i have a new remington Model 700™ VLS 22 250 i took and had it bedded and free floated.... upon getting it back from the gun smith i checked it with a dollar bill . It went under the barrel freely for a few inches then stopped. I the took off the stock and saw that the stock had an bridge type buldge that was made into the stock ( possible from the factory for the heavy barrel support ) the action was glassed real good... But my question is should that buldge have been taken out to be free floated ? does it need to be taken out ? I am not a expert on this by far..... Any help......... thanks alot
question about free floating remington Model 700™ VLS 22 250
- Thread starter sirking
- Start date
trevor73402
New member
I agree...shoot it first, BUT if you paid the smith to "free float" your barrell and its not free floated then I would be wanting to know why he didnt do what he said he was going to do.
As for the bulge in your stock forend, just get a dremel tool and sand/remove it out of the forend.
As for the bulge in your stock forend, just get a dremel tool and sand/remove it out of the forend.
Remington Engineer for the VTR was on a forum and told people they put a bunch of time in to figuring out wha worked best on the 700. They said free floating wasn't i.
A bunch of people responded they had FF their 700 VTR. The engineer ask them the results and not a single one improved, most got worse.
Those pressure points are designed in he stock for a reason. I'd leave them be and thank your smith for not screwing up your gun.
A bunch of people responded they had FF their 700 VTR. The engineer ask them the results and not a single one improved, most got worse.
Those pressure points are designed in he stock for a reason. I'd leave them be and thank your smith for not screwing up your gun.
Last edited:
Don Fischer
New member
Probably the gunsmith floated everything but the up pressure bridge. To me that is not free floated. But I would also shoot it first and see what it does. I would have shot it befor having anything done to it. If it come's down to free floating, a dollar bill doesn't cit it for me, I want it floating! I take several pieces of paper and slide it full length.
I have a Rem designed 700 ADL that was one of the worst shooting rifles I ever owned. It did have the up lift in the barrel and removing the stock, it felt like it was moulded around a frozen stock, everything was tight, had to knock it out. It's all open now and shoot's better than I do.
I have a Rem designed 700 ADL that was one of the worst shooting rifles I ever owned. It did have the up lift in the barrel and removing the stock, it felt like it was moulded around a frozen stock, everything was tight, had to knock it out. It's all open now and shoot's better than I do.
I'd have to echo Don's remarks as far as "free floating." Now I'm not wild about using several pieces of paper to run between the barrel and stock, but you should be able to freely move that paper all the way up the stock without obstruction. Otherwise what that gunsmith did was not "conventional" free floating. Go shoot that beautiful puppy and see how she does before re-visiting that gunsmith. However if your pattern hasn't improved (I'd have to say significantly), I'd take it back and tell him to "free float it all the way up the barrel. Good luck!
BIGGUNGOBOOM
New member
A traditional free float is floated up to the edge of the recoil lug, On my VTR I took the notch out, I gained accuracy. but I have never heard of the Remington guy's comment. so I cant say other wise. but for me it helped.
I floated mine as soon as I got it (vls 22-250) using a dowel and sand paper. I then bedded the action,,, shoots very good for a stock gun.
I know remington puts the notch or lip (whater they call it) on the stocks to make contact with the barrel but I thought ghey always put that spot on the end of the forend.
I know remington puts the notch or lip (whater they call it) on the stocks to make contact with the barrel but I thought ghey always put that spot on the end of the forend.
SodakJim
New member
I am about to glass bed and free float my new Rem VLS. I have had the best results floating the barrel from around 2 inches forward of the recoil lug. The VLS stock doesn't have much wood to metal contact area to support the action as it comes from the factory. Loosen the action screws and note how much front to rear and rotational movement there is. The heavy barrel on the VLS is plenty stiff so 2 sheets of paper (about .008) is enough clearance.
Wrapping some 100 grit sandpaper around a socket just a bit smaller than your barrel channel will take out the pressure hump very quickly. Be sure to put a few coats of stock finish to re-seal the barrel channel or the forend can warp.
I have always seen an improvement after a good bedding and free float job. The pressure hump is a cheap way to get out of doing a real good bedding job and it works to varying degrees. If you asked for a free float job, you certainly did not get it.
Wrapping some 100 grit sandpaper around a socket just a bit smaller than your barrel channel will take out the pressure hump very quickly. Be sure to put a few coats of stock finish to re-seal the barrel channel or the forend can warp.
I have always seen an improvement after a good bedding and free float job. The pressure hump is a cheap way to get out of doing a real good bedding job and it works to varying degrees. If you asked for a free float job, you certainly did not get it.