Rock River 2-stage trigger AND JP springs?

moonshine44

moonshine44

Well-known member
Or one or the other? I've seen folks here touting the benefits of the RRA 2-stage trigger by itself, the JP springs by themselves, and the two of them together. I'm a bit confused as to the optimum way to go with this. Opinions from those who have done one or the other of these mods?

I just got my first AR up and running, but the trigger in the PC lower is pretty heavy. I'm more than a little bit addicted to a nice trigger pull, so I'm already thinking LegoLand, er, uh, new trigger, ya know?
 
As a guy who runs that very combo in, IDK, half a dozen lowers, I think it's a great trigger. Esp for the money. I use the JP springs to replace the trigger spring and disconnector spring, but not the hammer spring. This way I don't slow down the lock speed and don't worry about light hammer strikes. The disconnector spring is the tough one, as you have to remove the pin that holds the disconnector, and it is peened in there. I do that, and use the JP disconnector spring but trim it a little at a time till I get the 2nd stage pull that I want. Mine are at about 1.25 lbs for each stage. No malfunctions yet.
 
I just went through the same thing with my PC lower. I put the RRA NM in. I have a JP kit, but I think I'm going to be real happy with the RRA stock. Great low cost trigger.
 
I had been running the yellow trigger and hammer spring and the factory disconnector spring. Trigger was at 3 1/4 lbs. After reading 204AR's post I just put the factory RRA spring back on the hammer. The trigger is now 3 lbs even,wasn't expecting that to happen.

I have 2 RRA NM triggers and the one I was just messing with has always felt differant then every other RRA NM trigger I have ran. Not bad just differant.
 
204 AR what did you do to get the peened pin out? Do you just pound it out with a punch or do you try to remove the end with a grinder or something like that first?
 
I tried it and had to put the RRA springs back in cause the trigger wouldn't reset till I pushed it forward after firing...
 
Originally Posted By: Travis81204 AR what did you do to get the peened pin out? Do you just pound it out with a punch or do you try to remove the end with a grinder or something like that first?

Yeah I dremeled the peened end off flush, then it will punch out pretty easily. Then trial and error till I had the spring how I wanted it. Only way to test that I know of is to put it all back together and try it, then take it apart and trim more if needed. Then (don't laugh) JB welded the head of the pin to the trigger housing. Looks like this:

SDC10236.jpg


This is not for the faint of heart, esp your first one, lol. Believe me, I was pretty leary of trying this because I'd never heard of anyone doing it before. But after installing a Geisselle for a buddy, I knew that disconnector spring had to be lightened if I wanted a lighter 2nd stage. Also, if you try it, check the trigger after the first couple of range trips to make sure your JB weld is holding up. I had to glue a couple of them twice as it broke loose on me. But no problems since, even on the harder kicking 300 saum. In fact that's what this trigger is from.
 
Originally Posted By: MPFDI tried it and had to put the RRA springs back in cause the trigger wouldn't reset till I pushed it forward after firing...

That's common on a new trigger, until it's broken in. A buffing wheel on the dremel will speed up the break-in. Some are rougher than others.
 
And guys, I'm not telling anyone to modify their trigger group, that's entirely up to you all. Don't do it if you're not comfortable or if you don't have a pretty good understanding of how these things work. I'm just sharing my experience and technique of turning a $90 trigger into one that feels (IMO) more like one costing a lot more. If I only had one lower, I may very well have put a higher end trigger in it. But there's no way I could justify a $250 trigger in each of 6 or 7 lowers.
 
Just try the JP springs by themselves,simple 15 min. project,dont like it it's easy to reverse.I Put the JP kit on my bushmaster and love it, it breaks clean a bit over 3 lbs.
 
I put the JP springs in 2 plumcrazy lowers in the last week. I wasn't impressed with the results honestly. Both lowers started out with a trigger pull of 5.5 pounds. Now after doing the 3.5 pound yellow springs both pulls are 5 pounds. I expected more, but for 10 bucks it was worth a shot.
 
The PC fire control group is different than a 'Mil spec' FCG, although the lower will accept any milspec FCG. The PCF FCG is already a lower weight pull than the mil spec version so results may vary and be less stellar than the improvements seen over a ~9lb trigger pull on a normal milspec FCG.
 
JB Weld...it`s better than bail`n wire on the Farm..lol
I thinks me read that once on the package.

ETA- thanks for that input though serious. I bought RRA 2 stage, and the JP springs but so far just went with the trigger as is.
 
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Thanks 204 I did mine today. I have had the springs for a little while now but was a little nervous about messing with the trigger like that, and no one had said how they replaced the detent spring before this, that I have seen. The trigger feels much better now, dont have anything to measure the weight with but definitely lighter. Hopefully I can go shoot it this weekend to really try it out. P.S. there is nothing wrong with JB weld its one of the greatest inventions ever!
 
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