Some Vortex Viper "findings"...........

2muchgun

New member
Well, I owned a Viper for a short time, and sold it. Not because I thought it was an inferior product, and not because I did not think it was worth the money I paid for it. I just wanted another NF.

In the limited time I owned it, I had some "sneaky suspicions" about it.

Without writing a novel here, I'll try to put this in the most basic of terms so everyone can understand.

The reticle was canted. And so is the reticle of the Viper my friend owns.

What does this mean? Generally what it means is that when you adjust for elevation, you will also end up getting a small amount of windage adjustment with it. Basically, your crosshair is moving diagonally. Although not so pronounced, and nowhwere near the 45° angle most of us picture in our minds when we hear the term "diagonally".

I am guessing it is 1-2° off. What does this amount to? As best I can tell, if I dial up 30", I would end up with about 30.75"=31" of elevation travel. However, you would then have to dial your windage back a couple of clicks to regain center.

The other Viper, does the same thing, only the click values are a hair off. In other words, assuming the reticle was in fact not canted, it would still move a bit more than the 1/4" designated on the dials. Add to the fact that reticle is canted, and this compounds the problem, making it more pronounced. For anyone but a long range shooter, this is not THAT big of a deal. However, for a LR shooter who is trying to get the most out his precision rifle, it is deemed as totally unacceptable. In fairness, a LOT of scopes suffer from the same problem(s). Furthermore, A LOT (I'd say most) shooters will never, ever know it. At shorter ranges, it simply isn't that noticeable and at longer ranges the shooter could easily blame it on himself, the wind, or the rifle. I guarantee many out there who read this have scopes with canted reticles and do not know it. And I'm not referring only to Vipers, nor close.

In regards to windage, some "lesser" scopes, and even some "better" scopes, will exhibit diagonal travel, but only when near the end of their adjustment range. In other words, if you max the dials out left or right, when they near the end where they stop turning, the crosshair will travel diagonally for the last half dozen or so clicks. Some manufacturers actually take this into account. In other words, if they say it has 55 moa of windage, the diagonal movement will not occur until 55 moa of travel has occured. Others "fudge" the facts, and even though the dial turns 55 moa, the last 5 moa (or whatever)may be diagonal movement, meaning the scope does not truly have 55 moa of windage. This was also the case with the Vipers I have used.

Given the fact that I only have experience with 2 Vortex Vipers, it is hardly enough evidence to say that they suck, or that I dislike them. Again, I would bet that most happy Viper owners would never even know their reticles were canted a degree or two, if in fact, that was the case.

I'd like to hear from some Viper owners in regards to my findings.

Thanks...........



 
Not near the comparison that you have made or noticed since I just run my stuff hunting. I had two of the regular vipers served their purpose but sold them to fund other things. I picked up one of the new viper HS LR and to me in the little bit that I have messed with it it is alot better optic.
 
2Much- I have a Viper and until now, never gave the reticle much thought. I use a Level-Level-Level to install my scopes. One level in the chamber ( on most rifles and a good flat spot on others) and the other level on the scope itself. How can I tell if my reticle is canted using this set-up? I am assuming, this is a problem that shows up mostly shooting extreme long range and not so noticable at shorter distances.
 
Do not confuse a canted reticle with the way you have intalled the scope. What I am referring to is an internal defect. If you have a canted reticle, the reticle is not square to your turrets. In other words, if the reticle is installed straight up and down, the turrets will be slightly off,or out of square, in relation to your rifle. If the turrets are square to your rifle, the crosshair will be off, or not perfectly straight up and down. You can't fix it. The factory has to..........
 
2MG--just curious....is this something you check with every scope? How far do you need to shoot in order to determine this is in fact the case and not the shooter. Seems like this would be a very tedious and time consuming process.
 
Thanks for sharing your `findings`..sounds like they aren`t too bad of a scope for `most` users. Wondered if you would ever get around to sharing your experience with them, thanks again.
 
Were these the plain old Vipers or the newer PST's? I've been saving for a FFP PST in 6x-24x and would like some real world input on one before I drop the cash. I'm hoping to finish my 243 project out with it.
 
I plan on checking the clicks on my 6-20X viper and a leupold varmint scope this weekend.I made up a drop chart on a big piece of cardboard just for this purpose.
 
The canted reticle thing.... yup, actually pretty common. One way to correct this is to change the method of mounting the optic.

I used to do the whole thing... level the rifle... level the scope... tighten carefully... check for level... go out and shoot.... Sometimes that works fine... other times not, particularly if the reticle is canted.

The method I use now is as simple as it is effective.

I set a colored string or piece of twine about 30 yards down range from my shooting bench... usually secured in front of a plain piece of paper... or target flipped backwards... The idea is to get good contrast on the string. I secure some kind of weight to the bottom of the string and let gravity hold it perfectly vertical. Wind will move things around so a windless day is best for me.

Level the rifle. I mean really level the rifle. Lock it in position if possible back at the bench. I haven't had much success locking it down mechanically... like in some sort of vice or something, so I sandbag it. Once the rifle is in proper position, checked and re-checked, compare the strings position in relation to the reticle position. Turn, twist or move the scope as necessary to get perfect alignment. Don't worry what your turrets are doing. If your reticle is canted the turrets will be canted once you correct the reticle. Confirm absolute level of the rifle and lock the optic down.

Check your work by increasing the elevation on the optic through the adjustment range. The cross-hairs should maintain their position in relation to the string.

All I can say is this system works for me and gives me much greater confidence that when I miss at 800 or 900 yards... I missed or miscalculated the wind and it's not my equipment.
 
This method will absolutely work, and one I was going to suggest. Thank you for saving me some typing
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You will still end up with canted turrets, but that may or may not bother some. Otherwise you have to send the scope in for repair, as you cannot level crosshairs and level turrets if the reticle is canted.........
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOREYWere these the plain old Vipers or the newer PST's?

I'm wondering the same just to be certain. I was gonna guess the plain Viper but the comment on selling to get a NF makes me think maybe PST.
 
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Well heres what i came up with today,gonna need bigger cardboard or shoot at 50 yards next time i guess.The vortex gained 1 inch on the first rev and 2 inches on the second rev,then i ran out of cardboard,the viper is the shot string on the left,leupold on the right.I have the vortex viper on my bushmaster varminter and it was a freakin tack driver today.The pic shows two seperate groups each with three shots fired at 100 yards.
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I have a Viper and i love it i dont use my turrets for anything other than sighting in i use Ky windage when in the field buy i hardly ever shoot past 300 yrds and if i miss i feel like the bullet companys employes need a job i always level the gun the level the crosshairs by eye.
 
For leveling my scope I use the siding on the garage across the lake. I quess that could be flawed if they had a crappy carpenter.

AWS
 
I use a laser with a built in level that projects a crosshair image on the wall that I line up the crosshairs of the scope. Before, I used the vertical and horizontal window pane of my house.


Anyway, Good stuff 2MG
 
I've got 3 of them mounted on a .204R, .22-250 and .243.

I've always leveled on cross-hair, not turret, so maybe I don't see it a much.

And just to make sure I understand, basically the crosshairs within the scope, are off a degree or two from how the outside of the scope sits? Or did I totally misread that?

Either way, I'm not a 500+ yard target shooter, I'm a 300-400 yard PD shooter so it is not as important to me as having decent eye relief, reset-able windage knobs, AO and clear magnification, which I feel are all pretty solid with the Viper.
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgun
The reticle was canted. And so is the reticle of the Viper my friend owns.



I'd like to hear from some Viper owners in regards to my findings.

Thanks...........





I have a Diamondback and it's fine. It would bug me if it was off. Nobody wants to shoot with a canted scope. Vortex has the best customer service along with Leupold. Personally, I would send it back for an exchange. Such excellent, inexpensive optics are too good to scrap over an exchange hassle.
 
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