Thinking of reloading shot shells

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Dirt Nap

New member
I'm thinking about getting into reloading for shotguns. I really don't shoot a crazy amount of shot shells but I still think I could save save money, plus I just like reloading! I'm looking into a mec press of some sort. I see a lot of good used ones on backpage. I'm really getting sick of buying loads for coyote hunting. I usually shoot 40-60 with my shotty and its starts to add up.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get into this hobby at a descent price? Am I missing something on the price to reload? Is it true I can reuse the casings? How many times? Also, it seems that the lead shot is the majority of the price. Any suggestions on how and where to buy it?
Thanks for the info!
 
Originally Posted By: Dirt NapI'm thinking about getting into reloading for shotguns. I really don't shoot a crazy amount of shot shells but I still think I could save save money, plus I just like reloading! I'm looking into a mec press of some sort. I see a lot of good used ones on backpage. I'm really getting sick of buying loads for coyote hunting. I usually shoot 40-60 with my shotty and its starts to add up.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get into this hobby at a descent price? Am I missing something on the price to reload? Is it true I can reuse the casings? How many times? Also, it seems that the lead shot is the majority of the price. Any suggestions on how and where to buy it?
Thanks for the info!


Decent price?? In guns and loading?? You gotta be kidding - you need take up needle point.
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I don't think you can save much money loading common shot shells, but maybe if you load big magnums, or load weird stuff that you can't buy.

You should get the Lyman Shot Shell loading book (it is the best around).

Then pick out some loads you would like to do, and price out the components (including shipping on 30 pound bags of shot).

And remember... with rifle or pistol, you can sort the cases, and then load them all with the exact same components - you CANNOT do that with shot shells.

Each different type of case, MUST have a completely different load, with different wads and cups, even if the weight and shot size is the same.

Reading the Lyman manual will give you a good idea of what it's all about.
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I have a Ponsness Warren, and dies for 410, 28ga, 12ga 2-3/4", and 12ga 3".

I load weird stuff that I can't buy.


 
Like Cat It is hard to load for less than you can buy common stuff unless you get really into it, powder in 8# kegs, wads by the case and shot by the ton.

The best prices are either at a local trap club or if there is a lot of trap shooting in your area there is usually someone that specializes in case lot shot shells and components. I have a place called Connies Components out here plus you save on hazmat shipping charges.

I also buy from:

Ballistic Products, ITX shot (soft non-toxic for my old guns), wads for 2.5" 12 & 16ga, 2.5" 12ga hulls and Nickel plated shot.

Precision Reloading, Bismuth & Nice shot (again soft non-toxic for older guns)

Graf & Son 16ga hulls 2.75 and 2.5 inch hulls, they have great shipping rates and oddball stuff. I get my 7x57mm Rimmed and my 9.3x72mm Rimmed ammo there.

I load only for the odd stuff, low pressure 12ga & 16ga for old SXS's both 2.75 and 2.5 inch in lead and non-toxic for lead free areas. I buy all my trap and skeet loads by the case, B&P even has 2.5" light loads and they ship free to your door. Cabelas has a new Herter's line that has 16ga shells at a great price and I order by the case and pick up at the store to save shipping.

The Lyman book is good and Ballistic products has a book called "Advantages" and it has an incredible amount of load info, even has 2" 2.5" and 2 5/8" roll crimp data for European and British guns plus they have pamphlets on roll crimping, fiber wad loads and coyote/self-defence buckshot.

 
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Or you might look around for the latest (not) in shotshell loading tools such as this lightly used (note decapping tool) set.

(Forgot to include the nice brass powder/shot scoop as it temporarily resides in my ML rifle kit.)

I began shotshell loading as a teenager some 60 years ago for an old damascus Remington 12 ga. double that had been in the family for years. This setup is probably why I gave up SS loading shortly thereafter. It did the job, especially w/old paper shells but was very slow, as you can imagine. Guess the old timers had more time than we seem to have today and components were much easier to get, not to mention the fact they were also much cheaper.
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Regards,
hm
 
Any reloading is fun and interesting. Like the others I only load the odd and unusual stuff as the common blaster stuff is just too cheap not to purchase already assembled. If you really want to get started cheap you can start with a lee load-all. It is not a great press but it works and will get you started cheaply.
 
I have a MEC (600 jr.?) press out in the shop collecting dust in a box... If your interested send me a pm and we will talk about fair compensation for it. I might even have some older literature to go with it.
 
The Mec 600 is a nice machine, I have one set up for 2.5 12ga, everybody has accessories for it and it is easy to change shot and powder.
 

I have Mec 600 Jr/Mark 5s in 28, 20, 12, and 10 gauge. If one
doesn't count one's time, reloading shot shells will save
money, provided one finds deals on components(join a trap
club).

But the real advantages to shot shell loading is your favorite
loads are always available, and anything the factory doesn't
make, you can. I buy factory ammo in two situations. One - I
need fresh hulls, or two - I get a discount deal, so hand
loading doesn't save money. I duck hunt, and steel shot is
hard to justify hand loading, when deals are out there. I do
re-use the steel shot hulls, for tungsten alloy hand loads,
and there one can save a decent amount. And for me, shooting
a 10 ga., tungsten alloy loads are hard to find, and those
factory offerings are an insult to 10 gauges.

I find pulling the lever on loaders therapeutic, so there
is an added advantage for me. We have long winters, and
by Spring, I have big storage boxes full of shotgun ammo,
for the Summer trap season, and the Fall hunting seasons.

If you can find the coyote ammo you want to shoot, in factory
offerings, and you shoot 40-50 rounds a year, shot shell
hand loading won't save you money. Just shop for sales and
stock up. But if any of the other reasons, stated above, fit
your situation, by all means get into shot shell loading...It
is addictive.
rolleyes.gif


Squeeze
 
I agree with Squeeze!

You can save money if you buy the components in large quanities from the right places.

I like 12 ga 7/8 oz and 1 oz loads for shooting Sporting Clays, Trap and Skeet. I can't buy these loads any where within 100 miles of my house.

If you buy good shot and wads your reloads will be better shells than the cheap promo loads at Wal-Mart.

Check with Trap or Skeet shooters if you need some 2-3/4" hulls. There are lots of hulls for sale almost every day on Trapshooters.com.

If you buy the Heavyweight 13 Tungsten alloy shot from Bucks Run you can save at least 50% over buying Hevi-Shot factory loads.

Mec 600 Juniors are a great reloader to start out with.
 
I reloaded a bunch of 12 ga 1 oz loads several years ago and did extensive pattern testing in the process. I found that the price was slightly lower but the quality of the pattern was much better. I also reloaded steel shot and had a lot of fun working out a good load and then killing some ducks with it. Nowadays, I'm not sure I can do it cheaper but the good patterns and the confidence that inspires are certainly advantages.
 
I agree you can not save money unless you buy in large quantity. I load all mine but I do use different cases. I use WAA or equivalent cases. This means Wads by the case. I think there are 10 bags of 250 in each one or something like that. Powder by the 8lb keg and order 2 if they will sell it. I buy my primers 10,000 at a time. Shot is a big problem. i usually get one of my kids to buy several bags at a time from someplace like Cabelas. Shipping, Hazmat, and such will eat up your savings quick.


I use a MEC with an adjustable charge bar.
 


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