hawkeye reloader
New member
I was considering feeding Wolf ammo in my Springfield Armory XDM 9mm. They recommended that I do not shoot any steel case ammo. What do you guys think?
Steel case ammo?
- Thread starter hawkeye reloader
- Start date
Orneryolfart357
New member
Follow their reccomendations and get some quality ammo. Why risk it?
Bax
New member
Look at it this way- it takes something equally hard or harder to scratch and damage steel, so the steel cases could potentially wear on your chamber. Brass is softer than steel and won't create the wear steel does, so this is likely why they suggest against it. However I have speculated that this is ONE of the reasons they coat the case in lacquer (to mitigate this wear). But that's my speculation, and I may actually be quite wrong on that theory.
I agree with the reloading comment!
I agree with the reloading comment!
Originally Posted By: hawkeye reloader
They recommended that I do not shoot any steel case ammo.
WHY on Earth would you even try to Second Guess them?
Don't you think that goes beyond common sense?
It wouldn't take a 2X4 slapped up the side of my head to
make common sense prevail in this option.
But Hey~~~~~~
They recommended that I do not shoot any steel case ammo.
WHY on Earth would you even try to Second Guess them?
Don't you think that goes beyond common sense?
It wouldn't take a 2X4 slapped up the side of my head to
make common sense prevail in this option.
But Hey~~~~~~
Bax
New member
Originally Posted By: CoyoteOn2
WHY on Earth would you even try to Second Guess them?
So I will own up to a moment that I second guessed Ruger on ammo selection. I bought a Mini-14 and like a good boy I read the owner's manual before I took it to the range. Well, somewhere in the manual it states that they suggest against using any ammunition that is not manufactured within the USA. I cant remember if I called them and asked them about it, or if it later gave an example of using Wolf Ammo... either way, they advised explicitly against Wolf due to extra hard primers that can cause the firing pin to break.
Me, being an arrogant young punk, I decided to shoot some Wolf out of it anyways because I didnt want to spend the extra money on American ammo ( I think a box of 20 rounds of Wolf cost only about $6.00 at the time, and cheaper American Eagle was about $10.00 per 20). And I shot 200 or so rounds out of the rifle without a problem, and one day I pulled the trigger and heard the firing pin come down, but no bang. Thinking it was a misfire I chambered another round and then another and another... soon enough I realized that there was no dimple on these primers. Then I realized that I broke my firing pin!
Unfortunately for me, the Mini-14's firing pin wasnt an easy replacement like on an AR-15, so I had to send it back to Ruger for repair (at my expense). And I got a nice little note with my rifle once it was repaired that simply said something to the effect of "Please do not shoot Wolf Ammunition out of this rifle again."
It doesnt seem like the rifle repair was horribly expensive, but it did take about a month to get it back and that was inconvenient for me.
Moral of the story- the manufacturers know what their guns should and shouldnt shoot. Dont second guess them.
WHY on Earth would you even try to Second Guess them?
So I will own up to a moment that I second guessed Ruger on ammo selection. I bought a Mini-14 and like a good boy I read the owner's manual before I took it to the range. Well, somewhere in the manual it states that they suggest against using any ammunition that is not manufactured within the USA. I cant remember if I called them and asked them about it, or if it later gave an example of using Wolf Ammo... either way, they advised explicitly against Wolf due to extra hard primers that can cause the firing pin to break.
Me, being an arrogant young punk, I decided to shoot some Wolf out of it anyways because I didnt want to spend the extra money on American ammo ( I think a box of 20 rounds of Wolf cost only about $6.00 at the time, and cheaper American Eagle was about $10.00 per 20). And I shot 200 or so rounds out of the rifle without a problem, and one day I pulled the trigger and heard the firing pin come down, but no bang. Thinking it was a misfire I chambered another round and then another and another... soon enough I realized that there was no dimple on these primers. Then I realized that I broke my firing pin!
Unfortunately for me, the Mini-14's firing pin wasnt an easy replacement like on an AR-15, so I had to send it back to Ruger for repair (at my expense). And I got a nice little note with my rifle once it was repaired that simply said something to the effect of "Please do not shoot Wolf Ammunition out of this rifle again."
It doesnt seem like the rifle repair was horribly expensive, but it did take about a month to get it back and that was inconvenient for me.
Moral of the story- the manufacturers know what their guns should and shouldnt shoot. Dont second guess them.
Bax
New member
Originally Posted By: vahunterMost companies don't reccomend steel case ammo or reloads. I wonder how many people don't shoot handloads in their firearms ? I'm guilty, handloads are all I use plus I have put about 3K rounds of wolf and other junk through my mini 14 and ar15.
Out of curiosity, how old is your Mini-14? I ask because the one I had was brand new in 2006. And you know the old saying: "they dont make em like they used to." I have heard several guys say they have never had a problem out of their Mini-14 as well, but theirs were quite a bit older than mine.
Out of curiosity, how old is your Mini-14? I ask because the one I had was brand new in 2006. And you know the old saying: "they dont make em like they used to." I have heard several guys say they have never had a problem out of their Mini-14 as well, but theirs were quite a bit older than mine.
Orneryolfart357
New member
My Mini has had about 1000 rounds of Wolf through it as well, and still works fine. I dont use it anymore but it didnt hurt the rifle. Mine is a 2003 model.
hawkeye reloader
New member
They said steel on steel will wear the chamber out and that you should only use cases made from a metal softer that steel. Frankly it makes a lot of sense to me too but I am totally new to handguns and wanted see what you guys thought.
Steve_in_PA
New member
Sorry, but anyone that says steel cased ammo will wear out your chamber doesn't know what they are talking about. The usual phrase is, "commie ammo for commie guns". So, the steel used in commie firearms is different that the steel used in one made in USA?
The steel cases are softer than the steel of any firearm. I've shoot steel cased ammo in handguns and rifles and none show any damage. Steel cased ammo is not my ammo of first choice, but it is cheaper so you can shoot more.
I've shot over 3k rounds of Wolf ammo out of my AR. The only issues are that some rifles will not reliably function with Wolf due to it often being underpowered. The other issue is carbon build up in the chamber due to the steel cases not sealing as well as brass cased ammo in the chamber.
I reload for everything I shoot. I have thousand upon thousands of rounds loaded for 9mm, 45acp and .223 rifle. If I did not reload or found some steel cased ammo at a good price, I would not pass it up.
The steel cases are softer than the steel of any firearm. I've shoot steel cased ammo in handguns and rifles and none show any damage. Steel cased ammo is not my ammo of first choice, but it is cheaper so you can shoot more.
I've shot over 3k rounds of Wolf ammo out of my AR. The only issues are that some rifles will not reliably function with Wolf due to it often being underpowered. The other issue is carbon build up in the chamber due to the steel cases not sealing as well as brass cased ammo in the chamber.
I reload for everything I shoot. I have thousand upon thousands of rounds loaded for 9mm, 45acp and .223 rifle. If I did not reload or found some steel cased ammo at a good price, I would not pass it up.
NdIndy
New member
Ok, for several posts above. They laquer coat steel because steel rusts, no other reason.
They don't recommend laquer coated rounds in tight chambers like an AR because laquer becomes sticky with heat and can build up a coating in the chamber. Newer wolf ammo uses a paint instead of a laquer (grey instead of green) to prevent this. Grey should be fine, green can lead to problems over time. A loose chamber like an sks, much less of a concern.
Steel cases *CAN* damage steel. Even a slightly softer steel can mar harder steel. Brass is several steps softer and has a much less chance. Just like you can scratch glass with something other than a diamond. You can look at my windshield whenever you want, the odds of diamonds making it that I need a new piece of glass are pretty slim.
For accuracy purposes, when brass is fired it expands to the exact chamber size and seals, steel won't. The effect is very minor, but there.
It's your gun, shoot steel if you want to. The odds of damaging the gun are low, but there. And you won't have reloadable brass when you're done.
They don't recommend laquer coated rounds in tight chambers like an AR because laquer becomes sticky with heat and can build up a coating in the chamber. Newer wolf ammo uses a paint instead of a laquer (grey instead of green) to prevent this. Grey should be fine, green can lead to problems over time. A loose chamber like an sks, much less of a concern.
Steel cases *CAN* damage steel. Even a slightly softer steel can mar harder steel. Brass is several steps softer and has a much less chance. Just like you can scratch glass with something other than a diamond. You can look at my windshield whenever you want, the odds of diamonds making it that I need a new piece of glass are pretty slim.
For accuracy purposes, when brass is fired it expands to the exact chamber size and seals, steel won't. The effect is very minor, but there.
It's your gun, shoot steel if you want to. The odds of damaging the gun are low, but there. And you won't have reloadable brass when you're done.