Reloading dies for a 243 semi-automatic

M

Mit

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I have a 243 browning Bar semi-automatic rifle and was wondering if I have the right dies for it. I am pretty sure that you can get two different sets of dies, one for automatics and ones for bolts. The ones that I have are RCBS group "A", Part # 11401, Uses shell holder #3, "FL Die set .243 Winchester. The top of the first die reads RCBS 243Win Seat 84 and the other says RCBS 243 Win FL 84.
 
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Those should work for you Mit. The only other I know of are neck sizer dies and I don't think you want those in a semi auto. I don't believe I have ever seen a small base die in .243 but then again I have never had a reason to look for one. Have you used the dies you have and developed a problem? I just checked RCBS website and yes they have a small base die in .243 and an Xdie also, but you should try the regular dies that you have I don't think there will be a problem. If there is then you can spend some more money.
 
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Properly set up to full length resize your dies will work fine. I have two BAR's, a BLR, an AR-15 with two complete uppers, a Remington Pump 7600, a slew of Winchester and Marlin lever actions, Ruger No. 1 single shot, and a bunch of bolt action rifles and have yet to need a small base die for any of them.
 
Thanks youngdon and GC ! I reloaded a few and unloaded five shots no problem. When I went hunting, I shot three shots and when I tried to unload the fourth one manually, it felt like it was partially stuck and required a little bit of elbow grease to pull back. The bottom of my die was bottomed out on the top of the case holder on every shell resized. The shell that came out hard did not appear to have any markings on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Mit Thanks youngdon and GC ! I reloaded a few and unloaded five shots no problem. When I went hunting, I shot three shots and when I tried to unload the fourth one manually, it felt like it was partially stuck and required a little bit of elbow grease to pull back. The bottom of my die was bottomed out on the top of the case holder on every shell resized. The shell that came out hard did not appear to have any markings on it.

Some times just bottoming out isn't good enough, you may need to actually cam over enough to assure the brass is getting sized comletly all the way down to the base.
Camming over would be bottoming out plus app 1/4 turn or less.
 
You may need to purchase a small base die for your automatic.. Some auto rifles will tolerate an FL die, but then there are those that require the small base.. I bought a small base die for my 223 from Midway.
 
Zilla is right on the money about using small base dies. I own 5 X 5.56 semi autos and never a problem with any of them using small base dies, only way to go.
 
Originally Posted By: timberpatchZilla is right on the money about using small base dies. I own 5 X 5.56 semi autos and never a problem with any of them using small base dies, only way to go.

Only if you absolutely need to because of some tolerance/dimension problems. Otherwise it is just over working the brass needlessly. I've loaded many tens of thousands of rounds for mine and several others with repeating rifles of various types and can't recall ever needing a small base die.
 
I have plenty of spent mil brass, small base dies works best for me, I try to recover what I can and keep it in the same lots.

Your right about working the brass with a small base die, and maybe even some have not taken the press to the bottom of the stroke or are out of adjustment. I have to keep an eye on over lengths on these cases.

I have seen some rifle chambers that have to use a small base die on, even bolt guns can be this way, if they are tight chambers. Once fire formed cases only need neck sizing on bolt guns. I do not expect accuracy as near as good on my semi autos when compared to my bolt guns.

I tend to think a lot can go back to the tooling when the any rifle rifle was built, How fresh was the tooling? chamber reamers in particular, they do wear down, and they are sharpened to minimum standards before being replaced.

The bottom line is what die works best for any given rifle. If I fire this brass a few times and loose some that is fine by me.
 
I'm with GC on this one. Flr's is all I've ever used and reload for both a r-25 and 700 in 243. Have not had any problems. You should be ready to go. Have fun.
 
Get A Hornady / Stoney Point Headspace gauge. Period!! It's a safety thing and a accuracy thing. Know EXACTLY how far you are setting your shoulder case back. You can do it with a FL die. Also get a bullet comparator. Then you can measure all critical measurements need. Get some Imperial sizing die wax too. [Brownells or Sinclair]
I would love to have a BAR camo they just came out with. Looks Great and Lighter too. I have a BAR Safari in 270 Win and a BLR inn 243 Win. 37 years reloading for em. Keep us posted of your progress. Thanks.
 
I would venture to say that the die is not set deep enough to the shell holder. Try turning the die in 1/8 to 1/4 turn more. I have been reloading for since I was 13yrs old and now I am 44. I can only remember having issues with one gun not being able to get the reloads to work in it. And to fix it I had to set the die so that I was camming over and it took care of it.
 


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