Blood on a stretched and dried pelt at an auction will likely cost you big bucks - what would a fur buyer expect of the rest of the way the pelt was prepared if there was blood on the finished product? On the flip side, doing a little extra work will pay off at an auction.
I would recommend brushing the fur before it's even off the carcass. Brushing gets out the burdocks and other stuff that can cause you problems when fleshing. Tails are usually full of all kinds of seeds, hitchhikers and burrs.
Once skinned and fleshed, I like to put about 2 gallons of cool water in a 5 gallon bucket. Rinse the pelt good. Refill with cool water, add some cheap shampoo, work it in good. Refill the bucket with cool water and rinse out the shampoo, then hang to drip dry for a few hours.
Whip the remaining water out, then board fur in. The rinsing process adds a lot of moisture, so you will need to keep that fan going and warmer, dry air will help. Apply liberally borax in the area that are drying slow (face/lips, armpits, tail) . Borax is really cheap for a big box. Front legs need only enough length to cover the holes, so cut 'em shorter to speed up drying that area. Stitch any big holes early in the drying process. Turn the hide before when the leather is getting rubbery. Some guys like to put the stretcher upside down and brush the fur "backwards" until it's dry - this can add to a fluffier looking dried pelt.
It sounds like more work that it is, but like many things you should expect to get out of it what you put in to it. Good luck.