T/C Compass

[Sgt_Mike]

Just picked one up for a good bit under three bills. When I helped a buddy pick out a suppressor.
I am a little familiar with them, This one is in the 6.5 CM variety, and me with my "supposed" hatred of the caliber by some trolls, yeah right.
There is several things I do like about the rifle without shooting it yet. Three position safety like the later Winchesters, not sure if I really like the three lug bolt yet.
It does seem to run slick (without rounds).
Not sure how I like the rotary mag, some are great some not so much but we will see.
After getting it home the first thing in order was a good barrel cleaning, Hoppes #9, J-B Paste in the throat area. And finally soaking with CLP /Breakfree to loosen any carbon build up.
Bore felt good with jag and patch ( I use this method vs a borescope), which this is actually my preferred method, as I can feel any tight , loose spots. or roughness. Then if they don't shoot I'll then get them scoped. Just the way I do may not be the best, but is my way.
Not having a dedicated scope, I pulled one of the 1.5-4x Leupold's from one of the AR's for a evaluation of it's current state of being. A shooter or not.

So I've really got only two questions.

1. Since I always like to rename the guns I have in the same calibers a bit, or in some cases when I really like them. So when discussing them it keeps them straight. The Remington 700 PCR that some may know I have and posted about in that same caliber I refer to as the "Needsmore" playfully. With it's outsource chassis stock (Cadex Defense) in veil camo, and heavy barrel configuration at 26" it shoots extremely well, bit heavy for lugging around in the woods. But runs great from the bench or ranges. Not the heaviest I own, but a bit much for lugging after vermin. Hence the Light weight of this T/C, which is marked with the S&W logo as well as T/C. Luckily the muzzle was threaded, which is a plus in my book.
What to call this one?

2. This one is not actually important as T/C is known for making good barrels. If I understand my research correctly the barrel shank / tenon is dimensionally the same as a Remington 700 less the bolt nose recess. So a Remage pre-fit barrel is supposed to work, is what I'm understanding. It's not I'm planning on re-barreling this one just wondering what fits in the event I do wish to re-barrel. I'm fully aware the aftermarket accessories is very limited for this make. The question is geared toward me just know if it works that way or not, I'm fairly certain it can be rebarreled if need be. Just basically curious as some may have done this with one.

Besides I seem to like project actions, I keep collecting them.

 

[hunt0168]

1. Since I always like to rename the guns I have in the same calibers a bit, or in some cases when I really like them. So when discussing them it keeps them straight.

What to call this one?

Funny you bring this up Sarge! I have pet names for my Pew-Pew Crew too.

My 243 Tikka coyote gitter is affectionately known as “Parvo”!

Naming guns is best left to the owner in my opinion, so no help there, or with the barrel question.

 

[Sgt_Mike]

I've often looked at the Tikka's, never owned one. But the word on the street is good. The one's I've handled was really nice.
If your shoots on par with the looks, she should be a keeper. You have a nice setup there @hunt0168 .
The .243 is a great cartridge, no slouch at all.


While waiting on a reply I was changing the rings (med to lows, I thought I had a set of them) on "Stubby" yes, the Savage .308 Axis, with the horrific off center profile to bore, that was shortened because of scarring in the last 4 " of barrel. Which is now shooting fair enough to loan out for deer and hogs.

Then put the T/C in the vise for her third cleaning, I swear I don't think the previous owner ever cleaned it.
I finally quit pulling carbon from the bore , just a min ago.

Nothing really special, just a normal budget rifle, but she is way slicker in the bolt than "Stubby". Plus her stock is considerably stiffer. I will say the AR's scope and riser look insanely odd, but just there to do a quick check.
(looking at that I need to freaking clean up LMAO, second thought I'll go shooting maybe the idea of cleaning up will pass)

 

[K22-hornet]

I think the Compass comes with a 5R rifled barrel, like my TC Icon.

It should be a very good shooter, based on my sample on one, in 243.

 

[William Suter]

I've had two Icons and both were well built rifles. Both shot pretty good . I have a friend with a Compass in 7mm08 and he claims it shoots good to. I hated to see T/C drop the Icon line for the cheaper version Compass. Although the Compass will/should be a decent shooter.

 

[hm1996]

I think you know of my love affair with the Model 70's, Mike, especially the pre-64 variety. I was not familiar with the TC Compass, but when I Googled it, instantly fell in love with the safety . Also like the slick action you spoke of. Interested in hearing more about this one as your testing progresses. IDK, but I would think the 3 lugs would be better than two, assuming all three are lapped in properly, of course. Is it a floating head or fixed bolt design?
Shame it isn't a .308, but if it shoots, you got a steal, even if it is a Creedmore .
On another subject, have you ever tried Tactical Advantage "brushless bore cleaner" made by company that makes WipeOut? Lots of different opinions on the best copper/carbon removers discussed @ Strongest cleaner for barrels .

 

[Sgt_Mike]

Well did go and shoot the T/C did respectable.. As well as the Savage 308 Axis again.
Just for giggles I did 3 shot groups as a quick check ( time was the issue, I drug my feet getting there)
Hornady 140gr Match Factory ... 2" outside to outside
Federal Power Points 140 gr... 1-1/8" outside to outside

Tried some of the Imr4895 41.5 gr loads with the 100gr Sierra Varminter ... about 7/8" outside to outside Vertical stringing ( actually this and the other two listed below was too hot primers was backing out a bit. I'll start working backwards from here, in the Rem 700 PCR this load displays NO signs of pressure)
Next load was same except a 0.3 gr increase Groups did tighten up went to horizonal stringing.
The last load was a 0.3gr increase from previous load (so a 0.6 grs increase from 1st IMR 4895 load 42.1grs), at this point groups massively increased, but less than Factory load. Lost the node, at this point is when I was rechecking the primer as the last shot needed some real effort to lift the bolt handle.


----- Impressions for a budget rifle, this works well, really well outside it's price point far exceeds the Savage Axis in operation -----------------------

Flawless bolt operation Three position Winchester 70 style safety. Barrel tenon / shank dia borrowed from the Rem 700 less the bolt nose recess as well as the 5R rifling. Action lug borrowed from the Tikka 3X .
Short throw 60 degree lift sweeettt..
The three lug design is working as many had claimed would. Effortless feeding. The bolt diameter, which fills the ejection port. Lugs and rotary magazine reminds me of a Ruger American. Extractor looks Like a Sako design at a glance.

I'm left with the impression this is a International Harvester Terra Scout... designs and parts from the best of the other makers integrated to a working firearm nothing with a bunch of jazz. Just a solid work horse .
Finally trigger... well here I know the previous owner did apply the M*carbo ( I think I spelled that right IDK) trigger spring kit. It broke clean at 3.5 Lbs, not atrue target trigger but I had no problems with it and was way better than the Savage axis non-accutigger.
Stock was better than the Savage Axis variety by quite a bit, Although a better stock could be had such as a MDT Oryx, although would add a lb or two

Now to shock folks I walked out the door after taxes $267.00. ($245.00 before taxes)

Cons observed today the barrel could be just a bit thicker in diameter, not much of a shoulder for the 5/8 -24 threaded muzzle. Just enough thickness to provide a decent shoulder.
Bolt handle knob could be bigger, but is swept back similar to the Rem's and Winchester. (easy fix , a small round ball knob thread on would be interesting. Say a 8-ball round ball... hey I could do that and call it eight-ball, or just call it eight-ball) if that wouldn't pee in some folks cornflakes....... a 6.5 CM called eight-ball oooh I can hear the fanboy's now.

here is the bolt

LOL just noticed I could have cleaned the grease from the lugs before the picture,
Oh well the next is a bit cleaner...

Notice I didn't do the rifle any favors just picked up the scope from one of my AR's and ran it. Just a 1.5-4 x20 Freedom Leupold.
No bore sight no nothing mount and GO!!!
The other thing working against this rifle is the way the scope base is. It's the dangest thing I've ever saw two pieces... It shouldn't work..
Yeah that will be replaced soon EGW makes a fine base for this rifle...
did some further checking the bases in the Leupold line are the same as the Savage 10/110 round receiver (as as Axis).
So I could use the same windage adjustable bases I used on the Axis... hmmm

now for the bolt throw forgot this earlier

Now for the best group of the day although a 3 shot group Like I said pushed for time... so it is what it is, as this was a load I worked up in the Remington...
Yeah a bit hot for the T/C probably drop 0.6 grs working down to the next node. The extraction was normal, but the primer was just starting to bulge a bit (actually primer flow is the correct term).

now the factory loads

Like I said I spent three days cleaning a metric crap load of carbon from the barrel....
Before shooting today.
I honestly don't think the previous owner ever cleaned it.
I guess I'll never get over observing it (firearms) is a tool that needs to be taken care of, as if my life depends on it.
Budget gun or not.

 

[Sgt_Mike]

On another subject, have you ever tried Tactical Advantage "brushless bore cleaner" made by company that makes WipeOut? Lots of different opinions on the best copper/carbon removers discussed

No I haven't ... might have to give that a look see into ....

added later after the next post I did....
Yes Sir.. Has my interest, now to source some for the next cleaning.
But like DAA stated with the JB (jag and patch) I use it on a used gun straight off, although I restrict myself short of the crown (about half the barrel length). This usually get most of everything smoothed up enough for a range session.

 

[Sgt_Mike]

Shame it isn't a .308, but if it shoots, you got a steal, even if it is a Creedmore .

Wellll we all can't be perfect.......

But on a serious note the cartridge is what actually caused me to lift it from the rack when my hunting buddy was buying his suppressor. As it is a good bit lighter than my Remington 700 PCR (Needsmore) which is actually built for matches, such as PRS in it's factory configuration. Which the caliber does have it's draw's and draw backs. Just not the end all be all but really no caliber is. As much as I actually love the 30-06 there is some thing the .223 do better like shooting gophers the ought - six is expensive to shoot rodents with. Now deer, elk, moose, bear. yeah none better in my opinion. But some would prefer other caliber's and they should use what they like. The 30-06 and 7mm Rem Mag is about as much recoil as I want to stand anymore. The other plus is the women folk I have think the 6.5 CM is really pleasant in the recoil department. My brother in law had some severe issue with his shoulder some few years ago and was on the verge of putting his .270 down and quit deer hunting. I turned him onto a 6.5 CM and he loves it, easier on his shoulder, and will kill deer. He uses the 125 gr deer loads, he has No problem with either his shoulder or dropping his deer. Another two great caliber are the .243 Win and the 6mm Rem. Both just outstanding, although I'll reach for the 6mm Rem before the .243 only because I can push that X57mm case faster a bit. Lord I could go on and on. There is so many that are actually great for our pursuits. But yeah I will pick on my caliber choices, because I know there isn't just one perfect caliber.

This one I can truck around with now that I know it can shoot somewhat.
Now if it hadn't shot wellllll .308 Win or 22 BR Rem here we come... new barrel time . Which kinds of explains the question above.
(Although there is a Rem 700 M24 profile 5R undated barrel still in the wrap short chambered in .308, in the bench just waiting..... haha)

I think as in, Pretty sure that a Remage prefit for a 700 will screw in and work on the compass.
I base that statement on this thread, and the only true way to know is pull the barrel :

Rebarrel thompson center compass

In spite of my best judgment, I bought an oryx chassis on Black Friday. It may have made a very slight accuracy improvement. The pencil barrel looks absurd in the channel. And the brake I installed looks even sillier. But no arguing that the dang rifle shoots. I did have a problem with the...

www.longrangehunting.com

 

[hm1996]

(easy fix , a small round ball knob thread on would be interesting. Say a 8-ball round ball.

An 8 ball knob would be cool. Years ago, I built up a practice target rifle that pretty much duplicated the "feel" of my Mod. 70's on an A3 Springfield action, using a worn out Chandlin barrel taken off my Mod. 70 match rifle.

Started w/26+" barrel, cut of 3" or so to get rid of charred throat and had it rethreaded to fit the A3. Put a Timney trigger in it, The smith did a fabulous job of indexing the front sight screws so that rear sight zeroed within a minute or two of dead center! The shorter barrel shot as well as it did in the Win. and I used it mostly for offhand practice. The slow lock time on the A3 resulted in my POI being one ring outside my offhand calls, but not a problem in practice and saved a lot of wear and tear on expensive match rifle barrels.

In order to help the lock time, I put a stronger FP spring in which increased bolt lift combined w/the shorter A3 Bolt handle to the point it was a problem for rapid fire practice. Quick fix for that was to grind off the bolt knob as close to round as I could, then anneal a 7/8" round ball, drill and solder on stub which added close to an inch to the handle. For every solution, there is a problem....ball was so big, couldn't reach the trigger. Ground bottom flat and stippled, actually put trigger finger in perfect position to lift bolt in RF.

Now for the best group of the day although a 3 shot group Like I said pushed for time... so it is what it is, as this was a load I worked up in the Remington...

Absolutely nothing wrong with that, one sure can't expect that kind of accuracy from a <$300 rifle! Real winner in my book.

Which the caliber does have it's draw's and draw backs. Just not the end all be all but really no caliber is.

I'm sure you know I'm just pickin' on the sub-caliber () rifles.

 

[Sgt_Mike]

I'm sure you know I'm just pickin' on the sub-caliber () rifles.

HA I love picking on the sub-caliber rifles, and I'm right there with you, I do have a blast with it... It's quite fun although many do perform above their pay grade. Truthfully if the 6.5 CM fanboys would shut up, I'd quit picking on the 6.5mm bore. Hornady actually did a great job with the round (6.5 CM) incorporating the case capacity of the 6.5x57mm Mauser (circa 1893-4ish) into a shorter than 51mm case. Hence the parent case of the .30 T/C being used which isn't a slouch when compared to the .308 Win.
The concept of using less body tamper to increase case capacity with a shorter case was done in the wildcat arena long before Hornady sought to look at this design. This doesn't take away from Hornady's efforts or vision, but merely provides insight into the methods they chose. They did well.

.308 Win Left, the 30 T/C in the center, and the 6.5 CM on the right
(yes I borrowed the graphic from Wikipedia to illustrate just how close the mentioned cartridges are)

Which I am a fan of the 6.5mm bore BTW, mainly because of the B.C, the other favorite bore sizes is the 7mm / 6mm which can get even higher in the B.C. department. The thirty bore well, it's just a darling in my book mainly because of the entrance wound and diameter / terminal effects. The 7.62x51mm freedom seeds perform admirably on bad people or on game as well. So yes the 30's are a favorite bore size with me.
Actually come to think of it the .30, 7mm, 6.5mm, 6mm, and the .224 are among my favorites to play with.
The cases well I often refer to them as gaskets for the propellants to launch the projectiles. My hunting buddy, actually laughs when I do that as both of us do play with "wildcats" on occasion.
The other good note most of the guys that work at the range I go to do sometime collect brass for me on occasion. This last trip They handed me a boot box full of .308Win, 6.5 CM, 9mm etc brass. The thing that really got me excited was the amount of .308 Palma Lapula brass (small rifle primed). Outside of it being Lapula nothing special but with primers having been scarce in the past having .308W in two primer sizes makes sense.
Right now the brass has been de-primed and running in the SS Tumbler for cleaning before annealing and running through the resizing dies. The LC will need the pockets swaged.

So where am I at with the Compass, well I do know where the redline is at HAHA. Exactly at the first decent (best) group posted. So now to start dropping from that load 0.3grs at a time until I hit the accuracy node below that load. Yes it was really encouraging. Do I know that I could have the bolt face bushing and the firing pin reduced to run at that level safely? Uhh duhh, yeah I'm fully aware, but this is a budget rifle, with a sporter barrel contour. That load was SRP, so "should" handle a bit more pressure, although not a fact.

But why the light weights vs the de facto 140grs H4350. Known easy button loads?

1. When I get back up to the Sierra factory to pick up seconds, well 100 grs (69 per lb) and 120gr (57/58 per lb) bullets will net me more than using 140grs (49 per lb) bullet when bought by the pound.
Simple economics, they cost less per bullet, when buying by weight / Lbs.

2. Velocity increases are a plus but not the driving factor see point #1 above.

3. Years ago I had accumulated a bunch of 6.5mm in 100grs and 120grs, before I ever acquired the 6.5 CM. See point #1

4. If your still wondering why at this point. And arguing the 1000 yard line, and all the infamous fan boy B.S. . Well I'm not shooting that far now any more, and have went to the 300 and under. So that is a moot argument having no weight in my application. Again see point #1 above. If you don't agree well IRDC ( I Really Don't Care), see point #1.

With "stubby" the Savage Axis in .308 Win if one pays attention I'm using the same principle 100 /110 gr to 125/130 grs WHY???? once more see point #1 above..... amazingly I hear no .308 W fan boys objecting. Quite the opposite. A 125gr or lighter 30 caliber @ 3000+ fps is hades on anything under the 300 yard line. So why shouldn't a slighter smaller diameter, same weight projectile have the same effect? Within the same ranges. Now hopefully everyone understand my purpose of the pursuit, is it the best ? IDK until I try it. But on paper looks sane to me.

My intent is NOT to defend the CM with my war and peace post but to explain my actual view of it. A viable capable cartridge. Is it better?? that is up to the end user honestly. I personally have as much fun with it as the 308 W so yeah I actually do like it. (but the Needsmore Rifle is sitting in the corner... needing well more shooting as well as 8 Ball and stubby)

 

[Sgt_Mike]

now that I've been processing some 308 W brass..., (man can't believe how much Lapula Palma brass there is in this batch)
@hm1996
Yes Sir I'm fully aware you are just doing good natured banter..
None of the above is directed at you, I also know you understand my objective. it actually is nothing more than the last three sentences. But for some reason I felt the need to ramble on.

Next outing with "8-ball" I'll shift to LRP as I may have been getting a false sign from the primers in the SRP brass Although I was using Win #41... so I'll start backwards from that point with the LRP brass to see.. but at 41.5 grs the bolt lift was easy, extraction easy, just a bit of primer cup flow.
your thoughts welcomed

 

[hm1996]

I love picking on the sub-caliber rifles, and I'm right there with you, I do have a blast with it... It's quite fun although many do perform above their pay grade.

I agree; lots of fun bantering back and forth.
I was not familiar w/the 6.5 Creed but from your pictures the straight wall of the cartridge they would be a bit harder on extraction than the tapered case of the 308. I had a 308 Norma and when the barrel gave out, I chambered for 300 WM to ease up extraction, especially on the warmer loads.

 

[Sgt_Mike]

@hm1996
I just went back through the brass.... And where I "thought" that one load that shot good was a bit hot... well I just noticed two different factory load exhibited the same primer flow. So need your thoughts on this and see if it's conformation of my thoughts.

so here is a picture of the factory fired brass primer up. First

This is what gets me both Large Rifle primed and Small rifle primed exhibit primer flow (cratering).

now for the best group loads. (bare in mind the extraction was easy, and the bolt lift was easy as well, same as the factory rounds above, IMR-4895@41.5grs, Primer Win #41, a 5.56mm SR primer)

closeups..

I'll wait and see if your answer is what I'm thinking... My final thought is the load isn't hot.

I was not familiar w/the 6.5 Creed but from your pictures the straight wall of the cartridge they would be a bit harder on extraction than the tapered case of the 308.

The base dia is the same as the .308 Win etc etc (.470"), the shoulder diameter is .462" so a 0.008" taper for 1.490" length (rim to shoulder).
The .308 shoulder is .454" so 0.016" taper for 1.560" length (rim to shoulder). (the dimensions I'm quoting is from Sierra's reloading data load prints)
In the CM normally the extraction is just as easy as the .308 Win.
It was only the last load I fired was when the Bolt Lift became hard ( Yeah that last load was at the upper end of Sierra's data for the 100gr Varminter bullet MAX = 42.4grs of IMR 4895, I was 0.2 grs under the max.)

The above pictures are not of the brass that was hard to lift the bolt, that is a hot load definitely. All of those in pictures the bolt lift was easy, extraction normal and smooth.

But I just looked at the primers and thought huh back off the load. Then I re- looked at the primers again tonight.. not flattened, huh if it was pressure then the primer should be flattened and have a possible flow / crater .... That caused me to look at the factory rounds. Then is when I observed the exact same thing as the Hand loads.
Then it dawned on me I wasn't seeing pressure signs at the accurate load, nor the factory loads.

Now to see if your response / thought matches my thoughts. Which isn't load pressure.
I did google the Compass with this issue and it match my conclusion, this is a sanity check not a let's stump everyone
(one other method to check if it's a primer hardness issue is same load with CCI primer, as usually softest to hardest is Fed, Win, then CCI in primer hardness)

 

[hunt0168]

I’m not a reloader or a gunsmith, but I would have to say it’s excessive clearance between the firing pin and the bolt. Pin diameter too small , or the hole around the pin is too large.

That would be my “guess” but there are about a hundred other guys here that I would listen to before me!

I’m curious to see where this goes.

 

[Sgt_Mike]

or the hole around the pin is too large.

My thoughts EXACTLY of what it is ..... and the fix is to bushing the bolt face closer to the diameter of the firing pin.
One google search turned up this was a common thing with the T/C Compass.
I'll try the CCI primer first, but with the factory loads exhibiting the same I suspect it is the firing pin hole larger than the firing pin.
Easy enough fix, and check.

 

[Sgt_Mike]

Yeah just disassembled the bolt, definitely sloppy fit between the bolt and the firing pin.
Owners Manual
bolt disassembly start on page 30.
Should of interest to @hm1996

 

[ohlongarm]

Just picked one up for a good bit under three bills. When I helped a buddy pick out a suppressor.
I am a little familiar with them, This one is in the 6.5 CM variety, and me with my "supposed" hatred of the caliber by some trolls, yeah right.
There is several things I do like about the rifle without shooting it yet. Three position safety like the later Winchesters, not sure if I really like the three lug bolt yet.
It does seem to run slick (without rounds).
Not sure how I like the rotary mag, some are great some not so much but we will see.
After getting it home the first thing in order was a good barrel cleaning, Hoppes #9, J-B Paste in the throat area. And finally soaking with CLP /Breakfree to loosen any carbon build up.
Bore felt good with jag and patch ( I use this method vs a borescope), which this is actually my preferred method, as I can feel any tight , loose spots. or roughness. Then if they don't shoot I'll then get them scoped. Just the way I do may not be the best, but is my way.
Not having a dedicated scope, I pulled one of the 1.5-4x Leupold's from one of the AR's for a evaluation of it's current state of being. A shooter or not.

So I've really got only two questions.

1. Since I always like to rename the guns I have in the same calibers a bit, or in some cases when I really like them. So when discussing them it keeps them straight. The Remington 700 PCR that some may know I have and posted about in that same caliber I refer to as the "Needsmore" playfully. With it's outsource chassis stock (Cadex Defense) in veil camo, and heavy barrel configuration at 26" it shoots extremely well, bit heavy for lugging around in the woods. But runs great from the bench or ranges. Not the heaviest I own, but a bit much for lugging after vermin. Hence the Light weight of this T/C, which is marked with the S&W logo as well as T/C. Luckily the muzzle was threaded, which is a plus in my book.
What to call this one?

2. This one is not actually important as T/C is known for making good barrels. If I understand my research correctly the barrel shank / tenon is dimensionally the same as a Remington 700 less the bolt nose recess. So a Remage pre-fit barrel is supposed to work, is what I'm understanding. It's not I'm planning on re-barreling this one just wondering what fits in the event I do wish to re-barrel. I'm fully aware the aftermarket accessories is very limited for this make. The question is geared toward me just know if it works that way or not, I'm fairly certain it can be rebarreled if need be. Just basically curious as some may have done this with one.

Besides I seem to like project actions, I keep collecting them.

Thompson is a sleeper in rifles, my TC Venture was about 300, my scope cost 6 times that, but under ideal conditions, 3/8 inch four shots is doable.

 

[hm1996]

n the CM normally the extraction is just as easy as the .308 Win.
It was only the last load I fired was when the Bolt Lift became hard ( Yeah that last load was at the upper end of Sierra's data for the 100gr Varminter bullet MAX = 42.4grs of IMR 4895, I was 0.2 grs under the max.)

Same results I experienced w/308 Norma/300 WM. Heavier loads demonstrated a bit more difficulties w/bolt lift.

But I just looked at the primers and thought huh back off the load. Then I re- looked at the primers again tonight.. not flattened, huh if it was pressure then the primer should be flattened and have a possible flow / crater .... That caused me to look at the factory rounds. Then is when I observed the exact same thing as the Hand loads.

Spot on IMO, Mike. First thing I noticed was the fully rounded corners on primer yet flow around FP. Definitely sloppy fit between FP/bolt.

 

[Sgt_Mike]

I'll run it by Geno, he is one of the local gunsmith's I know.

Only two big issues
1. How will long will it take to do it. (he is really responsive to speed / time, when I bring in simple things like this)
2. Bolt appears to be nitrated, and that stuff is great until you have to machine. that process hardens the daylight out of bolts and barrels.

Plus while the handle is out of the bolt body he can throw a round ball knob on, and laser etch the circle 8 ball logo on.

On a side note "The Load" should be producing between 2950 to 3050 fps according to Sierra's load data with that 100gr Varminter bullet.

Yeah the question wasn't like I said to play "stump the chump" just looking to see if my troubleshooting was spot on, or not.
With enough primer flow / cratering, yes I see where it would cause resistance to bolt lift, especially with the bolt face not "smearing" / swiping the rim face.

Ohh, I almost forgot the three lug bolt design, my only reservations was I've heard / read that they don't run well with AICS magazines. But this stock doesn't really suck, so I'll most likely not re-stock her and the factory magazines run without a hiccup, so that isn't a issue.

Thanks everyone for your input. Only things I have to finalize is scope base replacement, and dedicate a scope to her after the bolt is fixed.