Sling stud for FF tube with no pre-drilled stud?

I use the type with the nut on the back, but I put a couple plastic or rubber washers on the front and back so it doesn't mar the finish and stays put. I have a pair of needle nose pliers with the tips bent that allow me to get ahold of the nut in the tube. I got them from Bellm TC's and they are for Contender spring installation. Works great.
 
Great post, I was just wondering the same thing... I'm leaning towards the type with the nut on the back. It's probably a little more reliable than the drill and tap type. The tapped stud on my R-15 gets a bit loose, so every now and then I check it and apply loc-tite as needed. I should probably use the red loc-tite and be done with it. That stuff is pretty tough...
 
Guys, i really have to warn you about 2 things when putting a sling stud in a FF tube, and I have to say that I don't recomend it.

1. If you ever want to put a different barrel on the odds of having that stud line up again perfectly on the bottom are pretty slim.

2. There is not much meat on FF Tubes, so if you decide you want one in there, and are not to worried about changing it out in the future, make sure to use the type with a nut on the back. The drill and thread type can yank out of that aluminum fairly easily.

If you do decide to start installing swivels yourself, it is a good idea to make or buy a guide jig for guiding the drill bit so that you drill straight and not at any angle.

Don't hurry and line it up a few times to make sure it is where you want it and everything is square. As it is alot easier to check it extra carefully then it is to fill a poorly drilled hole in.
 
Mine come drilled and tapped already with a timing ring.
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Kies,

If you don't recomend puting a stud on the FF tube then what exactly do you recomend? I have an oly K8 and that is the only place to put a stud from what I can see? Are there other options? Any type of quick attach that can be applied without drilling a hole?
 
Hi AR243wssm. I'm studying the same issue right now: how to install a sling swivel stud on my non-ventilated free float hand guard. Please let me know how that DPMS system works for you and the details of how you installed it.

Thanks in advance
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Jayhawk
 
Hey, eneranch, did your gunny remove your hand guard or did he just drill the hole with the hand guard on the rifle? Thanks for considering my question!

Jayhawk Dan
 
Originally Posted By: Jayhawk DanHey, eneranch, did your gunny remove your hand guard or did he just drill the hole with the hand guard on the rifle? Thanks for considering my question!Jayhawk Dan

Jayhawk Dan - To be honest I have no idea how they did it; but they did put a nut inside the HG.
 
On my Colt AR I drilled and tapped the stud hole then used lok-tite, along with screwing a nut on the stud inside the tube. My 6.8 AR has a YHM forearm with a 3 inch bottom rail section at the end. I used a Daniel Defence sling attachment that mounts to the rail.
 
I use the 1.99 studs from midway and put a nut on the inside. I've been using the yankee hill tubes that come with a lock nut so changing barrels and losing your position isn't a problem.
 
If you have a Scheels nearby, they have a machine screw threaded sling mount that comes with a stainless steel, low profile threaded nut "piece" that keeps your clearance from the barrel. I was having trouble with the nut in the inside because I have a bull contour and didn't have room for the nut. This little deal worked really well and I'm really confident in it's durability.
 
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