any ideas as to what the problem is?

Whew. This is gonna be a bit long....

1 - most loaders of revolver ammo seat in one die and then use a separate die to crimp. It is very difficult to get one die to do both (properly)... so you set the seater to put the bullet where you want it, then you crimp the amount you want - easy - and crimp only dies are cheap.

2 - "... and there was a .002" difference between the outside diameter of the case where the seated bullet was, and the case below the bottom edge of the bullet. "

This is normal - the case has to be smaller to hold the bullet tight. There is a die that has two sizing sections - the body get sized to "cosmetic normal", and the section that holds the bullet gets sized smaller to hold the bullet - can you spell "expensive"?? Just live with that 0.002" difference.

3 - "... was .374" and both my manuals and the info with the dies lists it as .379". "

This is within normal limits.

4 - "... Further inspection revealed the inside diameter of the case to be .353" and the bullets all measured in at .3565 (measured 10 of them). I don't think this seems alright (though I'm new to loading, so maybe it is) but it appears that the inside case dimensions are not big enough, and the the bullet is forcing the case wider."

This is also normal. The case mouth has to be smaller than the bullet, or it cannot hold the bullet in place.

5 - "My three guesses are I'm doing something wrong."

No, you are doing fine
smile.gif


6 - "... my full length sizer isn't working properly."

No, it is working fine
smile.gif


7 - "... or the brass is not the right size."

The brass is the right size
smile.gif


8 - Any ideas as to what the problem is?"

Yes, you are suffering an affliction common to new re-loaders. It is called "OCD". (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder) - it is where everything must be perfect, and if it is not, we must worry about it.

OCD is very common with benchrest shooters
smile.gif
smile.gif


Handgun reloads (and rifle reloads to a lesser degree) look like reloads, they DON'T look like new, factory rounds - it is very difficult to get handgun reloads to look like factory loads. "Some" commercial reloaders can do it, but spend a lot of money on dies and technique to accomplish the task.

Get a separate crimping die, and enjoy the best indoor hobby you can have.

Meow
wink.gif


 
All that CatShooter said...I've loaded handgun ammo for years and use a progressive press to do so...Fortunately, I have my seating dies adjusted where it just barely crimps the case neck in the same operation, at the end of the seating cycle,,,If I change bullet configurations for that die/caliber, I have to start all over again..

It takes a lot of experimentation to get it right, especially on rounds that are intended for use in a semi-auto pistol, where the round headspaces on the case neck... Revolvers are not quite so 'picky'..

Find yourself a "Check Die" that you can run the finished cartridge into to verify that it is sized properly and you won't need to be worrying about the actual size of the cartridge components..I have one for almost every cartridge I load..If it slides in and out easily, you have no problem,, If it doesn't, then you will know that you need to do some more adjustment..
 
I use to reload many different handgun cartridges.....now 357 is the only one.

I am assuming you have the 3 die set. A sizer, an expander, and a seater. You can get a roll crimper die if you want, I have one but rarely use it.

My loaded cartridges look like you describe and they shoot great.
 
Well, alright guys, thanks for the input and reasurances. And yeah, I'm feeling a little OCD.... just a little allergic to blowing parts of my body off
w00t.gif
so I want to make sure I'm doing everything right, lol. As for my crimping, I actually do have the the separate crimp die, which I would like to use since the bullets I'm using don't actually have a crimp groove, I'm apparently just not smart enough to get the seating die not to crimp
 
Yote, back the body of your seating die out of the press about one turn or so, then adjust the seater plug so that your bullets are seated to the desired depth.

I was also not too pleased with the effects of seating and crimping any handgun round in the same step. I rounded up extra seating dies to separate the seat and crimp operations, even for taper-crimped cartridges. I load cast bullets almost exclusively, but I think I'd do this even if I was loading jacketed bullets.
 
Good advice above... Back the seating die a full turn or turn and a half away from the shell holder when the ram is raised up to the highest position. You shouldn't be anywhere near the crimp position of the die now. All you need to do here is remove the bell at the case mouth that you put in earlier so you have a straight case with a seated and uncrimped bullet. Adjust your seating stem to seat the bullet to the desired depth. Crimp in a separate operation with either a good roll crimp or a LEE Factory Crimp Die.
 
I don't know how hot your loading your .357s but if they are on the high end of the curve, I would stick to bullets that have a crimping groove or cannelure and use a heavy roll crimp. It is also good to have all your cases trimmed to the same length so your crimps all come out even. A separate crimping die makes things way easier and is well worth the extra bucks.
 
Like GC stated, +1 to the Lee factory crimp die. IIRC, I use them on every straight walled case that I load.

Make sure your brass is all the same length......
 


Write your reply...
Back
Top