Proper Rifle cleaning

I

IAYoteHunter

New member
Hello, I have recently bought a new Remington 700 22-250 for coyote hunting. I want to keep this rifle properly cleaned. I bought a 1 piece aluminum rod, bore guide, and bore brushes and jags. I have read that many rifles are damaged by improper cleaning. Can someone tell me what is the improper cleaning methods that damage the crown of the barrel or the throat of the barrel. Also what is the correct way to clean a rifle without damaging the rifling. Thanks!
 
Well... Some would say to return the aluminum rod. Aluminum oxide is what sandpaper has as an abrasive. Many on here use Dewey coated steel rods, the 44" will just about cover everything. There are several that like the carbon rods as well. As long as you use good sense your not going to hurt a barrel. Patches need to push through snugly, but not so tight that the rod flexes against the sides. Always start with a wet patch and wet brush. Most people get in trouble trying to push a dry patch, and end up stuck. After the brush exits, be careful-gentle at the muzzle as you start it back in. Some would even unscrew it and remove the rod minus the brush. Keep a paper towel handy, and wipe the rod end to end often. I also wash the brush with brake cleaner (Naptha) often. I like ProShot cotton patches, and buy them by the thousands, in several sizes.
 
Thanks for the reply. When your using the bore brush do you make sure that the brush exits the muzzle before reversing directions? Will brushing back and forth in the bore many times cause damage to the rifling after prolonged cleaning?
 
I would not reverse a brush of any kind across the muzzle. I don't use many brushes, but when I do, I remove them after they exit the muzzle.

Best thing for cleaning is to run a couple of patches of Kroil, wait 30 minutes, then run your brush and patch out the residue.

There are many cleaning products out there. I like Shooters Choice, Wipeout and Butchs, depending on the application.

I think bore snakes are for emergency situations only.

Don't forget, removing carbon buildup is the first step to cleaning. The Kroil will penetrate deep and "loosen up" any kind of fouling you may have. The just clean it out of there. The solvents will help chew up any remaining residue.

Don't forget to fire a fouling shot or two after cleaning.
 
Like mentioned before just keep your rod cleaned off after 2-3 passes as well as the bushes,,, also as long as you do, the rod you have will be fine
 
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Originally Posted By: ninehorsesWell... Some would say to return the aluminum rod. Aluminum oxide is what sandpaper has as an abrasive. Many on here use Dewey coated steel rods, the 44" will just about cover everything. There are several that like the carbon rods as well. As long as you use good sense your not going to hurt a barrel. Patches need to push through snugly, but not so tight that the rod flexes against the sides. Always start with a wet patch and wet brush. Most people get in trouble trying to push a dry patch, and end up stuck. After the brush exits, be careful-gentle at the muzzle as you start it back in. Some would even unscrew it and remove the rod minus the brush. Keep a paper towel handy, and wipe the rod end to end often. I also wash the brush with brake cleaner (Naptha) often. I like ProShot cotton patches, and buy them by the thousands, in several sizes.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
My biggest objection to aluminum or brass rods is based on the fact that any abrasive is trapped by the softer of two metals and serve as an abrasive on the harder metal (ie. valve grinding compound placed on engine valves will cut the valve as opposed to the softer cast iron seat). The coated rods are not firm enough to do as much damage IMO but can trap abrasives, thus the importance of wiping off between strokes whatever rod you choose. A non-jointed rod is, of course, best choice and a bore guide is of utmost importance. I prefer to clean from breech.

Observing ninehorses suggestions, have managed to squeeze 7500 rounds each from several 30-06 target rifle barrels before they began to throw unaccountable fliers. Not bad considering that these were used in NRA XTC competition where they got pretty hot during the rapid fire strings.

Regards,
hm

Regards,
hm
 
Cleaning a bore is like a lot of things...it's first and foremost a topic which allows others to show off their "knowledge and expertise."
I am not saying there isn't some good info on this thread...but some guys can really get super stupid about hurting a bore cleaning it. Those are usually the same guys that brag about taking 8 hours to cut a chamber in a barrel...yet their rifles don't shoot any better than anyone else.
Best advice regarding cleaning a rifle barrel I could offer is...if you really like to shoot and you are serious about it start saving your pennies now for a borescope. There is no way to know for certain if you actually have the barrel spotless clean without one, period, end of story. Many guys think that if the copper streaks are gone at the muzzle when they finish cleaning, the barrel is clean...the scope sure hit the bermp button on that one. The first thing I learned when I got mine was that I didn't have a clean barrel...the second thing I learned was that neither did anyone else whose barrel I looked down!!!
The third thing I learned was that JB Bore Cleaner is your friend when it comes to copper fouling. A borescope also allows you to confirm whether or not you have that dread hard carbon ring right at the throat that can kill accuracy and whether or not you were successful at removing it. Good luck and good shooting!!!
Bottom line...be real cautious about someone giving a lot of "golden how to" about cleaning a rifle bore that don't own a borescope...that's about like an electrician telling how much voltage you have, but he don't own a volt meter!!!!
 
One piece coated rod, bore guide, proper jags and patches. Then the rest is personal preference. I clean fairly often so i dont have to use really aggressive procedures.

Two wet patches of Hoppes #9 on jag (set for 30 minutes)
One wet patch of Hoppes #9 to push out the majority.
Dry patch out (generally 3-4)
Two wet patches of copper klenz or liquid wipeout for copper (set for 30 minutes)
Dry patch out (generally 3-4)
One wet patch of Hoppes #9
Patch out dry.

Go shoot. Doesnt take long. No scrubbing and works for me.
 
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