So, you've screwed up and pushed the shoulders back too far...

R

RiverRider

New member
...well, not you, but ME.

Between the time I finished some .223 load development with a new powder and actually got around to stuffing a batch brand new brass, my sizing die got misadjusted. It may have been when I replaced the Redding die lock rings with new Forster lock rings, but the error was committed long enough ago that I just can't say. All I know is that that whole batch of brass got the shoulders pushed back an extra 0.010" before the first loading and I started seeing separations right off the bat.

So, I'm going to salvage the powder for sure. I'll write off the primers but I'll see about salvaging the bullets too (50-grain SXs). Shouldn't be too much trouble.

I saw another thread about necking .223 down to .222, so that's a possibile use for the brass, but I don't look forward to all that labor and would rather avoid it.

I've seen mention of hydraulic case forming, but I've looked at Hornady's site and that comes at too steep a price.

Any clever alternatives out there? I can toss the brass with a scowl on my face and be done with it, but if there is a way to remedy the problem I'd give it a shot.
 
I would try pulling the bullets out just enough to seat them back so they are in the lands and fire form the brass. Shouldn't be any different than fireforming brass for wildcats. Right now the case is moving around, seating the bullet into the lands will hold it in place. Worth a shot.
 
Originally Posted By: 450 DakotaI would try pulling the bullets out just enough to seat them back so they are in the lands and fire form the brass. Shouldn't be any different than fireforming brass for wildcats. Right now the case is moving around, seating the bullet into the lands will hold it in place. Worth a shot.
+ 1. This will work if you can cheat the bullet out far enough to stick it in the lands and hold the case head against the bolt face.
 
Another possibility (after pulling bullets and dumping powder):

If you have a somewhat larger caliber die, such as a .24 or .25 caliber, you could run the neck only over the larger expander to increase the neck diameter. Then size the neck back to .22 with the regular die and leave a "mini" shoulder to establish the desired headspace. If you use this method, you may want to remove the de-capping pin.
 
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Not worth the risk to try depriming them! Shoot the primers out if you must remove them. What are we talking about here? ..... Maybe $10 bucks?
 
Do whatever suits you best, obviously.
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I played with matches a lot when I was younger, and I never got burned .... until I DID.
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I just don't see that taking what I consider a risk is worth the $10 or so that it saves. But that's coming from an old fart who isn't as brave as he used to be.
 
THE FIX


Purchase a long tapered expander for a 6mm Redding. Lube the inside of the case necks with a Q tip and Lee Sizing wax.

Expand the necks up to 6mm, then neck down and set headspace, don't even bother de priming the cases.

Now, if you are in the mind to de prime the cases, put on a pair of safety glasses and go at it like a big dog. I have knocked live primers out of thousands of cases, saved the primers and used them again, no problems.

So, don't create another problem where you have none.

How many cases do you have that will need fixing?

By the way, Hornady lock rings are the best on the market, Forester are a distant second place, check them out and get rid of all those crappy rings that are a [beeep] to re set and lock into place.
 
Originally Posted By: HidalgoNot worth the risk to try depriming them! Shoot the primers out if you must remove them. What are we talking about here? ..... Maybe $10 bucks?

Pushing primers out is perfectly safe. They won't pop because of how they work.
 
Originally Posted By: pahntr760Originally Posted By: HidalgoNot worth the risk to try depriming them! Shoot the primers out if you must remove them. What are we talking about here? ..... Maybe $10 bucks?

Pushing primers out is perfectly safe. They won't pop because of how they work.

From the Dillon reloading site:

Depriming live primers is hazardous, as it is very easy to set one of while depriming. If you must, first dump the spent primers out of the spent primer catcher cup. Fill the cup partway with water. Now very gently deprime them. The reason to fill the cup with water is so that if you detonate a primer while depriming, the other primers already in the cup won't ignite.

Perhaps the folks at Dillon don't know what they are talking about? They only make reloading equipment. And yeah, I know they have attorneys who advise them.

This has been discussed 100 times here and other places. Everyone can do what they feel is safe. But I'm not going to take that chance over a small amount of money, and honestly it's not worth arguing with friends over the issue.
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Be careful whatever you do. I'd hate to see any of you get injured.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!
 
Looks like straight lawyer talk, but whatever.

I pop out lives any time needed. Everyone do as they wish, but it is perfectly safe. Especially when you see how a primer actually ignites...but I digress.



 
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Originally Posted By: HidalgoOriginally Posted By: pahntr760Originally Posted By: HidalgoNot worth the risk to try depriming them! Shoot the primers out if you must remove them. What are we talking about here? ..... Maybe $10 bucks?

Pushing primers out is perfectly safe. They won't pop because of how they work.

From the Dillon reloading site:

Depriming live primers is hazardous, as it is very easy to set one of while depriming. If you must, first dump the spent primers out of the spent primer catcher cup. Fill the cup partway with water. Now very gently deprime them. The reason to fill the cup with water is so that if you detonate a primer while depriming, the other primers already in the cup won't ignite.
I have removed primers before from live rounds. I can understand the warnings and wouldn't recommend it to others. With that said primers are potentially the most dangerous part of hand loading. The older I get the fewer risks I can afford to take.
I know those rounds can be safely savaged but it's not my deal.

Perhaps the folks at Dillon don't know what they are talking about? They only make reloading equipment. And yeah, I know they have attorneys who advise them.

This has been discussed 100 times here and other places. Everyone can do what they feel is safe. But I'm not going to take that chance over a small amount of money, and honestly it's not worth arguing with friends over the issue.
wink.gif


Be careful whatever you do. I'd hate to see any of you get injured.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!
 
It IS straight lawyer's talk.

I've punched out plenty of live primers, like I've said and never had an issue. I do find it odd, though, that some have reported detonations while punching primers in. Not sure just what to make of that, but how can I say "no, that did not happen?"

I'll go so far as to say that whoever wrote the Dillon piece id full of [beeep] as a Christmas turkey. Maybe they aren't hip to the advent of the modern primer, but if a primer's going to detonate while punching it out, it's going to happen at least a few microseconds before the primer lands in the recommended cup of water.

Furthermore, MANY have reported that killing primers is not near as easy as some would have you believe. Even soaking them in some lubricant oils for hours won't kill them.

It's the same old song and dance over and over...mythology vs. fact. Sometimes mythology receives more recognition than fact, though.
 
Since it's 223 brass, I'd toss it after depriming. You can buy once fired L C brass for $60 a thousand, there's a link on accurate shooter bulletin board today.
 
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