Remington 700 action Blue print

yoteblaster

Active member
I have a remington 700 LVSF that shoot good but I would like it even better. Can it be blue printed without having to rechamber the gun.
 
How is that done?

My understanding is on a true blueprint, they not only true the receiver and bolt face, but trued the recoil lugs and abatements. Also chased the threads to true them with the action.

It seem this would definitely change headspace and make the barrel loose fitting in the receiver?
 
Kind of a trick question/answer, and I was wondering if anyone was gonna take the bait
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There is not enough barrel shank on a factory LVSF to fully blueprint the rifle (properly) IMO. In other words, you would have to actually cut the threads off and there simply isn't enough shank left to do this and rethread and rechamber the barrel. A new barrel would be needed. Hence, you would not be 'rechambering' anything.

Now some guys say they do it, but fact is, they are cutting corners, and just truing the receiver face, lapping the lugs, truing the bolt face. To many, this is what they think blueprinting is.

It would not be worth the time and money to fully blueprint an action, in the truest sense of the word, and put the factory tube back on it, anyway.....
 
LOL !

I was just sitting here and watching the bait.


He could true the action face and lap the lugs, set the barrel back a touch. Proly wouldn't make a diff on how the factory barrel shoots anyway.

Leave it or rebarrel.
 
Thanks, the season is winding down and I need something to screw with. It shoots very well right now, so I will stop trying to waste my cash.
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgunKind of a trick question/answer, and I was wondering if anyone was gonna take the bait
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A new barrel would be needed. Hence, you would not be 'rechambering' anything.



Semantic's
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I could argue that if a new barrel was put on a rifle with another chamber, the rifle (not the barrel) was re-chambered.

He did ask about re-chamber "the gun", not the barrel.... So yes the gun would be re-chambered.
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If you want it to shoot better I'd look at other things. How about bedding? I've found you can greatly increase accuracy by having the action bedded.

Trigger? I changed my new Xmark out for a Timney, that helped a lot too.

I'm not sure about the stock you have. I took the stock off my SPS and ordered a B&C, this made a big difference.
 
I have a 700 SPS Tactical that shoots really well and asked my gun smith about the value of blue printing it.. in his professional opinion, it wasn't worth the money unless I was going to install an new barrel...If it was a poor shooting rifle, then that was a different matter...

Maybe this helps and maybe not, just the information I was given by someone that stood to make some money out of the process..
 
If you want your 700 to shoot better, then buy some wind flags...best and cheapest accuracy tool on the market.

Most riflemen think their bullet just shoots right through the wind with no effect....jeez....

Lots of articles on accuracy, top equipment this and that. One of the most important tools is a wind flag.

Playing the odds on the wind being consistant all the time is not a good gamble.

I wore out more than a few barrels trying to improve accuracy in my younger days when I was ignorant of how wind really reaks havoc on groups. I was astonished the first time I put a wind flag 25 yards in front of my target and shot groups with my Rem 700 in 22/250 and 6 Rem with major improvement. What was flabbergasting was effective a wind flag is in improving groups.

I am still using the same wind flags I bought in 1985. No telling how much money in components, driving time back and forth to the range(gas money), and wear and tear on the barrels those wind flags have saved me over the years.

Bottom line, what I thought was a calm steady wind was anything but. With a wind flag, you can see the wind sling bullets around like they are tied on a balloon.

Every serious rifle looney should own at least one wind flag to learn how wind effects the bullet, and it will improve your shooting in the field.

Yote blaster, if you want your 221 to shoot better with little money spent, buy two wind flags, put one at 25yds and another at 75-80yds.

Go to www.benchrestcentral.com and look in the classifieds for wind flags...they all work!

Good luck!
 
Quote:I guess they were magic bullets or something??????? They must have been "Magic"... Otherwise the really good benchrest shooters have wasted a lot of money on their wind flags during the local shoots...
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I've got a couple of rifle that I've full fledge blueprinted and some that have just been squared, lugs lapped, recoil lug surface ground. To me I can't tell the difference in the two. Maybe if I was competition BR shooting and I wanted to be sure that everything possible was done to enhance accuracy then I probly would full fledge blueprint it( but most BR shooter shoot custom actions anyways). For the average shooter/hunter or ever a pretty dang good shot, you want be able to tell the difference in the two. At least in my trials and tribulations. And there's no way to prove either way becuase the barrel has to be rethreaded, so things are exactly the same.
 
Precision mating of the barrel to the receiver is an often overlooked or "skipped" step, because it takes time/money. It is absolutely one of the most important steps IMO......
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgunPrecision mating of the barrel to the receiver is an often overlooked or "skipped" step, because it takes time/money. It is absolutely one of the most important steps IMO......

I beleive the squareing up of everything( action, lug, barrel face) is but don't see the need to single point the threads. Which is usually the only step skipped in the blueprinting process. Like I said there is no way to prove it but I'm saying .1" differnece in groups at the most.
 
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