Recoil Lug Bedding

Originally Posted By: Winny FanOriginally Posted By: AnkenyQuote:The front, sides and bottom of a traditional recoil lug should not touch the bedding. These recoil lug areas should be relieved with electrical tape/masking tape during the bedding process so that the only point on the recoil lug that touches the completed bedding is the back of the recoil lug. And they are not alone with that opinion. Not alone? I should say not. That is the majority opinion. As for bedding compound, my favorite is Devcon 10110. The best release agent I have ever used is Kiwi Nuetral shoe polish.

EXACTLY. Has worked well for me on several rifles.

"And they are not alone with that opinion" is just my way of saying what you said.
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Beyond that, as previously stated, some of the advice offered here is bordering on a train wreck in terms of bedding a conventional rifle recoil lug.
 
Originally Posted By: SlickerThanSnotOriginally Posted By: ninehorsesThis is NOT the way to bed a lug. There is so much wrong with this, it's not worth correcting.
heck we all have spare time otherwise we probably would not be reading this. why don't you go ahead and tell us what is wrong and the correct way. i will listen and learn.

Originally Posted By: ninehorsesNever tighten a Remington action to 60 inch pounds, as it will bend it!
if it is bedded correctly it can not or should not bend no matter how much you tighten it. that is what i would think anyway.

Nothing is said about stock prep. First a good degreasing with brake cleaner, then a little roughing up, so the bedding compound has something to get a good hold of. Action screws should only touch the action and the floor plate, not the stock or bedding block. Not fill the holes with glass, and push bedding material into the lug area of the action.
Never assume that a aluminum bedding block is straight, or perfectly aligned. Cranking down on the screws will stress the action to whatever the block will stand. If it's not being flexed itself. You should strive for no stress anywhere. Don't tighten the screws at all, just use them to align the action in the stock. Barely snug. You want the action to set in the bedding, not the aluminum block. You may hear the term skim bedded, this is what you want, you will hardly see any aluminum. Float the whole barrel, no glass touching the barrel. The link above, on 6mmBR site is good info.
 
I do stress free bedding of the action. IMO, very important. After all the prep work and putting the bedding goo in the stock, I insert the barreled action with a set of long studs screwed into the action screw holes to help line up the action in the stock and then squish it down into the stock and use about three wraps of electrical tape to hold it in place until it cures. I also have electrical tape on the barrel in the forearm area to help center it in the stock. I do bed the lug tight though, barrel free floated. I install action screws after everything is cleaned up and then torque down.
 
Wrapping the action screws with tape until they snugly fit the holes, will keep the bedding out, and help center the screw in the hole. Kiwi neutral for release agent, buffed thin with a paper towel. The painted on release agents can be too thick.
 
Thanks for all the info guys! Sorry I am just now posting, it has been a long weekend. The rifle is a Marlin X7VH 22-250 in a Boyd's varmint thumbhole. It is not a free floated tang and does have a tang screw. I was at Scheels Friday and they have Acraglass kits for $35 but I didn't pick one up cause I'm waiting to hear some more info and do some more reading. Is it pretty good stuff or should I order some Devcon or just go with JB weld? So when you drop the barreled action into the stock, do you set it in lightly, start the screw, then press it in firmly so you don't fill the action screw with bedding compound? Or should I make some dumby threaded rod studs to slide in the holes from the top so they are already in and covered with release agent? Thanks!

Shelton
 
Originally Posted By: CoyotejunkiI do stress free bedding of the action. IMO, very important. After all the prep work and putting the bedding goo in the stock, I insert the barreled action with a set of long studs screwed into the action screw holes to help line up the action in the stock and then squish it down into the stock and use about three wraps of electrical tape to hold it in place until it cures. I also have electrical tape on the barrel in the forearm area to help center it in the stock. I do bed the lug tight though, barrel free floated. I install action screws after everything is cleaned up and then torque down.

+1

Over the years, I have heard more BS on this subject it is just sickening. Couple of basics that I have learned

degrease your actions and screws twice with brake cleaner, three times if you are pissed off at the wife.

I use a spray on Brownells accra release, two coats on action and screws

When I am finished, I wash off the Accra Release with the brake cleaner...easy

Johnson's paste wax or clear shoe polish works well, cheap

Often, you should do one major pour, then follow with a skim coat...secret of master builders

I have played with taping the sides and front, vs bedding the whole recoil lug, can't tell the difference in super accurate rifles, BUT, YOU HAVE TO FREE FLOAT THE BOTTOM OF THE RECOIL LUG

Stocks with Al bedding blocks almost always benefit from a skim coat including the recoil lug. I do not bed in front of the recoil lug on customs, Rem 700, 788's, and 40x's,Unless I am installing a 30-32" Max Heavy Varmint contour or unturned blank, then bed in front of the recoil lug, Rugers I will bed 1 1/2" in front of the recoil lug.

Std wood stocks get pillars, always

Laminate stocks don't need pillars, as a general rule...striving for perfection for perfections sake is different than seeing results on paper

Free float the magazine box-I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!

Stress free bedding Is complicated, takes time, and may or may not help in actual field shooting applications, but it helps in table top shooting...lots of mental masturbation on this subject. I really don't feel like being in a weenie roast on this subject.

One major thing that helps guys that like to bed their own rifles, a carbide cutter that is 1/8" in dia. that fits in a dremel that only cuts on the bottom, not the sides.




 
Listen to this man. He knows his chit.

If you need to bed forward of the lug. You likely have a barrel problem. I learned this the hard way.

I use that same cutter on all my bedding jobs. It works great to relief before bedding and then clean up after bedding.
 


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