Question on zeroing Iray Rico G LRF

L

Lazer32

Well-known member
Hello Gents,
I have been getting my equipment set up for night hunting the last several weeks and I ran into a curious issue. I own an Iray Rico G LRF 640x50 thermal mounted on a 223 AR. I have been trying to zero it at 100 and 200 yards; it has the ability to set different zeros, up to 300yards if I'm not mistaken. When you set the zero you change the coordinates of the X and Y axis. I set a coordinate for the 100 yard zero and shot several rounds to confirm. I then moved on to my 200 yard zero and entered the 100 yard coordinates as a starting point.
I wanted to keep the same X value and played around with the Y value but after shooting several rounds I realized I wasn't even on the large paper target I set up. So I changed back to my 100 yard zero setting and shot at my 200 yard target. As you would expect I was several inches low. At this point I stayed at my 100 yard zero and made changes so I was on at 200 yards. It was now shooting really well at 200 yards. This is where my issue arises. I changed the setting and went to my 200 yard zero but when I entered the X and Y axis values that I had found it was way off. I'm not anywhere near where I should be, even though those coordinates produce consistent results in the 100 yard setting.
I am a bit dumbfounded. I'm thinking I need to change a setting somewhere but I can't seem to find any info in the manual or online. Has anyone run into a similar issue and how was it resolved? Any help would be appreciated.
For now I am using the 200 yard zero I found in the 100 yard setting. I am dead on at 200 yards and I am a couple inches high at 100 yards.
 
SS is asking about zeroing the rangefinder, not the accuracy of it.

I spent quite a bit of time on mine getting my RF box in perfect alignment. Mine's at about 11 o'clock above the +.

You need to set the gun up off the bench with a good rest. Then adjust the box off a vertical object like a tree trunk to get it proper on the left & right. Then do the same to adjust the up & down aspect off a good horizontal object.

Zeroing the scope is different than zeroing the rangefinder, they have no bearing on one another.
 
alf said:
SS is asking about zeroing the rangefinder, not the accuracy of it.

I spent quite a bit of time on mine getting my RF box in perfect alignment. Mine's at about 11 o'clock above the +.

You need to set the gun up off the bench with a good rest. Then adjust the box off a vertical object like a tree trunk to get it proper on the left & right. Then do the same to adjust the up & down aspect off a good horizontal object.

Zeroing the scope is different than zeroing the rangefinder, they have no bearing on one another.
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Good advice. I'm gonna spend some time getting the range finder zeroed in perfectly.
 
Back to your original question.

I never played with mine adjusting between 100 & 200. All my guns are sighted in with a 200 zero, & I leave them alone.

It'd have to be a pretty wimpy load to be a couple inches high at 100 for a 200 zero.

If so, you might consider a 150 zero.
 
My question about zeroing the lrf , was an information gathering question. How familiar was L32 with the manual/windows operating system of the device. Also if L32 was noticing the relationship between X-Y axis change and the change in the location of the reticle to the "center" of the screen during zeroing. Seems easy to see when the reticle is static when zeroing the RF. I agree with alf, I also zero at 150 yards with a thermal.
I also wonder why someone hasn't developed a base/mount system for zeroing without having to mess with the x,y axis entirely. Base would move the scope, 1/4 -3/8 inch of vertical/horizontal adjustment range in the base should be enough to align the scope to the bore/bullet impact.
 
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spotstalkshoot said:
My question about zeroing the lrf , was an information gathering question. How familiar was L32 with the manual/windows operating system of the device. Also if L32 was noticing the relationship between X-Y axis change and the change in the location of the reticle to the "center" of the screen during zeroing. Seems easy to see when the reticle is static when zeroing the RF. I agree with alf, I also zero at 150 yards with a thermal.
I also wonder why someone hasn't developed a base/mount system for zeroing without having to mess with the x,y axis entirely. Base would move the scope, 1/4 -3/8 inch of vertical/horizontal adjustment range in the base should be enough to align the scope to the bore/bullet impact.
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I would say I'm somewhat familiar. I've thumbed through it and I initially used it to gain access to the menus, change the illumination, reticle, etc.
 
alf said:
Back to your original question.

I never played with mine adjusting between 100 & 200. All my guns are sighted in with a 200 zero, & I leave them alone.

It'd have to be a pretty wimpy load to be a couple inches high at 100 for a 200 zero.

If so, you might consider a 150 zero.
Click to expand...
I chrono'd the load I am using, N140 and 55 grain V-max's and its averaging 2860fps. On the lighter side but I wouldn't necessarily call it wimpy. I was being generous when I stated several inches. I was shooting steel at a range with other shooters and couldn't go down range to check as much as I wanted.
 
If you changed zero 'profiles' the x,y wounld not be the same. Zero for each profile. I missed 5 hogs once as I thought the zero would not change with a reticle change. AGM fixed the problem in a SW update. Coders are not hunters.
 
The manual to me suggests 3 choices of default zeroing distance 100,200,300 yards(if you change from metric to English ) with the capability to choose a (1) custom zeroing distance from 1-999 yards. So you would make a (1) choice or enter a custom distance, adjust the reticle to bullet impact. And than use hold over/under with reticle to compensate for bullet trajectory. As Alf suggested.
 
spotstalkshoot said:
The manual to me suggests 3 choices of default zeroing distance 100,200,300 yards(if you change from metric to English ) with the capability to choose a (1) custom zeroing distance from 1-999 yards. So you would make a (1) choice or enter a custom distance, adjust the reticle to bullet impact. And than use hold over/under with reticle to compensate for bullet trajectory. As Alf suggested.
Click to expand...
And/or you can do a custom reticle with your choice of zero distance and multiple drops via their app.

I set up my custom reticle, and the next time I turned it on, there was nothing there.

I didn't realize you have to pay for the custom reticle option, & I can't activate my shop option on the app to buy it.

I need to call them & found out WTH is going on.
 
You will find you need to zero at your 'average' distance and use hold over on a real target. And use the retical size to determine hold over. Use a 'yote' sized target at distance, learn to judge distance and hold from the retical. You can use the LRF to see if target is 'in-range'. Don't get much time to fiddle with the controls.
 
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