If you TRULY want ULTIMATE HANDLOADS "true accuracy" (very different from "reloads") you will go full bench rest type components.
The top names, PERIOD are Foster, Redding, Sinclaire, and Wilson.
If you TRULY want HANDLOADS, you don't mind it taking
hours(s) to make 10 PERFECT rounds. Why hours give or take?
With the utmost criticism and quality control you will:
1. You will weigh and measure every bullet
2.weigh every case and only keep those that weigh within a half grain of the lot's average, and consider the rest unworthy to be sling shot ammo.
3. You will uniform every primer cup, as consistently as you can, with the best uniformer you can afford, prior to every reloading. You will debur every flash hole in the same manner, but only the first time you prep the case.
4. You will measure the actual chamber length of YOUR chamber, and trim your brass to .005" less than that and ignore what the load manual says the trim to length is.
5. You will neck turn the neck of every case, to a perfect dimension in relation to the neck diameter in YOUR chamber.
6. You will hand weigh each and every powder charge and make them precise as you humanly can.
7. You will seat every bullet half way, then turn it 180 degrees and finish seating it to help get the most bullet to case cocentricity. you will also measure the concentricity (run-out) of every bullet/case finished assembly.
8. You will measure the overall length of the loaded round with a comparator off the ogive, and not the meplat.
9. You will set your c.o.a.l. (cartridge over all length) to where the loaded round's bullet will be resting .005" or so off the lands, depending on waht YOUR rifle prefers.
10. You will uniform the meplats of every bullet.
11. You will buy as many primers as can at a time to get as many as you can in the same production run, known as the lot number. The same with powder.
12. You will diregard (lower) velocity numbers in exchange for accuracy/consistency.
And in this level of handlaoding, using a rock chucker (a fine average press!)is like a gunsmith trying to build a rifle using no other tool than a chain saw. (No offence to single stage users, I'm one too. Were speaking of UTMOST accuracy here.) To attempt to use a Dillion progressive at this level of handloading is like said gunsmith trying to build said rifle with nothing other than a rock. (No offense to the Dillion Crowd: Dillion is by far the finest progressive metallic cartridge loadoing press in the world. I had a 550, sold it, and consider it to be in the top 10 of my life's mistakes.)
You will use "hand dies" that require the use of a mini arbor press. See Wilson brand dies.
You might, maybe, possibly get away with using a forster co-ax single stage press.The most accurate single stage press in the world.
etc. etc.
I'm sure I forgot to add some critical steps....
It's cool to see another budding accuracy fiend.
Truly accurate loads and rifles are those that you would swear it looks as though one single bullet passed through the paper, even though it was five.
The best I ever got was a .097" group out of a box stock Rruger number 1 .243 with handloads. It looked like one hole from one bullet, but if you looked close you could see the hole was not round but just slightly oval. And in bechrest matches, they would laugh at that.
I emply as many of the above techniques that I can afford etc. It pays off. I have my homemade "frakenstien" (assembled from many manufactueres parts) cheap ar-15 16" carbine shooting .8" groups @ 200 yards.
Do you really want utmost accuracy?
If not, you can make very accurate loads with more conventioanl gear like some of the items previously posted, but utmost accuracy is utmost accuracy!
I know LITTLE of the concept of "truly accurate."
Have fun!!! and make them as perfect as you can with whatever you can afford.
13 year precision machinist/ 20+ year handloader. Too poor to be an F class (1000 yard) bench rest competitor.
