Staked castle nuts

If you are a beauty efficianato and done want to marr the lock ring use some red Lock tite. To break it loose later on you will have to use some heat.
 
Like others have said no it doesn't have to be done I personally choose not to just a little blue loctite I don't like to marr mine up.
 
i dont have a single staked lower. i want to be able to remove the buffer tube.

you torque it down right, under most civilian conditions, you're probably never gonna have an problem.


on a service/duty weapon, or one that will see rough and tumble play (like a 3gun match gun) etc, i'd probably take the extra step and stake the castle nut or locktite the non-castle nut types.


just my $0.02 usd.
 
Meh. I don't stake any of my personal castle nuts and therefore I don't think most NEED it. However, none are likely to go into battle and I also torque them well. Parts get swapped around quite frequently which adds complexity when castlenuts are staked. For the average user it probably won't make a big difference, however, it is a good idea if you intend to leave it like that in that configuration for a while.
 
A staked castle nut is a lot easier to remove than one that's been put on with loctite. If you want to be sure, a little dab of blue loctite will do the trick. Never ever use red. I've changed stocks on a few that were put on with some kind of industrial grade thread locker from the factory, and it was a nightmare. The original buffer tube and castle nut had to go in the trash by the time I was done.

As far as aesthetics go, I don't think a staked castle nut is bad at all. After all, its just the receiver end plate that gets a little ding put in it. Just use a black sharpie marker to cover up the ding, and its hardly noticeable.

Once again - never use red loctite!
 
I have never staked one and never had one come loose. If you are worried about it, use blue Loctite. I would not use red.
 
Originally Posted By: Plant.Onei dont have a single staked lower. i want to be able to remove the buffer tube.

You can remove the buffer tube without removing the castle nut.

you torque it down right, under most civilian conditions, you're probably never gonna have an problem.


on a service/duty weapon, or one that will see rough and tumble play (like a 3gun match gun) etc, i'd probably take the extra step and stake the castle nut or locktite the non-castle nut types.


just my $0.02 usd. [/i]
 
Originally Posted By: Coyotehunter_
Plant.One said:
i dont have a single staked lower. i want to be able to remove the buffer tube.

You can remove the buffer tube without removing the castle nut.


so there!
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Originally Posted By: Rich in VAYou can remove the buffer tube without removing the castle nut.

Huh?

yes, you can actually.

think about it. where is the castle nut when you remove the buffer tube?
 
Originally Posted By: SlickerThanSnotOriginally Posted By: Rich in VAYou can remove the buffer tube without removing the castle nut.

Huh?

yes, you can actually.

think about it. where is the castle nut when you remove the buffer tube?

You still have to back off the castle nut so the receiver end plate doesn't hold the buffer tube in place. The castle nut doesn't have to come off, but it sure as heck has to move.
 
Originally Posted By: cjclemensOriginally Posted By: SlickerThanSnotOriginally Posted By: Rich in VAYou can remove the buffer tube without removing the castle nut.

Huh?

yes, you can actually.

think about it. where is the castle nut when you remove the buffer tube?

You still have to back off the castle nut so the receiver end plate doesn't hold the buffer tube in place. The castle nut doesn't have to come off, but it sure as heck has to move.

Exactly so. The inference, at least to me, was that you could remove the RE without moving the castle nut. Thought I was going crazy........
 
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