What's the best way to sight in or zero this scope. I've read where people sight scopes in in at 50yrds and that's good to 2 or 300yrds. I would think if using the reticles the windage would be off since its a longer shot. I have also found when trying to sight the scope in that if I turn the magnification alll the way up my shots are a pretty good ways off. Any one got reasoning for this?
Sighting in the coyote special scope
- Thread starter Pucker
- Start date
NeverNoLuck
New member
I sight in at 25 to get on paper real close, then back out to 100. If you plan on shooting further, you should practice that range, don't rely on anything else
Last edited:
Tim Neitzke
New member
1.. If you got the scope new it should have instructions on set up. Or look it up on Nikon's site. You need to prove it once it's set up at all ranges.
2.. Reticles do not adjust for windage,that's up to you.
3.. If you turn the power up or down and your POI changes( "a pretty good ways" ) on the main ret, the scope is JUNK.
2.. Reticles do not adjust for windage,that's up to you.
3.. If you turn the power up or down and your POI changes( "a pretty good ways" ) on the main ret, the scope is JUNK.
NeverNoLuck
New member
Originally Posted By: Tim Neitzke
3.. If you turn the power up or down and your POI changes( "a pretty good ways" ) on the main ret, the scope is JUNK.
Good info
3.. If you turn the power up or down and your POI changes( "a pretty good ways" ) on the main ret, the scope is JUNK.
Good info
If I were sighting it in I'd put a target at 100 yds. and put 2 small marks 1.5" apart vertically. I'd put the lower part of the 1st big circle on the lower mark and adjust point of impact until you get the zero you want (100 or 200). Obviously if you're zeroing at 100 yds. the point of impact would be on the upper mark (dead center on the 3 MOA circle). If you're zeroing for 200 yds. then find out how high your load will impact at 100 and ensure the group is centered that much above the higher mark. All this oughtta' be done at the optic's highest power, since as the magnification is lowered the reticle subtension will increase (the 3 MOA circle gets bigger).
That's the nice aspect of Nikon is that the catalog is very thorough when it comes to reticle details (especially subtension), although I guess the Spot-On program has all that info too?
That's the nice aspect of Nikon is that the catalog is very thorough when it comes to reticle details (especially subtension), although I guess the Spot-On program has all that info too?
So what your saying is I need to zero the rifle with the magnification on its highest power. And yes the manual says zero at 100yards then to set the reticles pull the turrets up and turn to zero and release. Supposidly that's suppose to set the reticles out to 4 or 500yrds. I don't believe I could find anytjing on having the magnification turned up or down. I'm gonna also give nikon a call and see what they have to say.
Pucker using the system I detailed if the optic is not at it's highest power then the 3" circle (at 100 yds.), will no longer measure (subtend) 3". It will be larger, so if you zero (as noted above) the 100 yd. zero will be lower than the center of the circle.
I assume when they tell you to raise the turret lock they must be talking about the target turret system and all they're telling you to do is turn the graduated ring to "0" (once the rig is actually zeroed), so you can use the turrets for long-range shooting if you wish (instead of the lower circles, or in addition to the lower circles if you wanna' shoot way out there--some do).
To understand what happens to subtension when you change the power of the scope, put the top of the circle on some reference point of the target at the optic's highest power, and note where the lower part of the circle is on the target. Now crank the power of the scope to 1/2 the highest power (4.5 for a 3-9, or 7 for the 4.5-14), and do the same thing, and you will see that the circle now occupies 2X the 100-yd measurement. The only part of the reticle that doesn't change is the optical center (where the center crosshairs are in most other scopes).
Some of these concepts you kinda' have to think about some--they don't really come intuitively...at least they didn't for me.
You could actually use the center circle itself to measure how much adjustment you need to get the scope zeroed dead center on the circle, since it's 3" @ 100 yds. diameter (at highest power), right? Suppose your 1st 2 shots are right at the right edge of the circle. To get zeroed you have to move the turret left 1.5". Remember there is a scale on the graduated ring of the turret that's 1/4" @ 100yds. Then just go left 6 clicks or "1.5" more than the turret's currently set at. See how it works?
I assume when they tell you to raise the turret lock they must be talking about the target turret system and all they're telling you to do is turn the graduated ring to "0" (once the rig is actually zeroed), so you can use the turrets for long-range shooting if you wish (instead of the lower circles, or in addition to the lower circles if you wanna' shoot way out there--some do).
To understand what happens to subtension when you change the power of the scope, put the top of the circle on some reference point of the target at the optic's highest power, and note where the lower part of the circle is on the target. Now crank the power of the scope to 1/2 the highest power (4.5 for a 3-9, or 7 for the 4.5-14), and do the same thing, and you will see that the circle now occupies 2X the 100-yd measurement. The only part of the reticle that doesn't change is the optical center (where the center crosshairs are in most other scopes).
Some of these concepts you kinda' have to think about some--they don't really come intuitively...at least they didn't for me.
You could actually use the center circle itself to measure how much adjustment you need to get the scope zeroed dead center on the circle, since it's 3" @ 100 yds. diameter (at highest power), right? Suppose your 1st 2 shots are right at the right edge of the circle. To get zeroed you have to move the turret left 1.5". Remember there is a scale on the graduated ring of the turret that's 1/4" @ 100yds. Then just go left 6 clicks or "1.5" more than the turret's currently set at. See how it works?
Tim Neitzke
New member
Originally Posted By: PuckerSo what your saying is I need to zero the rifle with the magnification on its highest power.
Every scope , all the time.
Every scope , all the time.
Well guys I just got done sighting this scope in I was about to get aggravated but I stayed with it. At 100yards on the laser I could group 3 shots about the size of a quarter on full magnification. Now for the test I was so worried about I set up 2 of the mini mtn dew cans. I squeezed one shot off on full magnification boom disintegrated can one on to can 2 on the least magnification I barely see the can I squeezed baby one more time.....booom can no.2 disintegrated. Thanks for the help guys.