Starter equipment

I've used most brands of hand crank trimmers over the years, some altered to use electric screw drivers or drills in lieu of crank. They all work, but I prefer the LEE HAND TRIMMER (<CLICK TO WATCH VIDEO). You can save $100 bucks by using the Lee (if you already have a cordless drill or screwdriver) and get same results as the more expensive bench models. Items needed:

1) Lee Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud $6.00
1) Lee Case Length Gauge and Shellholder $6.00 ea.
You need one gauge for each caliber, so x 5 = $30
1) Lee Chamfer Tool $3.00
Hand trimmers start around $140
 
A pair of side cutters across the top of the press without a die in it will pull a bullet easily. I do it all the time when I don't want to bother changing collets in my puller for one bullet.
 
hm1996 said:
I started reloading 38-40 for a mod. 92 Winchester around 1952 with an old Lyman "Tong tool"View attachment 17417
Stepped up to a Herters single stage press in 1954 for a lifetime suplly of ammo for my hunting needs. When I got into competition shooting, found it took two Dillon 450's to keep up w/rifle and pistol ammo demands.
View attachment 17418
Ammo needs have reduced drastically so sent the Dillons down the road & have come full circle back to the old Herters single stage press.
View attachment 17420

As has been stated, you can spend as much as you want to spend on loading gear. If you decide to stick with it, you will wind up like the rest of us with lots of gadgets to speed up the process or load a bit more accurate ammo, etc.

I started reloading long before chronographs were available to other than laboratories, commercial ammo manufacturers, etc. (due to prohibitive cost). Using loading data and procedures described in most reloading manuals, along with some common sense and a bit of care, you can load perfectly safe "factory grade" ammo without a chronograph. I did find the chronograph very handy in locating the accuracy nodes using ladder method during load development.

Trimming brass is a tedious, albeit necessary step in reloading. I, have owned, and sold, just about every brand & type of trimmer on the market, other than the latest "new motor driven brass preparation tools" that, I am sure, will do all of the above steps. The least expensive and, IMO, the most effective is the Lee Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud in conjunction with the proper Lee Case Length Gauge and Shellholder. I mount the Lee cutter and a CHAMFER DEBURRING TOOL in a piece of hickory and find it quicker to trim and debur every case after firing rather than measure each case and trim only those cases which need trimming. Just chuck the case in lock stud mounted in cordless drill and trim, chamfer then debur in one operation.
View attachment 17414




Never tried or trusted the e-scales. Too many folks had negative results ^^^^Balance scales simple and almost foolproof and the 510 is my favorite as well.
Like AWS, I prefer the micrometer adjustable powder measure for rifle loading but use a measure I built years ago for handgun loading w/the old single stage press.
View attachment 17419

Ditto

Again, simple, inexpensive and effective.

Wouldn't classify reloading as fun, but it is fun but when you work up a load that is far superior to factory ammo it is very enjoyable; other than that, for me, it is just a means to an end. :D

Definitely need at least one reloading manual to read up on necessary procedures/steps/tips in reloading a fired case. More than one is better for load comparisons (not all manuals will agree 100%....I usually check two or three manuals and average starting load, and work up from there. Lots of loading data here: HANDY ONLINE RELOADING DATA

I have probably only bought a dozen boxes of factory center fire ammo over the years, and those were for comparison purposes only. I don't anneal cases, even when I was shooting competition, as I had access to unlimited supply of 30-06 brass back then. Usually get 8-12 reloads to the case and keep each lot of brass separate so each case in a given lot has been fired the same number of times. When primer pockets get loose or the necks split, I start a new lot. I like clean brass so each batch is tumbled, deprimed, trimmed/chamfered, then loaded.
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I'd completely forgot about the Lyman until I seen that pic, Dad had one of those. HAHA. He started me out with a Lee handheld nut cracker
 
000shock said:
Well, looks like ill have a couple hundo for components. Lgs my gift card is for doesnt have rcbs kits, just standard lock n load and ap kits. Ill prob give it a little while and see if stock comes in. If not, spend it on a tumbler and case trimmer most likely. Stuff that doesnt come with rock chucker sup kit.
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I used a Forrester trimmer for years. It will wear you out cranking the handle. Switched to the Lee like the ones in the above posts. Much easier and faster and pretty consistent.

I still recommend starting out with the basics until you figure out if reloading is for you or not. Don't buy a bunch of "stuff" until you decide if its for you.
 
There's a Pacific press on Accurate Shooter site for $20 plus shipping. Not new but not abused either. About as cheap as you'll find and it will get you started.
 
Not going to find anything cheaper than that and the old Pacifics were great presses. Only down side is shipping is pricey nowadays (sold one for a widow friend and IIRC shipping was over $40) and on the old originals, shell holder is integral to the ram. I imagine someone makes a ram to accept new style shell holders (or you could machine an old ram).
 
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